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In general does the pan hard setup allow a lot of body roll and a diagonal link acts similar to an ARB? I drive on the street alot and briefly tried a diagonal link. The car felt unsteady at speed and I broke a driveshaft the first track visit and never went back. Went back to the panhard for drive-ability. But it doesn't lift the front end evenly at all. Now I'm back on the quest for a better hooking setup. Debating giving the diagonal link another shot. Opinions?

Current best is 1 1.3x 60'. Cars running 8.80s @ 158 around 3000lbs. Launches





 

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My car is ladder bar and I run a diagonal link keeps the rear in position all through the suspension travel. No need for an anti roll bar with ladder bar set up. Its basically a giant anti roll bar.
 

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Your panard bar needs to be level with the ground at ride height, but the issue is as ride height changes, the bar becomes shorter, moving the rear around. I'd use a wishbone. Or, build your self an X diagonal link
 

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Ladder setups typically act as their own anti-roll bar, but yours are so close together that they are allowing quite a bit of body roll. Also your panhard bar is too short, too high, and has too much angle. Are your front coils still pre-loaded at full extension? Depending on how much spring preload there is, that can really upset the car when one front tire lifts off before the other.

Personally I would rather have a torque arm or 3 link if the car is street driven. The articulation makes the car far safer/easier to drive if it gets out of shape, especially if you have a spool. My '85 RX-7 has a torque arm and slightly pre-loaded Crown Vic sway bar attached to the housing, front coils set up so that are not loaded as the suspension tops out. From the driver's seat you can't even tell when the front tires come off the ground or settle back down, car goes straight as can be with about the same body roll as yours. 1.30 60's with stick shift/3.73/TruTrac/275 radials/nitrous, dead hooks 5500 launch on zero prep asphalt with a short dry burnout. No fancy shocks, just re-worked stock shocks/struts up front and KYB AGX in the rear. Front springs are a set of stock rear springs (101lb/in) that are adapted to the stock struts with adjustable seats and fabricated upper perch. Rear springs are also a set of stock rear springs (101lb/in), lots of extension travel and shimmed stock style bump stops. Great street manners.

Grant
 

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My vote would be for a wishbone too, and an arb. Theres still some roll slop that an arb will take care of and in my opinion take some stress off the front rod ends
 
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