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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Posted about new build in ls section and possible issue with converter slip was brought up. Most likely I did something wrong.
Car is a fox around 2800#
5.3 ls with cam and carb, 400-450hp?
Glide that I built, first one, followed the carl monroe book for most part.
5 frictions forward and reverse
All new seals and bushings
Dual ring servo and heavy spring
Used transgo kit to make it manual and pressure spring from that kit, also put old vacuum modulator on, not hooked up
Fresh 8" 5500 converter
pressure readings
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Yep. They are the pressures the trans go spring gives you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Is it normal to have that much difference between high and low and should I put a heavier spring in it? I think he said converter slip was around 19%, possible trans slipping a bit in high with that pressure? Fluid looks and smells new.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes teflon, sonnax servo piston, used the sonnax green spring, says for 200+ psi. I'm nowhere near that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
No street, drag only, has two 1/8 passes three 1/4. Was all new this year. Graph from a 11.38/120mph run. Second line should be close to where crossed the stripe, 28" tire 3.73 gear. Hit rev limiter a bit at shift.
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You may have a leak or the mod valve in the vb could be regulating. Next is, what is reverse pressure? I would think out of control. You need to buy or make a proper valve body.


Hutch
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Didn't think to check reverse pressure. Any chance putting the old vacuum modulator on and capping the vacuum port could be causing this?
 

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Kit is designed to use the mod to control the pressure. No mod will get you high reverse pressure and some cutback in high gear regardless.


Hutch
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Trans had rear pump which was removed, drilled the hole for transbrake vb if we decide to put one in later. Used aluminum governor plate with bearing.
Drilled the two holes in separater plate according to kit.
Left both check valves out, since now front pump only.
Going to pull vb, if nothing looks obviously wrong will replace it with one already built.
 

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Mod valve has to be pushed firmly into the vb with max. 030" endplay. You can just put a longer pin in your mod and feel when the mod valve screws in snug then try low/ high but do not try reverse.

If that helps forward pressures, we then need to pull the vb and fix the boost valve.


Hutch
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the help and information.
Pulled vb, everything was clean and in proper places, went over everything several times. Lack the patience to put it in and possibly have to take back out without seeing the issue and knowing it's fixed.
Put a tci manual vb in and pressure is much better. Still need to check cooler line pressure. Have more needle bounce on gauge now.
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