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Discussion Starter #1
I have seen several threads on over drives but no one ever says what they are spending on their stuff. So what am I looking at costs on these options? What is a Gear Vender run? If starting from scratch and need trans and convertor what about the 4l80 including electronics to operate it? I am thinking the 700R4 maybe the best option as far as cost and what I am looking for. I want to be able to drive the thing anywhere including long raod trips. Its going into a 68 Chevelle with a mild 496 and a 12 bolt, full interior. I am not going to be racing this car but driving the wheels off it.
 

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How much power might you want to put through it?

4L80 > 200-4R > other options..... You might be in a good power range that I'd be ok with picking the 200-4r, can save a bit by not having to run a controller (or can set the 4l80E up with manual shift but that's $$$ too....)

4L80 if you're going to throw a ton of power at it.
 

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I have seen several threads on over drives but no one ever says what they are spending on their stuff. So what am I looking at costs on these options? What is a Gear Vender run? If starting from scratch and need trans and convertor what about the 4l80 including electronics to operate it? I am thinking the 700R4 maybe the best option as far as cost and what I am looking for. I want to be able to drive the thing anywhere including long raod trips. Its going into a 68 Chevelle with a mild 496 and a 12 bolt, full interior. I am not going to be racing this car but driving the wheels off it.
Do the gear vender they are about 2500 they will take any amount of HP plus if you want to sell your car you can pull the gear vender out and use it on another car.
 

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Gear Vendors units are not "American" they are made 40 miles from me, in SHEFFIELD, UK;) . They will handle 1000hp+. GV only make the adaptor kits. IIRC.
A good all round product. IMO
 

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Discussion Starter #9
How much power might you want to put through it?

4L80 > 200-4R > other options..... You might be in a good power range that I'd be ok with picking the 200-4r, can save a bit by not having to run a controller (or can set the 4l80E up with manual shift but that's $$$ too....)

4L80 if you're going to throw a ton of power at it.
only going to put a mild 496 so maybe 600-650 max
 

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My best recommendation would be to install a 4L80E. A bulletproof build would run you around $1,800 - $2,000 depending on what hard parts you wanted to upgrade. A stand alone controller / computer runs about $600 with the bells and whistles. The thing I don't cre for when discussing a Gear Vendors unit is the fact that indeed you gain overdrive ratios, however you do not gain the advantage of a converter lock up feature. On long cruises with say a 2,800 - 3,400 stall torque converter it will tend to generate some heat.

The transmission wouldn't need many upgrades as it is stout at it sits in stock trim. I would recommend a steel forward clutch hub as the stock hub is a cast steel part, they can be fragile. And then maybe replace the main shaft if you're worried about it failing. Those parts would run around $450 or so.

Hope that helps!

g
 

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A friend of mine runs a manual valve body 4l80e from TCI, he had his set up with a trans brake, runs a a 502 with afr heads in a 67 chevelle, it has been a great trans, and has a lock converter, almost feels like a fish gear, or more like 4.5. It cost him some coin, as it was a few years ago he had it built. My brother put a monster 700 behind a mild 327 with shitty gearing in his lifted K5 on 38s, he ran it for three or more years no problems, sold the rig. He just bought another 700 from monster for his 2nd K5, he will be running a little less hp, still a bbc, but monster did not try to sell him one of there 4L80, insisting that the 700 will hold. I purchased a 4L80 from Jakes trans in Texas, with the trans, converter, and electronics IIRC it was about 3600 shipped. The electronics are pretty sweet, and will allow you to have two trans "tunes" you can wire the "TCU" to a toggle switch, and flip from street shift to race shift on the fly, pretty cool I thought for a street car, especially if you were to hook a electronic boost controller to that same switch. Well that is my idea any way, from low boost easy shifting, to what my dollars allow for of a kill mode....
 

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My best recommendation would be to install a 4L80E. A bulletproof build would run you around $1,800 - $2,000 depending on what hard parts you wanted to upgrade. A stand alone controller / computer runs about $600 with the bells and whistles. The thing I don't cre for when discussing a Gear Vendors unit is the fact that indeed you gain overdrive ratios, however you do not gain the advantage of a converter lock up feature. On long cruises with say a 2,800 - 3,400 stall torque converter it will tend to generate some heat.

The transmission wouldn't need many upgrades as it is stout at it sits in stock trim. I would recommend a steel forward clutch hub as the stock hub is a cast steel part, they can be fragile. And then maybe replace the main shaft if you're worried about it failing. Those parts would run around $450 or so.

Hope that helps!

g
X2

I wasted a lot of money years ago on a 700R4 with a 388. I don't care what anyone says, don't waste your money on one with a BBC. I have a 80E with my Turbo LS now with a lot of good parts.

Either pay the $ to do it right, or don't do it. We've had stock 80E's with 550 HP BB's where I work, take a huge beating for a long time. I wouldn't consider another option for a BBC.
 

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The nice thing about the 4L80E with a stand alone controller is you can dial in the shift points and how hard it hits. I know with the 700R4's you can get a better gear change from 1st to 2nd<it is a big jump stock>,but I don't know if the aftermarket offers the same thing for the 4L80E's.
 

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Most people get themselves in trouble using 700R4's by not knowing how to correctly adjust the TV cable. It will ruin even a stock set-up if not done right.TCI has make that not as critical by offering their constant pressure valve body where the TV cable becomes only a passing kick down. The cheap way was a .005 boost valve,Trans To Go valve body mod and a vett servo. Also because those 700R4's where used behind 4.3 V6's and V8's,the better choice is to be sure you get a V8 version because they have better clutches. To do those the right way,you would need TCI's sun gear,their servo,and their constant pressure valve body.

This is a picture of why you would want to buy the TCI sun gear and how the stock one breaks.




No first or reverse,likely this is what happened.
 

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Most people get themselves in trouble using 700R4's by not knowing how to correctly adjust the TV cable. It will ruin even a stock set-up if not done right.TCI has make that not as critical by offering their constant pressure valve body where the TV cable becomes only a passing kick down. The cheap way was a .005 boost valve,Trans To Go valve body mod and a vett servo. Also because those 700R4's where used behind 4.3 V6's and V8's,the better choice is to be sure you get a V8 version because they have better clutches. To do those the right way,you would need TCI's sun gear,their servo,and their constant pressure valve body.

This is a picture of why you would want to buy the TCI sun gear and how the stock one breaks.




No first or reverse,likely this is what happened.
That replacement sungear is not manufactured by TCI, unless they have begun to make one I am not aware of. The most widely used shell is manufactured by SAP. And it's trade name is "The Beast". It can be purchased with a roller bearing kit that makes it very stable in high rpm combinations.

And yes, a 700r4 can be built to take a punishment and live. But it was designed as a medium duty transmission from day one. Personally, I would not install one behind a big block in any vehicle. It will become a high maintenance proposition in time. Many many many of my customes remove them in favor of the 80e.

in fact, many builders i know have quit building them in performance applications / street machines.

Your mileage may vary! :)

g
 

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I totally agree with you.The 80E is the way to fly.
 

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Been running a 700R4 for years now without an issue. Just have it built right, by a guy that knows what they're doing, and keep it cool. If your tranny guy bashes them or tries to steer you towards the 2004R, move on to a guy that knows his shit.
 

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Tremec TKO and don't look back
NOTHING beats having gears in a fun street car
i did the tko swap in 98 and was the best thing i ever did to the car
mine is just a tko3550, so the newer ones are even better
plenty of full swap kits available too
 

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Another thing people who mention the GV unit fail to mention is you still have a transmission to build!
 
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