There was just a post somewhere about this, I hear NGK are the best to use autolites will take more abuse than NGK which means if you toast an autolite then chances are you hurt the pistons too. I will see if I can find the post
This is from another Board (Evilb1 knows this site well) it's a all mopar board but there is a lot of good tech info to be found there too. A guy by the name of Monte smith posted this.....
"The .073 jet is an industry standard. Nitrous fuel enrichment is measured in lbs/per hour of fuel, not pressure. Pressure is all relative to the amount of fuel added. The reason the .073 jet is suggested, is because as I said, it is an industry standard. If you call me and say you have a (insert jet number here) flowing at 6lbs, through a .073 jet, I know roughly the lbs/per hour of fuel you are flowing. And at 950 lbs, we also know what the nitrous jets flow roughly, so based on these two figures, you get the nitrous to fuel ratio. You should NEVER flow with the fuel jet that you are running through your plate. It will most always be DEAD RICH and this hurts parts just as bad as lean. Your flow gauge should remain a constant, that you can depend on and the one size jet, gives you that......On the plug reading tips from Wes, the only thing I would add, is that you should NEVER see a blue line on the electrode if you are running an NGK plug. If you see heat on the strap, you have too much timing. The strap on an NGK, will take on a red/gold crusty appearance when dead on. NGK plugs are highly suggested for nitrous use. They are by far the easiest to read. Do not use AutoLites. They are indestuctible. If you burn an AutoLite plug, rest assured the piston under it is also."
I agree with alomst all of it but the red/gold crusty color. NGK plugs have a cadnium coating on them. When the coating is just flaking is when the tune-up is on the money. A red/goldish crusty color means some oil got into the chamber and boiled the cadnium coating off. Not a very good sign...
Only to save sample plugs for further evaluation or when Im making a tuning hit.. Otherwise I run them till they burn.. :-D I also save all the old sample plugs to fire up the motor after rebuilds or after the tuning hits are made..
I used Autolites and really never had a problem with them. They are harder to read though. Champions and nitrous I could never figure out. I always burned them suckers... NGK is probably the best bet. You will not net too much in ET trying to find the perfect sparkplug. I just go with whatever is easiest to read and lasts in the motor.
Not at all. The info I posted came directly from Monty Mikho (regarding the reading of the plugs/pics)......came straight from this site. I mentioned in one of the posts on Moparts. You have come to the right place cause Monty KNOWS his shit and has helped me on several ocassions. The info you get is correct and not some guess that people make often times. One of the best tools to use is ask questions from guys that are going fast and not killing parts. So far its been of great benefit to me, plus he's a cool guy to rap to.