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Discussion Starter #21
So what testing procedure do you guys think I should perform to find what this particular combo likes best?
Drill one out to .075 and run the pump with a drill to operating pressure and see if it flood the heads?
How do I know if it is still providing enough oil in running conditions to ensure a hydrodynamic film in the bearings?
 

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95% Strip, 5% F around the street. Solid roller. Bullet Cams (Morel) Ultra Pro lifter.
Those lifters dump a shit ton of oil on the wheels....
It'll lose some there, either way I'd try a .060 and .075
See what they flow like, the .060 is still going to move oil even if it is feeding both sides.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Those lifters dump a shit ton of oil on the wheels....
It'll lose some there, either way I'd try a .060 and .075
See what they flow like, the .060 is still going to move oil even if it is feeding both sides.
Thank you for the suggestion! After having this sumbitch take itself apart at the stripe I'm a little gun shy on too little oil :oops:
I'll put a .075 in and check flow on the dyno after the oil gets up to temp unless you have a better idea?
 

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Price Motorsport Engineering use to sell a restrictor kit for Small Block Fords, and here are the instructions. They had a restrictor in the front, and one in the rear for the lifter galleries. The one in front was for one side, the one in the rear for the other.

 

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It was also brought to my attention, that Dart cam bearings are externally grooved, have THREE holes... and dump a lot of oil. I was thinking about restricting the oil going to them.

I have run the above Price Motorsports kits in stock block solid flat tappet small block Ford engines for decades... street and strip. Never an oiling issue. Not even close.

As for restricting the lifter galleries, I'm sure lifter type matters... in order of oil need... Hydraulic Roller vs. Bushing Type Solid Roller vs. Needle Bearing Solid Roller (pressure fed) vs. Needle Bearing Solid Roller (not pressure fed).

Opinions?
 

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I measured the restrictors in the Price Motorsports kit, and the ones for the oil galleries measure 0.125". The one going to the driver side bank goes in the diagonal port under the rear of the intake, and the one to the passenger side gallery goes in behind the rear lifter gallery plug, between the plug and the lifter bore. It looks like they may work in the Dart block as well.

Some may say the 0.125" restrictions are not restrictions, but they are a helluva lot smaller than the unmodified passages in the block. With bushing style solid lifters, they are the size I will likely use. Plus, due to the Dart cam bearings having three holes instead of just the one in the bottom on journals 2-4, I'll like use the cam bearing restrictors as well.

These worked great on my other engines... even at 35 degrees outside on the 1/4 mile with Mobil 1 15w50.
 

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It is a front sumped primarily drag engine. Some street time but not a ton. I'd rather not get new pushrods. I can only fit 5/16 in these old street heads so Trend made me a nice thick wall (.110 I believe) set and they only have about 40 runs on them. Please explain your test procedures if you don't mind. Thanks for the help!
The test procedure is pretty straight forward.
once you have the bottom end and heads installed with lifters etc simply prime the oil system and see how much is getting pumped upstairs. If it’s excessive then play with restrictor sizes until you get the amount you feel is correct.
It should be added that due to the differences in every combo your results may vary from what we have done.
We run 55mm roller bearings so we have zero oil going to the cam bearings.
On front sumped drag engines there is a tendency for the oil to uncover the pickup on launching. You know what happens next when that occurs.
Our Ford powered vehicles here in Oz are primarily front sumped as well. We’re using an accumulator to overcome these issues on those cars.
 

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I measured the restrictors in the Price Motorsports kit, and the ones for the oil galleries measure 0.125". The one going to the driver side bank goes in the diagonal port under the rear of the intake, and the one to the passenger side gallery goes in behind the rear lifter gallery plug, between the plug and the lifter bore. It looks like they may work in the Dart block as well.

Some may say the 0.125" restrictions are not restrictions, but they are a helluva lot smaller than the unmodified passages in the block. With bushing style solid lifters, they are the size I will likely use. Plus, due to the Dart cam bearings having three holes instead of just the one in the bottom on journals 2-4, I'll like use the cam bearing restrictors as well.

These worked great on my other engines... even at 35 degrees outside on the 1/4 mile with Mobil 1 15w50.
0.125 is not a restriction at all. That’s over 3mm in metric terms. It’d be pointless using them imho.
 

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It was also brought to my attention, that Dart cam bearings are externally grooved, have THREE holes... and dump a lot of oil. I was thinking about restricting the oil going to them.

I have run the above Price Motorsports kits in stock block solid flat tappet small block Ford engines for decades... street and strip. Never an oiling issue. Not even close.

