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It's nice to see someone that stands behind his product like that. No avoiding phone calls or excuse after excuse because the product hasn't shipped. Thats customer service! Those coolers have definately come a long way since the first one you built, you definately have a top shelf product to be proud of!
JG
 

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It matches my car I will take one....Great looking piece!!!
Dial the digits and I'll be happy to build you one. We do stand behind these 100%. We test every piece before it ships and keep parts in stock in the unlikely event something does break. We've ship to Canada, Australia, the UK, and all over Europe so far and I stand behind those coolers just the same as the ones next door.

Yea Jason they have evolved and are still evolving constantly. Those pictures are several units ago the newest ones are slicker and tricker yet. Every customer gets the same high quality and unmatched customer service if you're just starting out or you're my latest customer Randy Bryan or as well known as Donald Walsh and World Champion Mike Murillo you get the same treatment and product as the biggest names in the business get. Thanks for the compliments it's always nice when people notice your hard work.
 

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With ICE you can bring the ATF temp down below outside temp.. On a 90 deg day can your system with out ice bring the ATF temp below 90 degs?

Thanks!
Let me explain......

With ice there's many other problems to consider. First off the optimal temp for your transmission never needs to be below 90 degrees. Now for the problems with ice. Ice can chill the fluid far too cold if forgot about and left unattended. The rapid chilling of the fluid will also cause condensation inside the transmission which is a very bad thing as well. The ice and water situation in your pit is a pain in the butt to deal with and requires constant attention to keep working. What happens when you go to the tower for ice and they don't have any and your cooler won't work without it? Ice has more draw backs than it has pluses in fact it's nearly all draw backs when you consider there's no requirement for the fluid getting any colder than ambient at any point. Our unit will cool 15 quarts of 50 wt oil from 300 degrees to ambient which is 70 in my shop in 18 minutes flat every time! I test every unit this way before it ships.

Just ask my customer Donald Walsh why he lost last year at Bristol. He was given an ice cooler by my competition to try and they substituted it in place of our at Bristol. He should have won Bristol if anyone remembers but the reason he didn't was the cooler was left unattended during the mad scramble in the pits to ready the car for the finals and it turned the fluid into taffy TRUE STORY! Of course no one knew this until they fired the car and the transmission acted like it was in Alberta Canada in the dead of winter! I got a call the following week from Justin Haddon telling me all about what they had done because like normal I had sent an email congratulating them on their performance that weekend and ask how my cooler was preforming for them. They replaced that unit with our unit which they had been using since Houston and went on to win the next NHRA event and have many more round wins as well as event wins using. A valuable lesson re-learned-----------------> If it's not broken DON'T FIX IT!! But the promise of even better performance makes us all do things we wish we hadn't and I understood that they had to try to realize they already had the best solution to the problem all along...

I promise you if ice was the way to go I would build an ice unit. I have considered building an ice unit because some customers just think it's the way to go. But I decided I would be building and selling something I do not believe in and why fix something that's not broken when we already have the best cooler that's on the market. I would rather explain to the customer that thinks he needs an ice unit why he doesn't need or want one instead of selling him something he don't need just to make the sell.
 

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Will you have any in/ at SGMP next weekend??
 

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Will you have any in/ at SGMP next weekend??
No unfortunately I'll not be attending Duck's party next weekend. These are all made to order it takes about 2 weeks to get one at this time. If I can get caught up enough to build up some extra frames I could cut that to a week but that's not looking good to happen for a while. There will be a few around the pits of customers I'm sure.
 

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Do you included hose from cooler to car with Quick disconnect fittings?

Is the temp gauge sensor before the coolers? Pre and post would be cool.

What type of filter is that?

Will run off 110v 15amps just fine?

Thanks!
 

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Do you included hose from cooler to car with Quick disconnect fittings?

Is the temp gauge sensor before the coolers? Pre and post would be cool.

What type of filter is that?

Will run off 110v 15amps just fine?

Thanks!
Yes hoses are included as well as series 3000 Jiffy-Tite quick connectors. Sorry if that wasn't clear. I forget that the pictures from the past aren't here now where they were shown.

The temp gauge is situated in the suction line of the cooler so that it shows the true temp of the fluid inside your transmission prior to the cooling cycle. I can build you one with both sides monitored but it's really not necessary you can see the one gauge dropping like a rock already. I monitor both sides in my shop on my test stand but that's just for me to check the efficiency of every unit compared to my base line to be sure every unit is exactly the same. I also monitor pressure on my test stand as well as amp draw of every component to assure that each of them are 100% healthy and not drawing excessive amps and if they are the pressure gauge will tell me if there's a blockage that's causing it somewhere inside the cores that I have no control over other than replacing the core. To date that hasn't happened.

