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Discussion Starter #1
Have wiped out the high clutch atleast 3 times and it welds them up. For awhile I was thinking either pressure problem or needed more clutch, I'm using an Alto 8 pack.

Testing a new e-boost controller on the t-brake yesterday, had it @ 5500 and 16lbs maybe 4 or 5 times but the temps stayed under 200 with the water-cooled trans cooler. Anyway, I've got no reverse or low and it moves forward in Neutral and high. I assume it's welded them up again.

My guess is it's either leaking to the high clutch or not enough clearance. I didn't record the measurement but, I believe it was somewhere between .090 and .100. Should it be wider? It's a Dedenbear case w/ teflon seals (new with only 4 passes on seals and clutches) and worked flawlessly during the runs.
 

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First I would look @ the shifter

Possible adjustment prob.

Make sure that when the shifter is in High gear,even with you hand still on it pushing forward it does not try to neutral.

I always adjust them so Low , High & Neutral are right on

On an 8 pack high gear I run .070 to .080
 

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You may have welded up the clutch again or smashed the planetary while spooling.
After going through Tuff Guys check list and verifying correct dipstick calibration ,I would look at the pump stator tube, it may have moved and generated a leak to and from high clutch. Clearance sounds acceptable its a rule of thumb .010"/clutch.
Hope this helps ,Hutch
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys,

I will reconfirm the adjustment is correct. In the past I had spun the stator tube and had a severe problem then. It was replaced and we then welded it in place.

As I mentioned, I'm only 4 passes in from a freshen up, I noticed the sun gear had started to twist the splines in the flange abit. I welded it in place and confirmed there was no runout issue. Could this be an indicator of a problem? Possibly related to my other issue? I'll double check total inside clearance but, I'm sure I was good there.
 

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Is it that the sun gear started to get loose in the flange gear splines? If so this sometimes happens and is not really a problem that a tack weld won't fix. If its a helical spline flange plate the sun gear will be trying to tighten towards the flange plate on accel which won't affect gear train endplay. I like to make sure they don't move ,so a tack weld is a good idea.

Take care ,Hutch
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hey guys,

I think I found the issue. I made three passes on a new set of clutches and tore everything apart. All the clutches looked fine except the lowest one had the teeth rolled down. The hub doesn't quite drop deep enough to hold it. I assume, the failure happens when the teeth roll enough to allow the clutch to rotate and hang up on the hub.

Either way, I'll be switching to a deeper hub designed for the 10 clutch aftermarket drum. I was told this can be used in the stock drum if the piston is machined for clearance. Has anyone experienced an issue like this before? I'm using an 8 clutch thin pack w/ .100 clearance.
 

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You will need to be careful that there is enough clearence between the bottom of the deep hub & the piston when in the applied position.

I like to take .125 off the bottom of the deep hubs when useing them on stock drums.

Also make sure the bottom steel does not drop below the lugs in the bottom of the drum

Good Luck
 

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Some of the extra long hubs were made to work with a billet piston only. When you combine them with standard pistons they have some clearance problems that need attention.

You could also replace the lowest steel with a thicker one to get the clutch engaged furthur onto the hub and reduce your clutch clearance to .070 to .080".
That will work just fine with 8 plates. If your piston is machined that far in a stock drum to get 8 plates in, you better make sure you aren't ready to have the bottom steel drop under the inside edge of the drum slots.

Take care , Hutch
 
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