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Discussion Starter #1
( Please skip to paragraph 2 to avoid my introduction ) Good morning! Brand new member here, long time car enthusiast / owner. Firstly I have no experience in regards to any competitive drag racing at the current level that I will be building for ( I've only attended one event years ago and just now looked at the rules for set classes ). I have had my fair share of experience with what most would consider very fast cars, but not even close to 2,500hp let alone 4,000+hp.

I'm not sure if I want to build a Pro Mod, 10.5, radial or no-prep car. I will be moving to Vegas next month, but do not mind traveling 15 hours for an event. The problem is I am confused as I see discrepancies between 10.5 events from coast to coast and not sure if I should even build a 10.5 car especially given this thread lol ( enjoyed it none the less ) https://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2308138

I read that some events play favorites and will allow certain liberties to higher profile individuals etc. I do not like that, I am a grown man, this is not high school and I feel it would be in the best interest to whoever benefits to implement some type of security in set classes. I'm not going to build a car that costs more than the average Joe's house only to be undermined by social circles and handicapped due to cheating ( lets call it what it is ). Nor do I want to build a car that would be frowned upon by the OG's of this game. I don't want to be labeled a cheat by my peers

One event has SFI 25.2/25.3 cage * back-half * only cars, yet another event allows tube chassis with a weight penalty. Essentially am I basically allowed to build a Pro Mod and just put steel quarters / roof and call it a day? That is what I would like to do and from my understanding is standard now. Most these people add a 25.2/.3 certified cage, back half their cars, then add a front half ( or heavily modified " stock front frame rail " ), regardless how you say it, that still would make it an all out Pro Mod chassis, correct?

How about this combo, I buy a Chevelle, buy a Pro Mod chassis, then weld the Chevelle body on the Pro Mod chassis? BBCTT and I should be at a very competitive weight, minus aerodynamics. I say BB because with that combo I doubt I will be able to take advantage of the SB weight anyway.

I'm not understanding the difference between No-Prep either, obviously the actual prep of the track, but the rules between no-prep and 10.5 seem similar, am I missing something?

Thank you for reading!
 

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Decide what class you have your heart set on and go from there. Find a knowledgeable chassis guy and engine builder as most are familiar with the rules. There
are substantial differences between east coast and west coast rule sets. If you decide on west coast 10.5 , Robert Remilliard would be a great resource. He's
on here and facebook.

Cheers,
Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you both for your input. I do prefer west coast rules and since I am also moving to Vegas I feel it will be best for me. Regarding 10.5 west coast events, do they offer the same general ruling? Does each track have its own events? Or do multiple tracks pull together and do some type of travel series?

One more quick question, is there a lack of racers? I see some events changing rules to fill the field, is there really not enough racers? Forgive me as I am new to this type of racing and initially thought that there were too many of these cars to even count, but it seems as these 10.5 classes are fairly popular and the racers are somewhat known. I feel like you all know each other well. At least you speak to one another like you do ( banter, profanities etc lol )

I love the car in your signature Wheelsup, what does your car weight and with what engine setup if you don't mind me asking

Thanks again
 

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Thanks for the complement. Car weighs around 2,675 with steel roof and quarters and still has door handles, window trim and all stock wheelbase and body dimensions. It's a tube chassis car so not legal on the East Coast :rolleyes: Mine is a BBC with a Procharger on Methanol.

Anyway, all heads up classes can struggle with car count. Things are going fairly well in the west right now with some good organizations. The tracks don't really organize but they do support the races. Notable is the West Coast Hot Rod Association. They, along with Jay Bodie, run a heads up Big Tire/No Time series that is doing fairly well. Pretty loose rules as it's a No Time deal. Pro Mod style cars can run if they run a 33/10.5 tire and haven't run in a Pro Mod race in the last 12 months. Street Car Super National is the big race in November with multiple heads up classes and plenty of cars. PSCA runs it as well as Outlaw 10.5 at Bandimere and St. Louis.

In the Pacific Northwest we have a series of (5) Outlaw 10.5 races that draws 12 - 20 cars for each race. It's been growing and is gaining more and more traction.

Thank you both for your input. I do prefer west coast rules and since I am also moving to Vegas I feel it will be best for me. Regarding 10.5 west coast events, do they offer the same general ruling? Does each track have its own events? Or do multiple tracks pull together and do some type of travel series?

One more quick question, is there a lack of racers? I see some events changing rules to fill the field, is there really not enough racers? Forgive me as I am new to this type of racing and initially thought that there were too many of these cars to even count, but it seems as these 10.5 classes are fairly popular and the racers are somewhat known. I feel like you all know each other well. At least you speak to one another like you do ( banter, profanities etc lol )

I love the car in your signature Wheelsup, what does your car weight and with what engine setup if you don't mind me asking

Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thank you Wheelsup! I would like the exact setup as you with a TT ( maybe +2 wheelbase ). Would you go with Tim Mcmanis or Jerry Bickel for the chassis build?