The filter is a standards V8 Ford size filter that uses their 3/4" thread they have used forever. They are available for replacement from any parts store. I use a very high quality Mobile 1 brand for it's superior surface area and reduced restriction. Nothing but the best parts all the way down to the filter. What you don't see and haven't ask about is the Pre-Pump strainer that's also included and used on all my units to prevent foreign objects from being injested and damaging the pump. Nothing has been over looked.

Yes this will run on that much power and in fact a lot less. These typically pull between 3 and 4 amps of 110/120 VAC. ( 240 VAC units are offered for Australian & European customers ) They use that to supply the 100 amp DC power supply used to power the components. Of that available 100 amps this cooler only uses between 32 & 33 of those to operate. The remaining is yours to do with as you see fit. You can power your water pump in the pits or any other device that needs 12 VDC power to run within your trailer or on the race car. I'm going to provide you a link now that shows a very nice item sold by Tim Mcamis Race Cars to charge battries. This product that they sell is 55 amps and would be considered top of the line in quality. My cooler has an addition 70 amps of power at your disposal that will do the EXACT same duties as the unit in the link ( http://timmcamis.com/Store/index.ph..._id=65&zenid=19944bee298223491ea897939a07d55c ) All of this has been included in our design so you can cool your transmission and charge your batteries all at the same time with the same unit making it no longer necessary to carry additional stuff in your trailer. Space is a concern for everyone no matter how large your trailer is you need more space. We have kept that in mind while designing this package and kept it's foot print as small as possible as well. These require a spot 25" long and 14" wide x 21" tall to house inside your hauler.

As you can see I enjoy answering any question anyone wants to ask about these units. That's because there's nothing you can ask that I will be ashamed of the answer to. These are literally built with the best parts that can be sourced. I intend for them to last.
 

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You can use it to charge a 12v batt.. Not a 16v correct?

Killer looking system you have there! The only thing I see is with the filter being on it side could be mess to change?

Thanks
 

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Well I guess when changing the filter.. You can just flip the system up on it's end and spin the filter off.. NO mess
 

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Well I guess when changing the filter.. You can just flip the system up on it's end and spin the filter off.. NO mess
Ding ding ding!!!!! Give that man a cigar!! Yea that exactly how it's done with exactly no mess. The packaging takes over at some point and mandates trade offs. How often will you need to actually change it out? Unless you hurt parts on a regular basis not often at all.

As for the 12 volt and 16 volt question. I want to answer that question with a question. Why do you think you need 16 volt batteries? I ask my customers this same question when they get stuck on 16 volts. The reason for 16 volts was always the starter in the first place right? With everything today having an ECU that really likes 12 Volts you should be stepping the voltage down already for that. After the starter is removed the need for 16 volts disappears. Now how about this instead why not two 12 volt batteries tied together on the starting circuit only to produce 24 volts to spin that starter even faster and 12 volts everywhere else? Best of both worlds and don't require you to buy a special 16 volt charger that are expensive and hard to find when you're racing and your's takes a dump but a 12 volt can be had from anywhere. With the Li battery packs that are available today that weigh nothing running two 12 volt batteries is no longer a weight issue. However the 16 volt crowd are tough customer and I'm working with my supplier to build a 16 volt unit which actually needs to be 18 volts to properly charge a 16 volt battery in a reasonable amount of time I'm told. My next task will be doing destructive testing a unit to find out where the fail point is for excessive voltage of these components. Setting it up to be a charger requires me to add a terminal strip and a bit more wiring PITA which I have to charge a small amount extra to do but it can be done and this thing is a 3 stage charger that can be found on the highest end motor coaches made. I'm glad I could answer your questions I hope to your satisfaction.
 

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I want to buy a 110volt pump for my trans cooler. Do you guys know where I can buy one? My last cooler I built had a 12 volt turbo oil scavange pump on it and worked well but I sold that setup to a buddy. I don't want to use a AC/DC converter if I don't have to.
 

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I want to buy a 110volt pump for my trans cooler. Do you guys know where I can buy one? My last cooler I built had a 12 volt turbo oil scavange pump on it and worked well but I sold that setup to a buddy. I don't want to use a AC/DC converter if I don't have to.
northern tool
 

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Cool product. I was looking at the ati in car cooler for between passes setup a while back. This is a prettt cool product as I want nothing to do with dealing with the ice mess myself.
 

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I bought a cooler from Kool Solutions recently and Ive got to say, it is one great product.
It averages the first 100 degree drop in about 20 minutes. We've weatched it for a while and still get a kick out of it.
Not saying others dont work, this is the only I used, but this one does its job (and then some).
my .02,
Scott
 
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