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Discussion Starter #1
Having a problem with oil consumption.

Had engine apart for head porting and new rings after knocking the moly out of a couple from detonation.

Rigid honed with 320 stone. bores were very straight and round,nothing new or unusual there. --.001 round ---.0005 taper.
Had a set of Total Seal Gapless Top rings to try. Being a street driven car with a small blower thought it would be good experiment.

Reassembled as usual.
Get it running,smoked right from the beginning.
So it needs run some.
Ran it HARD and still leaves a cloud when you nail it. Smokes on start up.
Replaced valve seals AGAIN, that helped on start up some.
Used 3 quarts of oil in 100 miles..........
Pulled intake,oil laying on top of valves.
Comp test 1/3/7/2/4-/8 150/155lbs
#5 # 6 185lbs???

only 8.8cr.

When airing up the cylinders to change seals, there is like ZERO blow-by into the crankcase??
Appears to be sealed well?????

Using LUCAS 30 break-in oil.
Oil too slippery?

It is hard the get any temperature in the engine too,, weird. Lack of compression???

Ideas?????????????
 

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gapless rings, nothing but trouble
 

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Discussion Starter #4
When breaking in the cam I couldn`t beleive how cold the engine ran.
Couldn`t get it over 180 in the garage.
usually heat is a problem.

Gonna put a 180 thermostat in it.
Normal 10w-30 oil,add some timing and see if the heat dries it up at all.
Can`t hurt I guess.
Might even dust it with Comet....
 

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i think the ring groove designs for gapless rings are the problem
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Found the problem.
Live and learn I guess.
Won`t do that again with those rings.
New everything,all is back to normal.
 

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Found the problem.
Live and learn I guess.
Won`t do that again with those rings.
New everything,all is back to normal.
So what was the actual problem....to help educate and inform, so others don't make the same mistake...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So what was the actual problem....to help educate and inform, so others don't make the same mistake...

Those gapless rings don`t like USED pistons.

The inner chamfers are the inverse of std. style rings.
Won`t tolerate any wear in the ringlands.
 

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The Phantom Machinist
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If you actually honed it with a 320 grit, you’ve probably killed the RPK and RK value of the cylinder walls. You’ve got no oil retention in the bore for the rings to seal on. You need to establish those surface values before doing the finishing step(s). Anything more than three light strokes with a 280-400 grit will plow the surface right under.

The general procedure would be to true up the cylinders straight and round with a 220 grit, and then just plateau with the 280-400 grit, sometimes followed by a brush, depending on your block material and profilometer readings. With the gapless top ring, this is especially important as the pressure from the ring to the bore is higher, and in a smaller contact area due to the step cut.

I’ve used many many gapless top rings with great results. The block must be honed correctly to make them work.
 
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