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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So my aluminum fuel tank is suffering from the good old methanol blues. I had it made when I was in Florida and the corrosion started there. Back here in Colorado it's not so bad, but still enough that I'm going to swap it out just to prevent issues in the future. I'm going to build a new one from stainless, but having trouble deciding on what thickness to use. I've measured .075, .063, and .050, and it seems the .050 is what I'm wanting. It's still decent enough thickness to hold up well, but not so thick that my tank will weight a million pounds.

What thickness would you use to build a tank if you were doing it? Keep in mind, it's triangular shaped, fits behind my seat, and holds approx 7 gallons.
 

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How old is the current tank? Why not just build another one? Remember, if you're going to build a stainless tank, you need to back purge the tank (lots of argon consumed) or the welds will sugar on the inside. That makes for poor weld strength, and potential fuel system trash. Add the weight penalty, and another aluminum tank might not be a bad way to go.
 

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Just throwing this out there.

PICKLING, AN EXCELLENT SURFACE TREATMENT FOR ALUMINIUM

mob200417eng.pdf (vecom.nl)

Then fill and let set with diesel.
 

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So my aluminum fuel tank is suffering from the good old methanol blues. I had it made when I was in Florida and the corrosion started there. Back here in Colorado it's not so bad, but still enough that I'm going to swap it out just to prevent issues in the future. I'm going to build a new one from stainless, but having trouble deciding on what thickness to use. I've measured .075, .063, and .050, and it seems the .050 is what I'm wanting. It's still decent enough thickness to hold up well, but not so thick that my tank will weight a million pounds.

What thickness would you use to build a tank if you were doing it? Keep in mind, it's triangular shaped, fits behind my seat, and holds approx 7 gallons.
.050 be plenty, maybe even .040 and not hat much argon is used after tacked together 5 CFM for one minute after tacked and 1 after that during welding if you have a sheet metal bender you can limit how many welds you have by folding it to get the shape you want
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
.050 be plenty, maybe even .040 and not hat much argon is used after tacked together 5 CFM for one minute after tacked and 1 after that during welding if you have a sheet metal bender you can limit how many welds you have by folding it to get the shape you want
I have access to both a shear and a bender...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
To answer questions, I am building a new tank, but not of aluminum....No, tank wasn't anodized, and I've been told by every company that does anodizing it can't be done now that it has corrosion. I was also told that they couldn't guarantee coverage inside the tank, and only one company told me they would "try". All the others pretty much refused. Back purging the stainless isn't a big deal...Not worried about the welds or anything like that.

I did try pickling the tank, but it didn't last....the worst part of the corrosion is near the bungs for the fuel pumps, which is a big issue.....good thing I have good filters on it....
 

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isn't the main point of an aluminum fuel cell (when not using an actual real, crash worthy rubber bladder fuel cell), is when in a wreck if the fuel cell gets crushed, it'll bend with less chance of splitting, compared to a steel cell? If you switch to a steel fuel cell, yeah, you may have less corrosion issues with methanol, but then you create a safety issue, negating the point of using an aluminum fuel cell... Why not just switch to a plastic fuel cell? Yeah, I know, I like to fabricate all my own stuff too, so I know the temptation of just wanting to build it yourself, especially when you already have the stock materials and it may save you some money...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
isn't the main point of an aluminum fuel cell (when not using an actual real, crash worthy rubber bladder fuel cell), is when in a wreck if the fuel cell gets crushed, it'll bend with less chance of splitting, compared to a steel cell? If you switch to a steel fuel cell, yeah, you may have less corrosion issues with methanol, but then you create a safety issue, negating the point of using an aluminum fuel cell... Why not just switch to a plastic fuel cell? Yeah, I know, I like to fabricate all my own stuff too, so I know the temptation of just wanting to build it yourself, especially when you already have the stock materials and it may save you some money...
No, they are used because they are cheaper and easier to manufacture than stainless, although most chassis builders will do stainless if requested. Has nothing to do with crashing and bending...if the tank is in the right location, the chance of it being damaged due to a crash is greatly reduced, has nothing to do with material it's made of. If that were the case, the NHRA would be all over that with new rules.

Plastic cell won't work. Where my tank is located and the shape does not lend to a pre made tank. Mike Bos built this car and I'm stuck with what I have. I don't mind making a new tank....just frustrating about getting one anodized.

I run uplon top lube, but the corrosion issue started in Florida and has steadily progressed. Humidity makes it much worse, and once started is hard to stop.
 
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