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I just ain't ballzzy enough to run 0w in any of my bracket shit.
You might be surprised. Have ran it in our cup stuff at over 275 oil in temp for hours. Many late model stock cars, both asphalt and dirt run it all the time. Both bearings and pushrod tips look good. It makes good power, and lives under endurance apps. Pretty badass shit for a "shelf" type oil.
 

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Red Line oil has the same vecosities plus an 0-40 and a 5-40



I wonder if there is anything in the M1 4T 10-40 4-stroke motorcycle racing oil that wouldn't be good for an auto engine ?

Re; the M1 4T; It's a great oil but has a LOT of moly in it. It polishes shit inside your engine.
 

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Anyone have any experience with Klotz oils? That's what I have been using and recommending to customers. So far so good from what we have experienced.

Just curious what others findings are.



Thanks
 

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Would the beams on rods get polished ? ;)
I just remember when Bob (GN7) pulled his GN engine apart after running that stuff and what it looked like inside. He was a pretty big fan of that oil even though that was ten years ago.
 

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I just remember when Bob (GN7) pulled his GN engine apart after running that stuff and what it looked like inside. He was a pretty big fan of that oil even though that was ten years ago.
If that oil can take the abuse of a road race bike, or dirt bike and the heat the transmission generates. It's some good oil.
 

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Says not recommended for the street 😤
Not sure I'd run it in my daily driver for 7500 miles at a time, due to the lesser amount of detergents (which is a good thing in other ways). But from a street/strip vehicle, as the thread was originally about, to a full race NA deal, it works pretty good!
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Says not recommended for the street 😤
I was thinking the same thing until I watched the RedLine video as well.

Watch the Red Live video.

Doesn't mean you can't run it, there are just some reasons why it might not be the best choice.
Yup looking at the relative low street miles I put on it the race oil should be fine for me.

I appreciate all the discussion (y)
 

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FYI,

Wix Racing filters have a micron rating of 61. Not the best to use for a street-strip car.

K&N has a 10 micron rating. Baldwin filters (their Chevy racing filters) are around 18 microns IIRCC. Baldwin B279.

For street cars there are better choices than a Wix Racing filter. Including K&N, Baldwin, Napa Gold, Wix (but not the racing), Royal Purple and Mobil One, Jomar. The RP and M1 filters are the same as K&N if memory serves.
Might want to buy one filter for mercury racing 1350 see how it’s made inside. Probably well made filter it’s standard size think will fit a Chevy.
 

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I just ain't ballzzy enough to run 0w in any of my bracket shit.
Ron, I was worse than you about this stuff. The time that I spent with the rep. convinced me that it would work great. (He worked with cup teams.) Running the 0-30 in my low power stuff and have a 1100 hp carbed alcohol deal running the 0-50. I am a nobody but am very happy with it. Used oil analysis has been insightful. Going against the grain a little, I would even use it in a flat tappet deal, I feel the anti-scuff properties are that good.
 

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Use either Baldwin B279 which is a racing filter or the B6 street filter. I'm planning on the B6 with a 4" Clearview that the Baldwin filter screws onto the bottom of the Clearview. The Clearview will have a 60 micron screen to look for larger partials and the Baldwin for fine filtration.

Just looked on shelf, I have a 5 gallon can of Klotz 0w2
 
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