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Discussion Starter #1
Pulled a plug from a nascar motor today and found the spark plugs have no straps. They claim is due to the vibration causes strap failure . Had me thinking after reading up on it if able to be used in nitrous applications to prevent damage when the strap comes off and goes threw the chamber.
Any one ever run them ????

http://www.circletrack.com/enginetech/ctrp_1108_racing_spark_plugs/photo_02.html
 

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Plugs are the window to the combustion chambers. You would not have a timing mark and it also looks that the porclin is hidden by the ring which would make it impossible to see the fuel ring ...two very important things to a nitrous engine.so I think its safe to say that they are not good plugs for a nitrous engine jmho
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Plugs are the window to the combustion chambers. You would not have a timing mark and it also looks that the porclin is hidden by the ring which would make it impossible to see the fuel ring ...two very important things to a nitrous engine.so I think its safe to say that they are not good plugs for a nitrous engine jmho
The threaded section would just be cut off to read fuel ring but the timing mark is the catch...
 

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NGK BUE plug part # 2322 is a ¾” reach, 13/16” hex surface gap for less than $5.00 at your local parts store, $2.28 from CV Products on this web page http://www.cvproducts.com/Products/NGK-BUE.aspx The picture is wrong in the CV link, this Amazon.com link http://www.amazon.com/NGK-BUE-Traditional-Spark-Plug/dp/B001RMA3XO has the correct picture (below).

The BUE is a true surface gap and is used in some MerCruiser Marine engines and many snowmobiles. I have used them in a BBC with a total of 500HP N2O, fogger and a plate, with a MSD-6AL and the $16.00 Standard FD-478 coil. They worked well but a problem with them is the exterior ceramic insulator is very long, like some of the Rotary engine plugs, and it interferes with header pipes in most applications. The particular engine had no problem with the regular NGK 9 and 10 heat range with the regular side strap and loosening the headers to get the BUE in and out wasn’t worth the hassle.

If your carburetion is too rich on the idle/transition circuit and is already fouling or sooting up regular plugs, these may not work for you.

NGK (2322) BUE Traditional Spark Plug
 

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These plugs will work in a nitrous application and we have several customers running them. Not my place to say who, but they are also very fast for there combo's..

As for "reading" the plugs. This is one of the most debated things in nitrous. What is the look of the ideal plug ??? :confused: Bottom line is there is NOT a one size fits all look for the properly tuned plug !!!!

As I tell many of our customers or potential customers that's one of the things that's another advantage of having a flowed system and our tech help. We give you a baseline we know is close and I work very close with my customers on there timing numbers per there application as well as the weather they are racing in.

Back to the plug, as stated many have trouble reading a plug. so when given a base line that's very close to start with if you basically just watch ET and MPH and make small changes from the start the numbers will tell you more then anything. The plug and what YOUR plug should look like is in my opinion something you have to learn for YOUR combo and results. Hope this all make sense.. SJ
 

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Discussion Starter #16
These plugs will work in a nitrous application and we have several customers running them. Not my place to say who, but they are also very fast for there combo's..

As for "reading" the plugs. This is one of the most debated things in nitrous. What is the look of the ideal plug ??? :confused: Bottom line is there is NOT a one size fits all look for the properly tuned plug !!!!

As I tell many of our customers or potential customers that's one of the things that's another advantage of having a flowed system and our tech help. We give you a baseline we know is close and I work very close with my customers on there timing numbers per there application as well as the weather they are racing in.

Back to the plug, as stated many have trouble reading a plug. so when given a base line that's very close to start with if you basically just watch ET and MPH and make small changes from the start the numbers will tell you more then anything. The plug and what YOUR plug should look like is in my opinion something you have to learn for YOUR combo and results. Hope this all make sense.. SJ
Sure does Steve and as always thanks for the input... and Yes I saw them in a fast SJ tuned car so I had to get researching. Thats the part of my OP I left out..lol... Thanks Tony
 

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Steve ,
Just go head and tell them the truth. The strap is the first line of defence. And a great indicater of overall tempeture. But it's time to tell them the true measuring stick .. :smt039
 
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