* Edit * Out of curiosity how long does a Pro Mod chassis last with a BBTT before you need to junk the car for safety reasons, can you run 4-500 passes on the car? Once the integrity of the chassis is compromised due to actively racing are you able to fix it like new or do you just junk the chassis and buy a new one?
 

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Junk the car after 4-500 passes? That's ludicrous. I'd be fairly pissed if a chassis I paid $10s of thousands of dollars for was "junk" and no longer safe to drive that quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Good morning, thank you for the reply Midnightblu. I'm not entirely familiar with power levels of this caliber and the effect it will have on the chassis is why I ask. I was hoping if the integrity of the chassis was compromised in some way that it would be repairable, but at the same time " safety first " and with me being unfamiliar I would like to do as much due diligence as possible. I will start off with 1/8th mile runs and a lot of practice before competing. I figure within a year or so I should feel comfortable to compete and even then I will be fine with just being a class-filler.

That being said I figure if I take the car to the track every week to practice and make 10 passes, in about a year I should have roughly 4-500 passes and was wondering if I would then need a whole new chassis or if I would just need to take it to the chassis builder for preventive maintenance, repairs etc. Ultimately I'm not in it to win money as from what I see the purses are not that appealing anyway, I would just like to see if I'm good. I use to race fairly heavily for years until work took over, now that I am comfortable with a bit more free time I'd like to start again. I can't imagine what the power of 2,500hp+ feels like, when I was growing up a 1,200hp gutted car was considered a force and anything over 700hp was pretty much the top players ( at least in my area ). The car that I am going to build none of my friends had, it is like comparing the NFL to high school football nor do I even know anyone with a car of that caliber. The most money I ever raced for was a $1,200 grudge race ( I won ). I was obviously naive with a silly import, but I'd like to do it right this time around
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Did you consider just building and running a Pro Mod? Car counts are strong and you can run anywhere in the country.
I actually did yes, at that level I would unlikely be able to compete at all though. That is the Super Bowl, where everyone is likely running 4000hp+, with maintenance being a key factor and individuals probably spending 100's of thousands on new parts a year and maintenance. Going up against operations with no limit doing it for marketing purposes with sponsors for days. I think I will have my hands more than full with 10.5 lol

Maybe one day, maybe not
 

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Being someone that has seen some crazy shit, I would suggest you go out and buy a car. Turn Key. Not a class car, just a drag car.

Get familiar with drag racing in general, how to do a burnout, stage the car, (this is important) Learn how to DRIVE the car.
Need more speed upgrade or buy another turn key deal.
Learn how to DRIVE that car, then continue up (or down) the ladder to where you want to be.

I have seen too many deep pocket guys go out and destroy someone else's car (usually the low budget guy that is getting it done with less) because they don't know how to fucking DRIVE a damn race car.
You need to put time in behind the wheel before you go out and race a big boy car.
 

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If you were going out every single weekend putting 10 laps on the car per weekend as you say, that bitch will be worn out halfway through the year. Take the advice of others have given you and buy a proven car and take baby steps forward. Learning to drive the car is one thing but learning to build and maintain one is a whole nother level.
 

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I will give you a deal on a 63 Vette 10.5 outlaw car west coast rules I live in Vegas and I can tell you this racing sucks out here lol
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I actually did not even receive any notifications for this thread, dang. Thank you all for the input. I actually do not mind freshening up the engine etc halfway through the year that won't be a problem. I have never rode in a car of this caliber so not really sure if I will even line up against anyone anyway, I could very well get halfway through my practice year and say " not for me ". I truly don't know, but I"m definitely set on a west coast style 10.5 setup

Prost63vette - How much?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I have a twin turbo 55 Chevy that will run with them built by skinny kid. $125,000.
I might buy used if the deal was right, as B.A. Carry pointed out it seems that the chassis at these power levels are really only good for 4-500 passes, which is fine, comes with the territory.

Am I able to maintain a chassis with proper maintenance intervals for a longer life? The chassis currently is the only thing I am worried about for the most part
 

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I might buy used if the deal was right, as B.A. Carry pointed out it seems that the chassis at these power levels are really only good for 4-500 passes, which is fine, comes with the territory.

Am I able to maintain a chassis with proper maintenance intervals for a longer life? The chassis currently is the only thing I am worried about for the most part
I didn't say that lol. I cant name one chassis that has more then 150 passes on that haven't redone, changed, replaced, or overhauled the chassis.

I don't think you realize how many passes 150 really is on one of these cars. let alone 400.
 

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I'll put it this way, there was a 10.5 guy, and a twin turbo pro mod who flat out said they we're limited what they could do because of how beat up the chassis was and neither were even remotely close to 400 passes.
 
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