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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone ever put a constant +12 power source to their O2's?

We currently have our O2's on the ignition power switch and try to wait for the heaters to warm up, but some times they are not, and it drops out on the log.

These are LC-1,s and a DL-32.

Thanks
Tom
 

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Do not warm up the sensors before starting the car, bad idea. Innovate even says this in their instructions. I wouldn't power them directly from your ignition switch either, use the key to turn on a relay or if it's EFI power it from the fuel pump relay.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Do not warm up the sensors before starting the car, bad idea. Innovate even says this in their instructions. I wouldn't power them directly from your ignition switch either, use the key to turn on a relay or if it's EFI power it from the fuel pump relay.
Haven't read thru Innovates instructions in a while, and you are correct. Thanks for the reminder Dave. The power comes from my Leash Data board.

We try to push the car thru the lanes, but every once in a while one of them doesn't heat up and we lose that log.

Thanks
Tom
 

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We run Daytona Sensors product integrated with the Racepak. As you have found, if they aren't warmed up you lose the O2 data. I found out other were having the same issue. The fix is to have the O2's come on when the main power switch is On. I've never had an issue since with losing data or with the O2 sensor system.
 

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We run Daytona Sensors product integrated with the Racepak. As you have found, if they aren't warmed up you lose the O2 data. I found out other were having the same issue. The fix is to have the O2's come on when the main power switch is On. I've never had an issue since with losing data or with the O2 sensor system.
yeah or just put the 02's on their own switch. that way the 02's are not on when your working on the car between rounds.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
yeah or just put the 02's on their own switch. that way the 02's are not on when your working on the car between rounds.
I like this idea, but you have to remember to turn them on any time the motor got fired up, or the sensors would be toast.

Wait maybe 2 voltage sources, 1 ignition and one switched. You could then leave them on in the staging lanes.How's that sound.
 

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I like this idea, but you have to remember to turn them on any time the motor got fired up, or the sensors would be toast.

Wait maybe 2 voltage sources, 1 ignition and one switched. You could then leave them on in the staging lanes.How's that sound.
do you have to turn a fuel pump on to run motor?

I guess it depends on your setup. I usually have the car powered up & working on the efi & grid box between runs. I'm not sure how much power 8 02's take to keep heated maybe its not a issue to be on all the time?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
We have a belt driven fuel pump so that will not work on our application.

I think I might try the 2 source deal, I will have to put a diode in so I don't back feed my other stuff. That way we can power up the O2's when we get to the front of the staging lanes.

Then you have this:

It is NOT a good idea to connect the LC-1 permanently to 12V and switch it​
on with a separate switch before the vehicle is started. Depending on the climate​
and the sensor position in the exhaust, condensation water can form in the​
exhaust pipes. This condensation water could then be blown by the exhaust​
stream against the hot sensor when the car is started. The resulting heat shock​
can permanently damage the sensor.

Which I don't think will be a problem as mine are mounted at the 10 & 2 o'clock position and their open headers.
 

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I have 8 O2 sensors with Daytona controllers on my dyno, they stay powered up all day long, never lost one because of “condensation” in a exhaust system that just cooled down. I will say we use some tall bungs .850 so the tips is barley in the exhaust. Daytona sends a 6 amp power supply for 2 sensors, so current draw is less the 3 amps.

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have 8 O2 sensors with Daytona controllers on my dyno, they stay powered up all day long, never lost one because of “condensation” in a exhaust system that just cooled down. I will say we use some tall bungs .850 so the tips is barley in the exhaust. Daytona sends a 6 amp power supply for 2 sensors, so current draw is less the 3 amps.

Joe
Why the tall bungs on the dyno? Heat?
 

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My O2 (also LC-1) is wired to the ignition (car has 2 ignitions actually, one is the car/ECU/O2 and the other is just the coils). The car is warmed like innovate says, no sensor preheat. But once the exhaust is warm, there is zero chance of condensation for the day, and we can preheat the sensor for the rest of the day with the first power switch for a few min with no concern of hurting the ignition coils (we can also verify ECU settings and make sure the car is set for the pass.


The preheat of the sensor is just a first start of the day concern.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
My O2 (also LC-1) is wired to the ignition (car has 2 ignitions actually, one is the car/ECU/O2 and the other is just the coils). The car is warmed like innovate says, no sensor preheat. But once the exhaust is warm, there is zero chance of condensation for the day, and we can preheat the sensor for the rest of the day with the first power switch for a few min with no concern of hurting the ignition coils (we can also verify ECU settings and make sure the car is set for the pass.


The preheat of the sensor is just a first start of the day concern.

Looks like we will do our regular start up at the beginning of the day (we wait for the LED's to stay solid) and then use a switch to keep them powered on in the lanes. It seems we get bit by this when I really want to compare both O2's.

Thanks for the replies
Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just thought I would get back to this. We did the separate power switch and it is much better now. But still lost a sensor on a restart when the tree messed up. Probably threw a load of methanol on it when it re-fired.

Tom
 
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