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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What brand & size converters are people using on the gas?
Post up your times & car details too.

Trying to decide if pulling my NA converter out for a supposedly nitrous specific one will be worth the hassle.

Current setup is a 346 LS1 forged, solid roller, AFR's, 4L65, 6K No name brand converter, 4.11's, IRS rear end, 250 shot direct port progressively controlled - running in the mid high 9's between 140-145MPH depending on how well I hook at around 3220lb's.

Car was originally setup to run fast NA but added gas when I got bored.
 

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If you are using a converter that was initially set up for n/a and you are spraying it. Changing to a nitrous converter should make a fairly dramatic difference on the spray.

It will kill it off the bottle though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the replies fella's - I should have said I've had a 4200 "nitrous" converter sitting in my garage for a while but have been debating whether it was worth swapping it for the "6K NA" one in it at the moment.

By the responses it sounds like I should pick up a bit.
Just have to get my arse into gear.

I doubt I will ever race it NA again - the car is pretty much a track only car & it would be hard to go back to running 10's again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yes I sort of understand the torque thing which is probably why I shouldn't be using the 6000RPM NA converter (car shifts at 7950) that is currently in it.

Thanks for the replies fella's - I think I will definately throw the "nitrous" converter in before I take the car out again.
 

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Let me put the important part first,

When you change conveters make sure to pull timing as the converter is going to load the motor a lot more and if you are not cautious with the timing you may detonate and hurt the motor. I would pull at least 4 to begin with to see how much this unkown converter pulls the motor down then adjust from there.

If the nitrous converter you have is designed for a simalarly powered combo then yeah go ahead and put it in there and see what happens, if its for an 870 on a big hit then it will likely cause the motor to detonate and be an absolute pig, that is it will run like a well matched nitrous converter will with no juice.

I only bring this up to make sure its a conveter that was designed with a simalar combo in mind, if you got a 6k converter you will find the car hooks a lot better ( it wont bang so hard at the hit allowing it to hook but will pull a lot better by about 50 ft out ) in addition the MPH and top gear performance will increase dramatically as the converter will keep the motor in its nitrous torque range.


Good luck with it,

Richard Gavle
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks - yes the converter was made specifically for my combo on the gas - just never put it in.

And I didn't think about the loading issue with the smaller converter - I will throw it on the dyno after swapping converters to check it a bit.

Thanks for the tip.
 

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Let me put the important part first,

When you change conveters make sure to pull timing as the converter is going to load the motor a lot more and if you are not cautious with the timing you may detonate and hurt the motor. I would pull at least 4 to begin with to see how much this unkown converter pulls the motor down then adjust from there.

If the nitrous converter you have is designed for a simalarly powered combo then yeah go ahead and put it in there and see what happens, if its for an 870 on a big hit then it will likely cause the motor to detonate and be an absolute pig, that is it will run like a well matched nitrous converter will with no juice.

I only bring this up to make sure its a conveter that was designed with a simalar combo in mind, if you got a 6k converter you will find the car hooks a lot better ( it wont bang so hard at the hit allowing it to hook but will pull a lot better by about 50 ft out ) in addition the MPH and top gear performance will increase dramatically as the converter will keep the motor in its nitrous torque range.


Good luck with it,

Richard Gavle
Richard,

I think I'd have to somewhat disagree with this. A loose converter (6k) on nitrous will accelerate the motor much faster than a tighter converter. This usually plays havoc with controlling driveshaft speeds. A tighter converter will control the motor rpm better, and in multiple system applications, will allow you to either turn up the first system or apply the second sooner. Either one, making the run quicker (or at least it should).

As far as pulling timing with a tighter converter...unless it's a drastic change, the reduction in timing will slow the rate of motor rpm down such that it could possibly detonate do to loading. Fine line, I know, but something to think about. The bigger issue with a converter that's a bit too tight is on the gear change. When going to high gear, if the motor gets the wind knocked out of it too long, it starts to detonate from all the added heat....then the death smoke starts to roll out...
 

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Glad this was asked as I have a N/A converter (6100) with 406 and on 225 hit it goes to 7000. Now the car runs from 10.20 to 9.20 this way. But will ET pick up when putting in say a 4000 N2O converter and no other changes? Or will it run the same and not try and RPM the motor to death?
 

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Glad this was asked as I have a N/A converter (6100) with 406 and on 225 hit it goes to 7000. Now the car runs from 10.20 to 9.20 this way. But will ET pick up when putting in say a 4000 N2O converter and no other changes? Or will it run the same and not try and RPM the motor to death?
Something seems a little off with your combo. A true 225hp shot will give you a lot more than 1 second increase in ET. It sounds more like a 150ish shot. Not that it really matters if it is running correctly and the plugs are good, who really cares what the hp shot is........... If you aren't out of convertor or gearing on the top end then I wouldn't think you would see much of an increase. When you shift, does the convertor drop down to the stall point and climb back up quickly or does it just kinda drop a little bit? If you are getting the same rpm drop on or off the bottle then you haven't put too much to your convertor, yet. ;)

I would go 10.4's on motor and 9.4's on a .063N jet in the plate. On the bottle I saw over 1000rpm more stall yet at the shift it still dropped the same amount of rpm.
 

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Marc I was not clear in my post, when I said,

"I only bring this up to make sure its a conveter that was designed with a simalar combo in mind, if you got a 6k converter you will find the car hooks a lot better ( it wont bang so hard at the hit allowing it to hook but will pull a lot better by about 50 ft out ) in addition the MPH and top gear performance will increase dramatically as the converter will keep the motor in its nitrous torque range."

I meant to say,

I only bring this up to make sure its a converter that was designed with a simalar combo in mind, if you got a 6k converter then with the new converter you will find the car hooks a lot better ( it wont bang so hard at the hit allowing it to hook but will pull a lot better by about 50 ft out ) in addition the MPH and top gear performance will increase dramatically as the converter will keep the motor in its nitrous torque range.

You must have thought I lost my mind or lived in the opposite dimension :rolleyes:

As far as pulling 4 degrees I mean do this to make sure the tune will be O-K since the new converter may be way to much for the combo (you never know till you try it) and may indeed drag the motor down on the shift and launch causing more load/heat etc. are you saying that pulling 4 degrees of timing is may cause the motor to detonate on a 250 shot? that does not seem likely to me but I am always happy to learn new things (like the one you taught me earlier to always check my posts, before posting to make sure I am saying what I want to) :confused:

Richard Gavle
 
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