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Discussion Starter #1
well we finally busted off the blow thru 496 tonite and after about 3-4 seconds, the carb will just shoot out a solid stream either outta the rear or frt barrels(outta the aerosol tubes) and kill the motor. we pulled all 4 float sight plugs out and start it up, the floats are where they should be , haven't touched a thing on this carb since getting it from c&s new 3 months ago or more. fuel pressure doesn't even have a chance to climb to 7psi before the carb shoots in the big shot of fuel , floods the motor and kills it. using a new 13202 regulator on a belt driven aeromotive pump. have 10an line to the pump, to the regulator and 8an from the regulator to the carb, 10an bypass coming outta the bottom of the 13202 goin back to the tank.
any ideas guys? runnin timing locked at 35 degrees. we pulled the hat off to watch and see wtf is happening. after getting it cranked (flooded from the prior carb flooding) it'll run for 3-4seconds, and either the back 2 barrels will shoot in a straight shot of fuel or the frt 2 barrels will do it, its inconsistent that way. still have the lil red vent tube plugs on the vent tubes, tried it /without and it still floods:rolleyes: for a 1700 buck carb its sure a pain in the ass:-damnit

the carb sheet said its got 78 in all 4 corners. we haven't touched the butterfly screws(what would be idle on a regular carb) and we haven't touched the lil allen idle screw either. haven't turned a single screw on the carb.
 

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The red caps on the vents are there for shipping only to keep the bowls clean. You must remove those first. I would then remove the return line and put it in a fuel jug and make sure there is not an issue with the fuel return. Have you backed the regulator off till you feel no pressure on the adjuster screw. That pump will make 60 psi no problem at idle.
 

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If you have the vent capped off, where do you think the fuel going into the bowl is going to go when the trapped air is looking for a way out? It is going to push the fuel out the booster!!!!!

Where are you measuring fuel pressure??
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The red caps on the vents are there for shipping only to keep the bowls clean. You must remove those first. I would then remove the return line and put it in a fuel jug and make sure there is not an issue with the fuel return. Have you backed the regulator off till you feel no pressure on the adjuster screw. That pump will make 60 psi no problem at idle.
on the 13202 is that with the screw on top back all the way out or screwed in?
 

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I do not understand your last question. I would suggest backing out the adjuster till you have no tention on it, then give it a 1/2 a turn. You will have low fuel pressure, but you can adjust it up once your gauge, if working correclty is stable.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If you have the vent capped off, where do you think the fuel going into the bowl is going to go when the trapped air is looking for a way out? It is going to push the fuel out the booster!!!!!

Where are you measuring fuel pressure??
tim, i think you're on to something man! i called and had him pull off the red deals(we did already try with and without those, but good to know:-D) and i told him to pull the line offa the bottom of the regulator and see if anything was coming out.


what had me thinking it wasn't pressure is that with all 4 sight plugs out, the bowls don't flood outta the holes like a regular carb would if pressure was wayyy to high. i know this thing is nothing alike, so it may not work that way.
 

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stick with tim on that carb, he will get you straight.. I had one and he walked me through everything on it..Tim also helped me get it tuned over the phone..
 

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Pulling the site plugs and fuel no longer coming out the booster, makes sense because the air trapped in the bowl has a place to go.

Where is the return line in the cell? Sorry man, I am trying to double check everything to make sure something was not missed.
 

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Can you give me the number of the person standing next to the carb so we could talk?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Pulling the site plugs and fuel no longer coming out the booster, makes sense because the air trapped in the bowl has a place to go.

Where is the return line in the cell? Sorry man, I am trying to double check everything to make sure something was not missed.
ohhhhhh!

its a 12 gallon stainless fuel tank in a dragboat. i think maybe we bought a shit pump, i read they were supposed to prime themselves, and this pump isn't priming itself. do they normally feel like they are free wheeling when you turn them by hand, or should you feel the thing actually pump? also there's no inlet/outlet on the pump. we're turning it clockwise and the aeromotive sign is upside down on it, but when we turned the pump that way with a drill , it pumped fuel so we thought it was ok. were we wrong?

i gave ya my uncle's tele#, he's standing right by it now.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
stick with tim on that carb, he will get you straight.. I had one and he walked me through everything on it..Tim also helped me get it tuned over the phone..
i can tell he knows his chit, and the advise and help is soooooo fucking appreciated!!! we wanted to fuck some guys up with it on the lake this saturday at the cove dragboat races and we're under the clock trying to get it somewhat tuned by then. using a new fast wideband single o2 meter to read air fuel ratio.,
 

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Discussion Starter #14
tim, we appreciate the call man!!! i forgot we bought that regulator outta the for sale section here and it sounds like it may be bad:-damnit i gave that guy good feedback too:rolleyes: my uncle is pullin that regulator apart as we speak and letting me know if we need to overnite a rebuild kit
 

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I am talking on the phone to the guy you got the regulator from, and he swears it is brand new.

What did he find!
 

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You have to crank the line at the pump to get the air moved out of the line and it will pump. Gravity feed does not hurt!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
there's no way to gravity feed it in this boat. i just ran back to his house to help and as soon as the regulator gets to 3psi(fuel was coming outta bypass on regulator, tried a different fuel pressure gauge even), the rear vent tube shoots fuel out. we tried adjusting the floats all the way down, and still fuel shoots outta the rear vent tube. i'm tired and goin to bed. he'll have to pull off the rear bowl tommorrow and see wtf is goin on. this thing has become a headache:-damnit the pump that's supposed to be da "shit" won't pick up its own fuel although the ad says it'll pull fuel, the carb can't see more than 3psi or it floods, the regulator seems to be working fine as far as i could tell. nite yall
 

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Discussion Starter #18
gonna give c&s a call this mornin, if its not right by this evening, that carb is goin back. we got charged a 100 bucks more than our local buddy that bought the same carb a month later anyways , wasn't please about that to begin with. now this "flowed" and bolt on ready carb can't hold more than 3psi before it floods the rear, that's bs man:-damnit
 

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Discussion Starter #19
pull the rear bowl and sure nuff the float pin was jacked up. put it back together with the needle's in their lowest setting, still floods outta the vent. pulled bowl back off again, and with the needle's screwed all the way down, you can lift the floats with a finger and still blow past the seats:-damnit we screwed them down till there was no room for the adjuster nut to hang onto and still you can blow past the rear seats. very dissapointed in this carb, acts like the needles are too short for the bowls altogether. this was NEVER flowed before it was sent to us, it was NEVER checked to see if it worked as promised, and all along i thought we were payin the high $$$$ for the service of having a trouble free bolt on carb, not something we'd have to take apart and heavily mod just to make it function.
 

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I suggest you call Roger and get this resolved.
 
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