As for restricting the lifter galleries, I'm sure lifter type matters... in order of oil need... Hydraulic Roller vs. Bushing Type Solid Roller vs. Needle Bearing Solid Roller (pressure fed) vs. Needle Bearing Solid Roller (not pressure fed).

Opinions?
I think the idea of limiting oil to those bearings would definitely have some merit. I can see that the two lower oiling points may be of some benefit but the one at the top is a worthless oil leak.
 

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Thank you for the suggestion! After having this sumbitch take itself apart at the stripe I'm a little gun shy on too little oil :oops:
I'll put a .075 in and check flow on the dyno after the oil gets up to temp unless you have a better idea?
The point of restriction is to keep oil on the rotator. SBF Dart blocks for whatever reason.... seem more picky about oil flow than the Dart Chevy blocks, and in my opinion it's due diligence to restrict the top even just slightly... and honestly I'd rather burn up a pushrod all day long dialing in a restriction, than starve a bearing. Also as mentioned it's a good idea to restrict the cam bearings and I will say that an .060 hole to a cam bearing is no restriction but, it's better than nothing.
 

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Can this just be done with pushrods or is it best with restrictors in the block ?
My SBF has never had bearing issues but it does fill the covers which then fills the catch cans etc
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Thanks a ton for all of the info guys! A lot more to this than meets the eye for sure.
russxr, do you use a pan heater to bring the oil up to temp before testing? Kinda thinking it may help bring it closer to running conditions.
Never even though about the cam until Mike and Chris brought it up.
 

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I just measured the holes in the restrictors that go to the cam bearings, and they are 0.090"... which is pretty big according to you guys, but still FAR smaller than the passage they are in. At least they will control any major 'bleed'.

LIFTER GALLERY RESTRICTORS:
I was able to install the lifter gallery restrictors in the Dart block. The passenger side (non-oil fiter) lifter gallery is fed by a passage in the rear, as described in the yellow instructions posted above. I was able to simply run a 1/2-13 tap through the 1/4 NPT hole in the back of the block, and tap it all the way past the oil supply, far enough into the metal beyond that to insert the restrictor. It has to be tapped DEEP... around 2.5". I did it by hand. The 1/4 NPT threads help guide the 1/2-13 tap, and keep it straight. Just be careful, go slow, keep moving it in and out... flushing out the cuttings, and it will eventually get there. The 1/4 NPT plug in the back of the block still goes in like it always did, and seals just fine.

The driver side lifter gallery (oil filter side) is a 7/16-20 plug that taps into the diagonal gallery from the top of the block. The tap didn't really want to start easily, so I read the writing on the tap, and it said to drill a 25/64 hole... so I did, and it bit. (didn't have to do that on the stock block) The tap went in about a half inch, then stopped. I didn't want to break it, but with a tiny bit of trimming to the restrictor, it was far enough to not interfere with the screw-in plug on the top of the Dart block.

This is a Dart Sportsman 8.2 block, which is basically an Iron Eagle 'Light'. The SHP wasn't out yet when I purchased it 10-ish years ago, else I probably would have gotten one of those. I'm assuming the SHP would be set up in a similar fashion.
 

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Can this just be done with pushrods or is it best with restrictors in the block ?
My SBF has never had bearing issues but it does fill the covers which then fills the catch cans etc
if you add the restrictor at the back then you can leave the pushrods alone because you can tailor the amount of oil you want just by changing the Size of the hole.
Wayne?
 

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Thanks a ton for all of the info guys! A lot more to this than meets the eye for sure.
russxr, do you use a pan heater to bring the oil up to temp before testing? Kinda thinking it may help bring it closer to running conditions.
Never even though about the cam until Mike and Chris brought it up.
No I don’t but you could try using thinner weight oils as a substitute to see what difference it makes.
 

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if you add the restrictor at the back then you can leave the pushrods alone because you can tailor the amount of oil you want just by changing the Size of the hole.
Wayne?
Thanks Russ
Yeah its me
Stepping up the combo a liitle and thought while its apart id look into solving the extra oil up top issue
Always wondered if it was better controlling it with pushrods so the lifters still get plenty and ill need to buy new pushrods anyway
 

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Thanks Russ
Yeah its me
Stepping up the combo a liitle and thought while its apart id look into solving the extra oil up top issue
Always wondered if it was better controlling it with pushrods so the lifters still get plenty and ill need to buy new pushrods anyway

Ok, let me know when you are ready and I’ll show you how to modify it.
 
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