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I have found a enclosed car trailer that I am looking at but it is a 1999 (21 year old trailer). If everything check out (no water leaks, no rust ....) how concerned should I be about at the age of this trailer? I would appreciate any and all input (always had open car trailers). Thanks in advance
 

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Many of us have had our trailers that long and have zero issues.
Now mine was kept indoors most of it's life, but is now outside due to downsizing my shop temporarily until I move the frick out of here.
It just cracked a brace under the step 2 weeks ago, I will have to weld up as soon as I get a chance.
I did have a roof leak 3 years ago, but fixed it immediately, and I replaced the springs in 2018.

If it's been outside it's entire life, definitely crawl under every inch, check the date on the tires, 8 tires is not cheap in my case, pull every wheel, check the floor carefully for spongy spots etc etc!!

Do your due diligence and you should be fine.


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I have a 1999 PACE 48 foot GN trailer. When I got the trailer it was just a empty box. The floor boards were soaked in oil. I removed the front flooring and built out a complete living quarters with about 120 gallons of fresh water and 80 gallons of gray and 40 gallons of black water. This spring I decided to add LED lights to the exterior walls of the trailer for pit lights. I also redid some of the wiring. While working on the new LED lights I noticed the top seam was cracked as I put on flow able fill. I put in some Eterna Bond tape around the entire top seam around the perimeter. I also noticed a old leak so I took care of that as at one time the previous owner backed into something. Ok so now I replaced the ceiling as it had water leaks. Got that all done.
I noticed during the last couple of years the drivers wheel well was sloping to the outer wall. A close look and I found a crack on the sheet metal at the bend between the floor board and the wheel well. I said no better time to pull the floor boards which are 3/4 inch thick.
When I removed the floorboards I found that there were cracks on the outer wall supports. The welds were a cold weld from the factory. I know the previous owner had a nasty blow out on the passenger side as the wall has battle damage and tire marks up the side wall.
I also found out that the dove tail was not screwed down from the factory as the flat prior to the drop there was 2 floor Joyce they only put screws at the edge of the plywood and they all pulled thru the 3/4 plywood. If they would have added screws into the second flat Joyce it may have held a lot better.
I also welded all the old screw holes so I can put new screws in them and not be stripped. I will drill with drill bits if I hit welded spots.
Today I am spraying some stain / sealer on the new floor boards and start putting down new plywood. The hardest thing and my challenge is to get the 3/4 plywood to bend at the dove tail with out cracking. I am hoping I wont have to boil a lot of hot water to pour on the floor to allow it to bend.
When it is all said and done I will also have a full solids epoxy floor with some bling flakes.

Here is the link to my floor board work. Trailer New Floor and Rework
 

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Many of us have had our trailers that long and have zero issues.
Now mine was kept indoors most of it's life, but is now outside due to downsizing my shop temporarily until I move the frick out of here.
It just cracked a brace under the step 2 weeks ago, I will have to weld up as soon as I get a chance.
I did have a roof leak 3 years ago, but fixed it immediately, and I replaced the springs in 2018.

If it's been outside it's entire life, definitely crawl under every inch, check the date on the tires, 8 tires is not cheap in my case, pull every wheel, check the floor carefully for spongy spots etc etc!!

Do your due diligence and you should be fine.


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Thx for your input
 

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I would spend the time to go over everything, wiring connections, brakes, wheel bearings, tires etc.
 

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i have 96 pace 28ft and not a problem. ill tow mine anywhere... just go over it all and just do your maintenance as others have mentioned.
 

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Just make sure you go over it and price the things it needs. My current trailer I didn't want to buy new. When I was shopping around I needed a specific size and didn't have a lot to choose from. The ones I found all needed tires plus other work. Once I totaled it up they were all within $2K of new. Once the price was that close I just ordered a new one. I would still have the 2003 if the guy I sold a car to hadn't insisted the trailer come as part of the deal.
 

