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I am in the process stage of planning a open trailer build for my 86' notch. This build will be planned around a 3200lb max weight car/cargo combined. Trailer will only be built large enough to hold car, scooter and pit tools

Plans are to run a wheel/tire combo as short as possible to aid in loading a low car. I would assume to short of a tire could overheat on long haul hot days. Has anyone had any experience with this type of build or could point me in the direction of some good resources I would greatly appreciate.

My next question is would a wood or metal floor be lighter? Trying to build trailer as light as possible without being stupid crazy. I try to do everything using the KISS method
 

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T/S 368E
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A load E won't over heat, no matter what size or what you throw at it!!!
For something like that, even a load D would probably work fine, just don't let them throw the cheapest crap known to man on there.


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Jus sayin, I HAVE NOT BEEN SORRY I converted mine, bought used, so it tilts...........

More photos this thread.............

http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1613610

Very first job was to haul a Mopar A body with all suspension removed.....

I'm a REAL low buck guy. I converted my non-tilt trailer using a Horrid Freight long ram jack. I assume you don't have room, or what?

Mods in progress



Damn thing is SO handy





Haulin a broke down Ferd for the neighbor

 

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Are you building the trailer yourself? I am pretty sure most axle makers offer a dropped axle that offsets the spindles to drop the axle height. Only problem that brings up is your tires sit higher because the trailer bed is lower and opening your car door while loaded might present a problem.
 

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that last picture is that a ranger towing that f150 on that trailer ?
 

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I just changed mine out to a 15" wheel and a D load range tires. The 205/70R15s are right at 26" tall, very close to the 205/75R14 I took off. Mine is rigid, straight axle and really low. A good friend of mine built it probably 20 years ago and it's crazy light. All steel, open deck center. You can grab it by the tongue and roll it around and it'll sit there on all 4 tires with the jack retracted if there's nothing on it. Lol
 

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Put a long beavertail on the trailer and use long ramps.

I have an 18ft with a 4ft beavertail (goes all the way to the rear of the fender) and 5ft ramps. You could load about anything up on mine without dragging.







Will
 

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jazdill;5672**** said:
I am in the process stage of planning a open trailer build for my 86' notch. This build will be planned around a 3200lb max weight car/cargo combined. Trailer will only be built large enough to hold car, scooter and pit tools

Plans are to run a wheel/tire combo as short as possible to aid in loading a low car. I would assume to short of a tire could overheat on long haul hot days. Has anyone had any experience with this type of build or could point me in the direction of some good resources I would greatly appreciate.

My next question is would a wood or metal floor be lighter? Trying to build trailer as light as possible without being stupid crazy. I try to do everything using the KISS method
I built exactly what you were describing!

A high deck to keep the fenders low enough for doors to open over them.
A dovetail AND Tilt to drive a low [as in Road Racing] car onto it.
Slide out rear ramps.
Alloy diamond plate deck bonded to a Galvanised steel frame.

I did a build thread on the garage journal if you want to check it out.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=268273
 

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I bought a new 18' aluminum open trailer 4 years ago with full aluminum deck, radial tires, led lights, spare tire and stabilizer jacks on the back end for $4250. It was the best trailer I ever owned and only weighed 1200 lbs empty and pulled like a dream with my 3000 lb Nova on it. Used it for 2 years and sold it for $4200 when I bought my aluminum ATC enclosed. Not saying you can't build one cheaper but by the time you price all the material and parts, not counting labor it may be a good option.
 

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jazdill;5672**** said:
I am in the process stage of planning a open trailer build for my 86' notch. This build will be planned around a 3200lb max weight car/cargo combined. Trailer will only be built large enough to hold car, scooter and pit tools

Plans are to run a wheel/tire combo as short as possible to aid in loading a low car. I would assume to short of a tire could overheat on long haul hot days. Has anyone had any experience with this type of build or could point me in the direction of some good resources I would greatly appreciate.

My next question is would a wood or metal floor be lighter? Trying to build trailer as light as possible without being stupid crazy. I try to do everything using the KISS method
I am in the same boat. My idea is to use a drop torsion axle 5-7k capacity and go single axle. I have a 3/4 ton f250 so the single axle will work. I am thinking build it wedge style so I can open the door and and step out. I have a tilt 20' that uses a 18 wheeler 2 spd jack to make it tilt. It works great but still cant open the doors to get out. I also have a 20' G/N with springs and 7k axles and with 5' ramps I catch at peak. I can put rear of truck on oil change ramps and use 5' ramps, then have to use boards and end ramps to decrease approach angle for front bumper clearance. Double check your states requirements for weight ratings and inspections for trailer etc
 

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T/S 368E
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There is absolutely no way in hell I'm spending a nickle of my dough on a single axle trailer!!!!
Risking a car, plus killing yourself, friends or family is nuts.
There is a huge difference between a car and a lawn mower!!!!


Too each their own, but that sounds like a very bad idea!!!!


