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Discussion Starter #1
I'm building an 8.50 cage for my truck, and it's my first time building a cage. I just finished bending and notching the a-pillar bars, and I wanted to get some opinions from others on the fit. They're spaced out a bit from the actual pillars, and I'm not sure if this much spacing is common, or if it just looks goofy. I'm not sure right now if I just want to leave them as is, or redo them. What would you do if it was your cage?

If I redo them, I think I'd make the dash bar intersect the front bars and weld it to the cab. If you run the dash bar like that, do the upper and lower half of the pillar bars need to be coincident where they weld to the dash bar? Is it ok to offset them and push the top half of the pillar bar out a bit?





 

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With the gauge pod on the drivers side I think you fit it as tight as you could. If you would have brought the a post bar farther back to the a post it might have made it difficult to weld 100%. I think you did a nice job of fitting the rest of the cage to the truck's body. Looks great.
 

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looks like if you weld in the right order you can lift the cab up and weld 100%
 

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Is it a street driven truck?

You are doing a nice job, but if you leave that bar out that far with the gauge pod on the pillar then you are going to have a pretty big blind spot. I would relocate the gauge pod and move the bars back just a little and out. That would make them profile the a-pillar a little nicer. It would also get rid of that big blinds spot. Also dash installation would be easier. If you split the a-post bars with a dash bar you can cheat it a little and offset them slightly. But, I would not do it much. I would not have any space between them top and bottom, in other words, maybe the right side of the bottom bar lines up with the left side of the top bar (make sense?). I prefer to keep them lined up, but I have had to move them about a half tube width over before.

Almost forgot, always keep in mind that you are going to have to weld it up. In other words, plan out how you are going to do it with every step. You should be able to lift the cab a little and get to the top. But that gets tricky when you have the dash bar splitting the a-post bars. Lots to consider.

Your notches look nice, and I like the complexity of your upper halo. good job.
 

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very nice imo. i would be happy with that for sure
 

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Looks great, the halo work is killer, as is the notching. - As Griffin noted, if you street drive it often the stock pillar plus the tubes being out can make for a rather wide blind spot. If you think it's going to be an issue, you could spit the pillar pipes at the dash cross as he noted, or I've also seen cages that have an extra bend to twist the tubes out above where the dash bar would tie in.
 

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Nice work but with the bars out that far if you go to a track with the tree close to you, you'll not be able to see it sitting comfortably in the truck. Like others have said, I'd move the gauges and get the bars out more. Nice work by the way.
 

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Man, where the hell were you when I was bending my dash bar last night? You could have done it in 2 seconds and not wasted two sections of pipe like I did!

That halo bar looks awesome! Maybe one day I will learn how to get the pipe to bend where I want it to. :(

I agree with Real McCoy, move that bar out closer to the a-pillar and toss those gauges, or mount them to the bar instead. You may have issues when sitting in the right lane.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for all of the comments. The truck is not street driven at all, so the only blind spot concern would be if it was blocking my view of the tree.

I don't mind ditching the gauges at all. I had planned on having to ditch them in the first place, but when I had all of that gap by the pillar, I figured I could fill it up a bit.

I had planned to drop the cage down through the floor to weld all of the joints by the roof before putting the doorbars in. I guess that'd not going to work if I make the dash bar split the pillar bars.

I think I'll try to see if I can get the bars closer to the pillars by splitting them. I don't want to move the lower half of the pillar bars out any more as that will make my door bars more complex. The way it sits now, my door bars are a straight shot.
 

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I've seen some that had a sort of "s" bend in the pillar pipe right near the dash pipe, that they door area remained inward, but the top/pillar section stepped out and tucked tighter to the body. - Just a thought.
 

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If you move the pillar bar closer to the door your gonna run it a problem fitting it to your halo unless you bend it(a-pillar bar) in at the top.Looks very nice.Take your time,looks better than most jobs I have seen people pay big money for.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
If you move the pillar bar closer to the door your gonna run it a problem fitting it to your halo unless you bend it(a-pillar bar) in at the top.Looks very nice.Take your time,looks better than most jobs I have seen people pay big money for.
Thanks! The fact that professional chassis builders like yourself say that it looks good means a lot.

The current pillar bars ended up the way they did because I was trying to keep them simple by avoiding a bend at the top to meet the halo. I was also thinking it would be stronger with fewer bends. Guess that's what I get for trying to keep it simple. I'll definitely need a bend up there if I want to get a tighter fit with the pillar.
 

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That's a great fit for any experience level.....nice job. Gotta remember to be practical, it all has to be welded. It looks like the door bars are going to be tough to weld. A lot of these jobs are like chess games....you have to be thinking 3 moves ahead to see if it will work out.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I added a bend at the top of the pillar bars to kick them over a bit. I think it looks much better.

I'm going to split the pillar bars and have a single bend in the lower half just above the secondary door bar. The upper and lower halves of the pillar bars will meet at the same point on the dash bar. This is going to make things more of a pain in the ass to weld, but it should be doable if I do it all in the right order. I can also cut the factory dash bar out now, which will shave a bit of weight.

 

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Discussion Starter #20
very nice work , did you use a program to figure out your bends or are you doing it old school
I'm using Bend-Tech Pro, but I'm finding I'm doing a fair amount of trig on scratch paper before inputting anything into the software. The software does help a lot, but it's only as good as the measurements you put into it. Trying to figure out how to accurately measure some areas has been the most difficult part.
 
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