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I have found a enclosed car trailer that I am looking at but it is a 1999 (21 year old trailer). If everything check out (no water leaks, no rust ....) how concerned should I be about at the age of this trailer? I would appreciate any and all input (always had open car trailers). Thanks in advance
I'm not reading all the posts here but I am sure someone will tell you to make sure to check out all the systems. Brakes, electrical, welds, flooring, tires, etc.

My 28 foot box is a 1999 too and over the years I have set it up several different ways. While I am not perfectly happy with everything about it, I paid $6400 for it back then and went to Indiana to get it from the factory. It has a 48" side door, was wired for a pair of 12 volt interior lights and is 12" taller than the standard. When loading the dragster I hate that it's a beavertail but when loading the door car it's nice to have. I just re-worked the interior two years ago, re-did the brakes on it, and put new tires on it last year. I carry two spares btw. I put a box on the front to carry a 12v battery and provide storage for jacking blocks. I replaced the rear lights with LEDs last year and plan to replace the rest of the marker lights this off-season. I carry a pair of Craftsman toolboxes up front, one side cabinet that holds my air tank and line plus provides a mount for the 12v radio and that is connected to interior and exterior boat speakers. I have it wired for 120v AC with fluorescent lighting and multiple outlets. I have two upper wall cabinets that are used for storage and two 3 place fuel jug holders, one on each side just ahead of the tire wells. Sorry for the long ramble but I have two boys that race and they are already on their second trailers. Both of those units are really nice but they also cost $14k or more. And to be honest we all get to the track with our toys. I don't know how much they are asking for the trailer but if you have the resources and the ability to do basic work, you can take it and make a decent trailer out of it. If you have not owned an enclosed one before, get one of your racing friends to check it out with you - always good to have a second set of eyes looking at stuff. Best of luck!
 

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I have a 1999 PACE 48 foot GN trailer. When I got the trailer it was just a empty box. The floor boards were soaked in oil. I removed the front flooring and built out a complete living quarters with about 120 gallons of fresh water and 80 gallons of gray and 40 gallons of black water. This spring I decided to add LED lights to the exterior walls of the trailer for pit lights. I also redid some of the wiring. While working on the new LED lights I noticed the top seam was cracked as I put on flow able fill. I put in some Eterna Bond tape around the entire top seam around the perimeter. I also noticed a old leak so I took care of that as at one time the previous owner backed into something. Ok so now I replaced the ceiling as it had water leaks. Got that all done.
I noticed during the last couple of years the drivers wheel well was sloping to the outer wall. A close look and I found a crack on the sheet metal at the bend between the floor board and the wheel well. I said no better time to pull the floor boards which are 3/4 inch thick.
When I removed the floorboards I found that there were cracks on the outer wall supports. The welds were a cold weld from the factory. I know the previous owner had a nasty blow out on the passenger side as the wall has battle damage and tire marks up the side wall.
I also found out that the dove tail was not screwed down from the factory as the flat prior to the drop there was 2 floor Joyce they only put screws at the edge of the plywood and they all pulled thru the 3/4 plywood. If they would have added screws into the second flat Joyce it may have held a lot better.
I also welded all the old screw holes so I can put new screws in them and not be stripped. I will drill with drill bits if I hit welded spots.
Today I am spraying some stain / sealer on the new floor boards and start putting down new plywood. The hardest thing and my challenge is to get the 3/4 plywood to bend at the dove tail with out cracking. I am hoping I wont have to boil a lot of hot water to pour on the floor to allow it to bend.
When it is all said and done I will also have a full solids epoxy floor with some bling flakes.

Here is the link to my floor board work. Trailer New Floor and Rework
If you're still working on that bend.....get a length of 4x6, measure where you want the bend and put the 4x6 under that spot. Park as much heavy stuff as you can on the plywood at the 4' ends. Let it sit like that for a few days. You could wet the bend area with some water to speed it up but I would avoid it myself.
 
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