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Because when you are running an engine on a dyno or in a car you are accelerating the oil pump, not running it at a steady state. The most important part of the question "how much power a given pump takes to turn" is going to depend on the mass of the guts of the pump because that is what you are accelerating.
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Because when you are running an engine on a dyno or in a car you are accelerating the oil pump, not running it at a steady state. The most important part of the question "how much power a given pump takes to turn" is going to depend on the mass of the guts of the pump because that is what you are accelerating.
so then,,,how much HP does it take to drive a pump ????
 

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Simple hydraulics calc for a 5gpm pump @ 60psi is a little over 2.25hp. This irrespective of gear type. Power is proportional to flow and pressure → more flow or more pressure takes mo powah. 100psi eats about 3.8hp, 10psi is about 0.4hp. YMMV.
 

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I think I answered that in my post. We made a full pull with no oil pump and it made 4-5 HP more that the previous otherwise normal pulls with 50 psi. Tells me they take less than 5 HP. Id bet on 3
out of curiosity,,,how did you make a pull without a oil pump,,,was there oil in the pan,,,how much ? i'm thinking may be lack of windage resulting in hp gain ???
 

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out of curiosity,,,how did you make a pull without a oil pump,,,was there oil in the pan,,,how much ? i'm thinking may be lack of windage resulting in hp gain ???
It was all explained in the previous original reply to this thread. The oil pump pick up tube broke off the oil pump at the beginning of the third pull of a new engine combination.. No one noticed it had no oil pressure during that pull. The sheets said it had 8-10 psi from 5000 to 7800 RPM. During that time period it picked up 4-5 HP from the 1st and second pulls. It was done on a used short block so there was no breaking in of parts. We were just trying different cylinder heads and intake.We always dyno with 6 quarts plus filter. so 6 1/2 total
 

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I've seen these pressure balance/anti cavitation grooves on Chevy pumps. What pressure is being "balanced" and how do they work? I understand the possible "spark scatter" from the pressure pulses due to the gear mesh and this was somewhat addressed by the Melling Sharktooth gears which is just a helical versus straight gear tooth. Still wondering why they have not released a Sharktooth BBC pump in nearly a decade after the small block Sharktooth was brought to market.
 

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I ask the same question at the Melling booth at PRI every year. Never got a good answer until this year. It was said this time that since the BBC pump has 2 more gear teeth compared to the SBC, it would not help as much.

I can tell you that when they had the demonstration display with both an M55 and a Shark Tooth pump in a common tank of oil, with a handle on each to turn the pumps, the Shark Tooth turned a whole lot easier.
 

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Bringing this back up because I noticed a change when priming a new pump recently.

So, I have had this 427 since 1980 and it's been thru a few different phases, street, mild drag, and what it is now. It started out with the GM Corvett pan with the long gear L88 pump for the street, then it got moved to the Camaro for bracket racing in the high 6's. Then a rebuild going to a Moroso 21047 drag pan with a Meling pump. At this last rebuild we found the pickup had broken the weld at the pump and my machinist said it was time for an upgrade. Never any oiling problems (bearings, cams (hyd, solid, roller) or oil pressure (data logged))

The new pump is a Moroso Billet Aluminum spur gear oil pump # 22164 standard volume/pressure with the same 21047 pan. So, I am getting ready to get the car back out this year putting fluids back in etc. I put the 7 quarts of Brad Penn 10w-40, WIX 51061R filter and grab my ARP primer and a 1/2-inch Dewalt batter drill to prime it up since it's been sitting awhile since the rebuild.

I pull the trigger on the drill expecting it to kick back like it had done in the past, it doses but not very bad compared to all the other times in the past. Hmmmm WTF. I do it some more and not much kick back at all. I got my son to watch the in-car oil pressure gauge and he says 80. I varied the RPMs and correspondingly the pressure rose and fell while getting oil to the rockers.

So, I got to thinking about this thread and was wondering if anyone else has had this experience? I am really surprised that this new Moroso pump takes a lot less effort to spin over.
 
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Anyone seen this?

The new pump is a Moroso Billet Aluminum spur gear oil pump # 22164 standard volume/pressure with the same 21047 pan. I put the 7 quarts of Brad Penn 10w-40, WIX 51061R filter and grab my ARP primer and a 1/2-inch Dewalt batter drill to prime it up since it's been sitting awhile since the rebuild.

I pull the trigger on the drill expecting it to kick back like it had done in the past, it doses but not very bad compared to all the other times in the past. I got my son to watch the in-car oil pressure gauge and he says 80. I varied the RPMs and correspondingly the pressure rose and fell while getting oil to the rockers.
 
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