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What is the recommended process for sealing up glass where the gel coat was removed? I have a VFN pin on hood that was cut to fit. The edges where it was cut is raw glass now as is where i drilled holes for the Dzus fasteners.

Should I mix up fiberglass resin and brush it on the edges?

Also there are a couple small spots where the gel coat was very thin and I went through that in initial sanding.

I read that solvent should not be used to prep prior to first coat of primer but rather just a hot soapy water wash because the solvent will penetrate the pores?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Here are a couple pictures. thank you.



 

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Fiberglass resin will work, but is a bit messy and it's hard to tell if it did the trick until it fully cures and you sand it smooth. Another method is using polyester putty. Icing is a common brand. It takes regular cream hardener like plastic filler uses, dries quickly, is easy to sand, and is formulated to use over bare metal, plastic fillers, fiberglass, and cured OEM finishes.
 

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What I would do is block sand the hood, then apply a spray polyester primer. 2 coats of that followed by 2 coats of a 2k primer.

Is the hood straight enough for your liking?
 

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Fiberglass resin will work, but is a bit messy and it's hard to tell if it did the trick until it fully cures and you sand it smooth. Another method is using polyester putty. Icing is a common brand. It takes regular cream hardener like plastic filler uses, dries quickly, is easy to sand, and is formulated to use over bare metal, plastic fillers, fiberglass, and cured OEM finishes.
I have icing and have used it before, didn't think of it for this instance.

What I would do is block sand the hood, then apply a spray polyester primer. 2 coats of that followed by 2 coats of a 2k primer.

Is the hood straight enough for your liking?
It is about as straight as a piece of cooked lasagna....I'm not sure two coats of polyester will get it there.
 

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Wow, that was one long hood. Bitchin car, would love to see a build thread. beautiful . I just prime till its acceptable.
 

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is the hood made long???? then you trim to fit your application???
It was made for there extended "pro mod" front end so it needed trimmed to work with stock fenders. It was the only hood I could find that I thought was high enough to clear the engine and would allow me to get the hood back tight to the windshield.
 

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I have icing and have used it before, didn't think of it for this instance.



It is about as straight as a piece of cooked lasagna....I'm not sure two coats of polyester will get it there.
I was going to suggest spray poly if you had mentioned wanting to straighten out the entire hood but, you only seemed to be concerned with the raw edges and a couple of break throughs in the gel coat.

Icing will do the job if that's all you are concerned with.
 

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I have icing and have used it before, didn't think of it for this instance.
It is about as straight as a piece of cooked lasagna....I'm not sure two coats of polyester will get it there.
Hahaha! Spies polyester will fill 100 mils. I don't think that will straighten cooked lasagna!
 

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I was going to suggest spray poly if you had mentioned wanting to straighten out the entire hood but, you only seemed to be concerned with the raw edges and a couple of break throughs in the gel coat.

Icing will do the job if that's all you are concerned with.
Sorry I wasn't clear, I planned on poly and a bunch of time to try and make it straight. I just wasn't sure if I needed to do something else to seal up the raw glass.
 

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Sorry I wasn't clear, I planned on poly and a bunch of time to try and make it straight. I just wasn't sure if I needed to do something else to seal up the raw glass.
Oh, ok ....now I understand. Nope, nothing is needed other than the spray poly. You should be good to go with just that.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the help guys. First coat of poly and guide coat was pretty ugly.


Ended up with about 3 coats of poly and quite a bit of icing but I think it will come out well in color. Biggest part of hood will be matte black so I got some forgiveness.



 

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Looks great. Don't worry, one coat of spray poly will very rarely be enough to straighten out anything. It's not made to work in one coat, it's made to take the place of spreadable putties like Icing, but it sands easier because of the smooth application and the lack of spreader marks.
 

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That looks pretty typical of most fiberglass hoods. Nice job so far.
When sanding the radius' try to sand at 45 degrees with a block.
I have worked part time in a fiberglass shop for around 20 years. If we had a mold that produced a part like that it would get thrown out the back door of the shop.
 

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Which shop?
How many have you personally blocked after they sat around for 6 months?
I have blocked a to many to count, but what do I know? Good quality products don't fuck up after 6 months. I have only been working glass 20 years and the man that taught me has been since 1970 and built boat molds for a living.
 

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I have blocked a to many to count, but what do I know? Good quality products don't fuck up after 6 months. I have only been working glass 20 years and the man that taught me has been since 1970 and built boat molds for a living.
Small parts are generally released from the mold quickly in order to turn the mold quickly. Depending on how the part is stored, stacked, temp, humidity, etc distorts the part. This in not news to you though. I am not trying to argue with you. But in my opinion fiberglass parts these days from most vendors are pretty shitty in general.

Last month I took a small pressure washer to a popular hinged mustang hood and every radius of the bottom support structure was pretty much gone due to air pockets from poor layup.

I have old pictures of me standing next to the original Batman Boat mold in 1967. I am also pretty familiar with fiberglass.

What Companies did you work for? I may know the person who taught you as the number of marine plug/mold makers working in the 70s and 80s is a rather small group. Do you know if he worked for any of the below?

I worked for Glastron, Hammond, Larson, Silverline, Morgan, Donzai, Century, Regal and a few other smaller companies.

Have you ever worked with Suncoast parts?
 
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