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Discussion Starter #22
My numbers on the yoke that is already with a 3° shim. Now should i the yoke on rearend go up +3 more? Plus the 3° shim i have in it? Then i will be at -4?
 

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Look at the parts in bold print. Where are you getting that I'm using the ground as my zero?

He is at -3.4° at his trans input shaft.

If his pinion was pointing at +3.4° he would be at zero.

To get to -4° he's going to have to lower the pinion down 4° from the +3.4°. +3.4 minus 4 = -.6

To get to -5° he's going to have to lower the pinion down 5° from the +3.4°. +3.4 minus 5 = -1.6


If I was basing it on the ground I would have told him to point the pinion down to -4° or -5°




Jeff
That's where we differ. When you put your pinion at theoretical zero.........I call that zero, then drop the desired amount of -4*. Less math, less confusing, but the same end result either way. Carry on sir.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Superstockam i will do. I am hoping to get it with in caltrac standards. I would think all i have to do it spin the rearend yoke up towards the car from my -7 to -4 ccorrect?
 

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So to be at -2 ( which I THOUGHT caltracs want ) your pinion would need to be at +1.5 ?

That would mean you would have to move the pinion up 8.5 degrees . Or 7.5 if you want -3 .

Or am I missing something ?????

Thats a lot of shim .....lol

If Im right , you need to cut the perches off and start over .

am I missing something . :smt102
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Turbo TA. I am running Calvert split monos with 1 inch drop, cj sliders and caltracs. Boostbowtie. Yes I am thinking i am cutting over perches. But i am lost again! You said i would need pinion +1.5?
 

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did you figure out what your going to do?

im at the point now where i need to do the same. set the perches in place. im running assasin bars, caltrac split momo's, and there sliders. but all the shops around me have a 3 week hold time and i have a race locked in Aug 17.

i was going to set my pinion -3 degrees lower than that of the driveline angle, thats pretty much what im hearing.

nice 74 btw
 

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Last year when I spoke with Calvert's tech, they suggested -3 to -2. But last month when I spoke to them, they feel that u can use up to -5 if your springs are not stiff enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Thank you! Well if i am getting this right. I will have perches cut off and move them up +6. So my rearend will still be facing down -4. Because i want it to be -4 sounds like and i am -7 and that is with a 3° wedge already in.
 

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Forget about your current pinion angle, your just confusing yourself with all this numbers. I would cut the perch, put an angle finder in the front pinion and position the rearend with the perch ready to be tack weld. Then point down your pinion yoke to-4 and make sure your driveshaft line up with the yoke. Then tack weld them and then finish welding them. Make sure you use a good perch as some cheaper ones bend on high hp car. GL
 

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Boosted, Good pic to show the centerline relationship. Trans centerline parallel to pinion centerline under load. What is the recommended driveshaft operating angle, unloaded and loaded? <+3 (front of shaft higher than rear)
 
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