I've got some guys running methanol & they change the oil every so often. In other words, RARELY.
All you have to do is warm the engine up COMPLETELY at the beginning of each racing day. This will boil off any moisture the engine may have in it. If you have a dry sump tank, remove the cap while doing the warmup so steam & vapors can escape. Otherwise, you can take the fill cap out of a valve cover with a wet sump.
If you have a vacuum pump (either wet or dry sump) you may want to install a removable cap (threaded) in the opposite valve cover to allow the vaccum pump to fully evacuate the system during warmup.
Do you have a way to induce a large vacuum leak at idle? My guys run a piece of 1/2" vinyl tube to a barbed fitting in the carb spacer and the other end is next to the driver's seat with a ball valve on it. This will speed up the warmup cycle considerably.
My guys also don't run any magical mystical oils. Engines always look extremely good during freshing and drained oil looks excellent after weeks & weeks & weeks of racing. No need to change it if the moisture's not in it and it's not full to the gills with fuel. Alky tuning (when done right) doesn't need to result in oil dillution with fuel. If it's injected, use the manufacturer's recommended starting point for pre-set leakage of the barrel valve & keep it as lean as possible.