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There is absolutely no way in hell I'm spending a nickle of my dough on a single axle trailer!!!!
Risking a car, plus killing yourself, friends or family is nuts.
There is a huge difference between a car and a lawn mower!!!!


Too each their own, but that sounds like a very bad idea!!!!


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Its obvious you do not pull or build many trailers? Lets see, 3200 lbs on a 5k single axle with Load range E tires, behind a 3/4 ton, it will appear legal. I am not sure where you are from, but in Texas a trailer rated over 4500 lbs has to have an annual inspection and brakes...this is all the 16' with 3500lb axles. Now if you build it as a single axle, you can register it at 4k, stay under the inspection rule. Pull that car all day long if you build it right. In Texas, 4k has to have a title, over 4500 has to have inspection and brakes. Depends on how bad you want to split the hair on the law.
 

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I'm with mrdragster1970 on this man. No way would I own, build or have a single axle "car hauling" trailer.

You site the reason as to avoid "taxes" and "Fees" for going single axle. That is nuts.

If that trailer blows a tire, no wait, WHEN that trailer blows a tire, you (or the driver) will not be ready for it. It could cause a crash.

Tandem axle solution offers more tires, and will allow you to keep moving if you lose a tire.

Trailer failures are NOT just the tire. Whole hubs can come off too. In any event, any failure will cause you to have to stop immediately.

With a single axle trailer, if you lose a tire, you HAVE to stop where ever that is. Most likely not the safest spot to stop at. Failure never happens at the best times or locations.

Now, I have seen a single axle DUAL wheel trailer. But it was custom built around the truck it was meant to carry. It was a very short trailer.


Going back to the TAX and Fees . If your building the trailer, you can spec out the capacity. You can under-rate the trailer. Shit, you can put four 10,000# axles, and rate it at just 4500#.. Just don't get caught with more by the law.

I did this with my custom built triple axle, I had the builder "under-rate" the title. Physically the trailer can handle ~#20,000, but I had it rated less.
 

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T/S 368E
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You just can't fix stupid!!!!!!!!!!


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Like I said, I tow both daily, and the 5th wheel is many times better.
I tow open, enclosed & 5th wheel.
Dual axle, triple axle, and dual dual axle.
I feel safer, the ride is much better, the extra space is a huge plus, it's just a better system.

That being said, I bought the big ass triple TAG because I used my trucks for carrying ladders & equipment, and pulling that 5th wheel out got old!!!!
Plus my friends borrow the trailer, and none of them have the truck to pull a 5th wheel when all my trucks were in the field.

If you have the truck, storage space & dough to afford it, a 5th wheel is a no brainer, if you don;t, you do what you have to do.

Again, good luck!!!


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Obviously some people think they know it all, and can't listen when someone that actually does it everyday gives a different answer.

So again, you just can't fix stupid, and I'm glad there's one less moron around here, and he's in Texas risking killing someone driving next to him!!!!!!!

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Lets look at the OP's quoestion.
I am in the process stage of planning a open trailer build for my 86' notch. This build will be planned around a 3200lb max weight car/cargo combined. Trailer will only be built large enough to hold car, scooter and pit tools
When you build your trailer, take measurement of the car and add 3' just to be able to adjust the tongue weight. Lets say that measurement is 12', so make the square...not including tongue, 3' longer. That square you go 6" behind center. This is where the axle needs to be. If it were me, I would spring for the torsion drop axle. This will get you the lowest. If it were me I would go 7k axle, 5k will be border line. I would run a 14 ply tire if you can afford the height. If you go with a 10 ply, you can get them short but expensive. This is taking into account you have a minimum of a 3/4 ton truck that can handle the weight distribution needed. See how I am explaining and just not flaming....I know what I am doing and challenge any other to prove me wrong. As far as trailer tires, change them out every 3 years period, I dont care how much tread is showing.. You should never have a blow out even on the Chinese 14 plys. I actually haul more than 3200 lbs in the bed of my F250. Lets go to that challenge.? Dont worry, I have been your state guys, all 48. I woud go wood for the floor. Lighter and easier to replace
 

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that last picture is that a ranger towing that f150 on that trailer ?
LMAO, yup, a junker I had for about a year. 97? I think, 3.0 automatic. The Ford died, and I hauled it about 3 miles up a 35mph 4 lane street to a shop so the neighbor could get it fixed. Little Ranger did fine. When I sold it I effed up, because it turns out it had "staged" overloads, and my 98, which was broke at the time, did not. So I should have robbed those OL springs.

This is my old beater trailer before I bought the one now, hauled my little Toyota powered Cletrac on it a couple of times, with the old 86 2.9V6. It, tho, was a 5 speed stick

This was my Unca Bill, RIP. He was a Marine in WWII, on Okinawa amoung other places. The day he died, with a pacemaker in his 80's he was doing some dozer work with his TD IHC dozer gas/ diesel. They found him, dozer still running late in the day

 
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