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Just another off the wall thought. On staggering the rings, which I do as well. My thoughts are with a 2 ring setup, there is no stagger. And with a 3 ring, if the concern is both gaps being in line, will cause severe leakage, has anyone given thought to the fact that all that pressure can’t travel 180 degrees, and find the other gap?
I think it really wouldn’t matter much, in a well prepared block, as a well prepared 2 ring doesn’t have any real problems at all. So, is it just an old wives tale? Plus, they all spin constantly. Serious question.
 

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pressure between the rings is pressure, so lined up or not, the pressure is traveling to the easiest path.
I stagger rings as well, because why not it cant hurt..lol. but honestly they are constantly moving, so im sure there are times throughout the cycles they are lined up, and it really doesnt matter imo.
 

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pressure between the rings is pressure, so lined up or not, the pressure is traveling to the easiest path.
I stagger rings as well, because why not it cant hurt..lol. but honestly they are constantly moving, so im sure there are times throughout the cycles they are lined up, and it really doesnt matter imo.
Thank you.
 

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Way back our gaps always ended up towards the bottom when we disassembled our comp engine for whatever reason. We would assemble them staggered to feel better I guess :LOL:
Very true. Thanks. My first clue was the 4 or 5, 2 ring engines I ran that operated flawlessly. Never got a true 20” vac with them, but did hit 19.67” with one, all wet sump stuff. Never ran faster, but never ran slower with them either.
 

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Another off the wall idea of mine. Could a guy build a carburetor/scoop pan, that’s say 3” thick, with several fins, with a door in the top, and fill it with dry ice, shut the trap sealed door, set it on the carburetors, sealed to the hood scoop, and draw super cold air into the carburetors while going down the track? Yes, or no.
 

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Another off the wall idea of mine. Could a guy build a carburetor/scoop pan, that’s say 3” thick, with several fins, with a door in the top, and fill it with dry ice, shut the trap sealed door, set it on the carburetors, sealed to the hood scoop, and draw super cold air into the carburetors while going down the track? Yes, or no.
It would be far easier and more effective to just spray water/meth with ice in the tank.
 

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Another off the wall idea of mine. Could a guy build a carburetor/scoop pan, that’s say 3” thick, with several fins, with a door in the top, and fill it with dry ice, shut the trap sealed door, set it on the carburetors, sealed to the hood scoop, and draw super cold air into the carburetors while going down the track? Yes, or no.
Instead of dry ice I would be using solid N2O. It would provide cooling as well as N20 vapor. :)
 

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Another off the wall idea of mine. Could a guy build a carburetor/scoop pan, that’s say 3” thick, with several fins, with a door in the top, and fill it with dry ice, shut the trap sealed door, set it on the carburetors, sealed to the hood scoop, and draw super cold air into the carburetors while going down the track? Yes, or no.


[/you could remove the scoop /carb tray . Take it into the trailer and replenish said cooling aids and no one would be the wiser .. I like it .
 

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True. Has anyone ever tried it? The reason I ask is because locally we did a test by filling one we made and sealed with regular ice, and the second we put it on in 100 degree air, the engine idled up about 200 rpm’s. But, in the run, it had so much condensation, it was sucking some moisture to the point it missed a bit. Never experimented again. But I feel there’s a lot there done properly.
 
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