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...failure to communicate
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Dammit - title should be ONE FUEL SYSTEM WITH DEADHEAD REGULATORS - ISSUE.
I hate that you can't edit that. :(

I previously ran the engine on one fuel system and the nitrous on another (it's own pump). Both systems are deadhead (no return) with no air bleeds either. To minimize creep, I always turned the nitrous fuel pump on right before I prestaged.

Now, I've combined them into one system (-10 line) off one pump (BG400) and I have a fuel log at the front with the engine regulator and the nitrous regulator. Both are still deadheaded.

I have no issues with the engine side, but I had not thought about the fact that I now have fuel pressure on the fuel solenoids and no where for it to go. I went for a short drive the other day and even though I have the nitrous FP regulator set around 7 psi, I was getting over 10 psi and climbing during the short drive.

I'm guessing pressure will drop quickly when I spray it and the solenoids open, but I'm worried about that much fuel on the hit plus much much is too much on teh solenoids? I don't want them to leak or anything when running N/A or on teh motor.

Running 20 psi at the fuel pump (it has a bypass built in).

Do I need to run bleeds before the fuel 'noids or do I need a bypass regulator or ???

Thanks.

 

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This is gonna....

Depend on who you talk to, or listen to...
Some run bleeds, some dont..... I always do....
Jump in here newlywed [Steve] and tell him why you dont...
Maddawg
 

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T/S 368E
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.

I will never run anything again without air bleeds. N/A or N2O. Especially with the pumps we use today. "400-500"

.
 

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...failure to communicate
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Depend on who you talk to, or listen to...
Some run bleeds, some dont..... I always do....
Jump in here newlywed [Steve] and tell him why you dont...
Maddawg
That's what I've always understood as well. I've read a lot of those different theories as well. It depends more on how the tuner likes to do things and being consistent with the tune is the key.

But I'm not worried so much about it creeping a pound or two when staging, I'm concerned about excessively high pressure when driving or running N/A.

Going to run it on the motor this thursday and will see how that goes. Will be spraying it soon after.
 

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...failure to communicate
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Bump?

Just putting it up on the trailer tonight, It got to 15 psi on the nitrous fuel pressure gauge. It died instantly soon after that. I'm wondering if fuel is pushing past the noids? They sat for a bout 3 years - probably killed them? or no?
 

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"Darkness"
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I wouldn't think so. But I run bleeds so what do I know.
 

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Senior Frog
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Bump?

Just putting it up on the trailer tonight, It got to 15 psi on the nitrous fuel pressure gauge. It died instantly soon after that. I'm wondering if fuel is pushing past the noids? They sat for a bout 3 years - probably killed them? or no?

u could easily check if you just remove the line on the otherside of the noid......If it dribbles your a leaker.:eek:
 

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...failure to communicate
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Duh, thanks, Mitch. been working too hard/long lately and my brain isn't even picking up on the easy stuff.

Let me go back to pounding it in the wall for a while.... :D
 

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i've run one pump deadheaded for the last couple years, with both a fogger and a plate. it'll peg the fuel pressure gauge, but never had a problem with it creeping past the solenoids. plenty of motor passes and no issues? maybe next time it will be though. lol
 

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Jay,
As Denny said, I like to leave it deadheaded. I would do as excel said and make sure the solenoid isn't lealing fuel when it's closed. remember, pressure holds the solenoids closed as well, so again, the built up pressure should not be an issue. Also, as far as it creeping up to 10, 15, or wherever, if you have a regulator that will react properly when opened (like the Holley 12-803) it will blast that built up pressure into the system and level right out at the set pressure. When the nitrous is at 900-1000 PSI, that little kick behind the fuels not all bad !!;) Just my two cents... SJ
 

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...failure to communicate
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks all.

Steve, it is a Holley regulator that was on the car when I got it. I looked all over for a part number and there isn't one, but it looks just like the 12-803 and knowing that the previous owner probably got it at BB&T and that's what they have there, I'm sure it's what it is.

Since the regulator isn't "rated" for pressures that high, I wasn't sure if it would be a problem or not. I also noticed that if I bump the pump off for a split second (of course the pressure goes to near 0) but then it recovers to around 6 or 7 psi where it is set before slowly creeping up again

I plugged the lines and capped the regulator last time out since I was just making motor passes but I'm going to hook them back up and check it like Mitch suggested. I found why it was so rich also, so now I don't think they are leaking away.

Thanks.
 

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Trevor Stripling
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If you want it to hit harder, put the returns. If you want it to hit a little softer, deadhead it.
 

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Jay,
As Denny said, I like to leave it deadheaded. I would do as excel said and make sure the solenoid isn't lealing fuel when it's closed. remember, pressure holds the solenoids closed as well, so again, the built up pressure should not be an issue. Also, as far as it creeping up to 10, 15, or wherever, if you have a regulator that will react properly when opened (like the Holley 12-803) it will blast that built up pressure into the system and level right out at the set pressure. When the nitrous is at 900-1000 PSI, that little kick behind the fuels not all bad !!;) Just my two cents... SJ
Steve... forgot to tell ya before.... Congrats to you and the Mrs..
Denny:supz:
 

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I have the same set-up ( dead head holley reg, plate, and bg400) with no issues at all. And I drive the car on the street every week.
 

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...failure to communicate
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have the same set-up ( dead head holley reg, plate, and bg400) with no issues at all. And I drive the car on the street every week.
And your fuel pressure at the 'noids sky rockets as well?
 

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Deadhead or not to Deadhead

I run a deadhead system for both the carb and the nitrous with no problems. It is pretty much a drag car with little street time. I have run bleeds both regulated and unregulated/restricted with no problems either. I will say that a bleed or a return system on the carb for a street driven car is a big plus in preventing vapor lock or fuel boiling past the carb's needle and seats. It also seems to make the car run just a little cooler on the street. For a drag car I swear by deadhead systems. Just my .02
 

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Denny,
Thanks !!!! hell, we even honeymooned at the Superbowl race in Joliet this past weekend !!! :p Now you can see a small wonderful part of why I married her !! ;)

Jay,
I would just make sure the regulators in great shape and you'll be OK. I used to run mine on a log with 38-40 PSI against them before I knew better... LOl SJ
 

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Also, looking back at your picture and how far the regulator is turned in, it looks like it should be set at about 8-9 PSI ?? If it's set at 5-7 and has to be turned down that far I would replace it now. The springs do get weak over time and hurt it's ability to react.. SJ
 

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...failure to communicate
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks everyone.

Steve, not sure which picture you are looking at, but it's likely not set. After my fuel pump got fixed, the BG regulator decided to die on me. I also had a dead gauge. I plugged the BG regulator (carb) and the nitrous fuel lines and used the Holley for the carb temporarily to get it running.

That's when I found the gauge was flaky as well. that's probably why the setting was off. Not sure when i took the pic. replaced the BG with an aeromotive and capped the Holley for some motor pulls. Going out tomorrow night and if the motor passes are clean, I'm going to hook the nitrous fuel back up and set the flowing pressure and spray it.

I'll let you know how the reg works out - thanks for all the tips!
 
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