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EFI/N2O JUNKIE
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Describe the car. For something that slow, what tire are you running out back to only have 8 psi in them? Seriously, my wives car goes 10.6 in the 1/4 and we run it on a 28x10 at 20psi (bias ply slick). I run 9.5's full out and run 29.5x10.5 at 18psi. Both cars use 15x10 wheels. Both have Glides. Your 60's seem to vary a lot. Ours do not, same typically goes with our 660's. When we see a change in 60 it usually corresponds with the same change in R/T. You stage deeper, you lose ET, and vice-versa.
Always dial what you know you can run! If you are the faster car it makes things easier when you don't know what your car is doing. When you're being chased and you car isn't consistent, you wonder why you even bother...........
 

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Bracket racing is a game of the same, develop a routine, same pressures, same temps, same burnout, same staging, everything the same and get to know what it will run. Many time track champion at our track decided he wanted to go faster this year, built a new engine. He's only been past first round a couple times. Says this engine drives different at the finish line, needs to get more familiar with the combo.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Describe the car. For something that slow, what tire are you running out back to only have 8 psi in them? Seriously, my wives car goes 10.6 in the 1/4 and we run it on a 28x10 at 20psi (bias ply slick). I run 9.5's full out and run 29.5x10.5 at 18psi. Both cars use 15x10 wheels. Both have Glides. Your 60's seem to vary a lot. Ours do not, same typically goes with our 660's. When we see a change in 60 it usually corresponds with the same change in R/T. You stage deeper, you lose ET, and vice-versa.
Always dial what you know you can run! If you are the faster car it makes things easier when you don't know what your car is doing. When you're being chased and you car isn't consistent, you wonder why you even bother...........
76 Nova, not sure what it weighs yet, 355 SBC 750 Holley, pro comp high rise intake, double hump heads that have been ported polished with bigger valves, 580 solid lift cam with valve lash at 024-026, 13:1 running 110 for the moment. Trans is a built glide with 1.89 gears I was told with lightweight planetaries, ptc 8" converter that's between 5k-5500 stall. Backhalved, ladder bar with single adjustable coilovers all around. It drives straight as an arrow and seems to transfer weight consistently at the hit every time. Car is shifting at 6200 currently off the rpm switch. I've heard that shifting off time makes the car more consistent but I don't see how. For tires, I'm running some Hoosier D05 compound 31x14s. They sat for at least 2.5 years but when I ran the car the first time, they were sticky again and still are, so I doubt that the problem rests there but I could be wrong.

I felt that my 60s weren't that bad on inconsistency but maybe the good cars are only 1 hundredth off each other on any given pass and I just don't know it. My water temp is really consistent every time I go to the water box. The trans temp or oil temp I have no idea about... My burnouts could be a little inconsistent as I'm not watching the tach or counting the time I'm in one. I just kind of go by the seat of my pants and when I see smoke in the mirrors, I drive out of it.

I'd like to think that I'm staging the car in the same spot every time. I take my time bumping it in unless I'm the last to go in, then I may roll it in a few inches instead of bumping it in so that I don't get timed out. That's something I'm thinking about changing this weekend, is my staging procedure. I've been staging and then getting the car up to rpms but that's hard to do and I can't spend but a fraction of a second to look at the tach to try and get it as close to the rpm I want to leave at and then look back at the tree and leave. I'm pretty much always the slower car, so I have to be on it. I guess I need to start stalling it to the rpms I want and then staging. The only problem, in my mind, with that is I may not be able to stage it as consistently and that builds more heat in the trans and converter as I'm doing all of that but I probably need to get over that. Maybe I know the brake pedal well enough now to stage it somewhat consistently/shallow with it stalled up. I'm a pretty detail oreinted, I'd like to think. I'm keeping a log of weather conditions and writing that along with my 60s and ets each pass together. I'm trying to keep the fuel at a consistent level, tires are the same pressure each pass (except the other night lol), water temp the same, the car has a good battery and alternator, so I don't think I'm losing any power from the battery and causing the ignition to suffer. I'm trying to be a machine but I don't know if there's something real little that I'm missing or the car needs a tad bit of work or both.
 

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Say no more. Your FIRST. Change nothing. Do nothing different. Next time out will be a different experience. Just roll with it. If, after a year of fighting what you believe to be a losing battle, THEN you can start worrying. However, in the mean time, you will pick up an incredible amount of knowledge. In this day and age, you are competing with "kids" who already have several years of experience in Junior Dragsters. They have it down. Until you do, do not think you are doing something wrong. You aren't. It's paying your dues. And it isn't something you can do in a single season. When you read these folks who claim it's "easy" and/or they won the first bracket race they ever entered, mentally call BS. You now know better. Seat time. There is no substitute. Take care. Tom Worthington
Tom, I was actually in the finals in my very first bracket race. I haven't been that close since then and it's only been 50 years. LOL!
 

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DamCoonass
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OP if there’s any kind of decent crank/rod/pushrod/spring in that engine you should be shifting it at 7000.
Your shift recovery probably sucks at 6200.
 
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Discussion Starter #26
OP if there’s any kind of decent crank/rod/pushrod/spring in that engine you should be shifting it at 7000.
Your shift recovery probably sucks at 6200.
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Unfortunately, the guy I bought it from got it in a trade and didn’t know all of the specs. These are pics from a year ago when I got it and looked into. This engine was a zz4 crate engine at one time. I figured this by the crank number , block number and timing chain cover.(which It is a gm performance crank), 6” h beam rods, no idea on brand. As far as pushrods and springs, I again can’t tell you because he had no clue himself. I bought this thing on a budget and basically for a almost complete ,newly freshened engine for $2250, I couldn’t say no. I’m just thinking that turning this thing a lot of rpms would be a waste since I don’t it can make much power or torque with those heads. That may be something I should try in testing one night for about 3 passes to see what it would do. I’m also trying to make this thing last 2-3 years until I’m comfortable spending more money and know how to work and tune on a more serious engine
 

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No need to spin your shit to the moon bracket racing. Too many people chasing numbers and hp to weight ratios. If it only runs a 7.30 or whatever and its printing tickets dont touch it!! That will come though with seat time. Besides no one remembers if your car runs a 4.40 or 7.40 in bracket racing. Make it consistent, make it fun, and spin it only to wear your budget feels comfortable. Trust me consistency and conservativeness goes a LONG way in bracket racing.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Kinda why I've been babying it since pass #1... I don't see the need for it but maybe I should just go up or maybe even down a few hundred rpms on shifting it to see if there's a sweet spot somewhere in one of those areas that makes it more consistent. That's something I'll just have to try on a TNT night. As for the next time out, I'm going to make more consistent burnouts this Saturday night and have the car stalled up at 2500 and have that done before I stage. Maybe that could make the 60s more consistent instead of staging and trying to get the car around to 3000 before I have to leave. Hoping that will maybe yield me some better results.
 

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DamCoonass
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Kinda why I've been babying it since pass #1... I don't see the need for it but maybe I should just go up or maybe even down a few hundred rpms on shifting it to see if there's a sweet spot somewhere in one of those areas that makes it more consistent. That's something I'll just have to try on a TNT night. As for the next time out, I'm going to make more consistent burnouts this Saturday night and have the car stalled up at 2500 and have that done before I stage. Maybe that could make the 60s more consistent instead of staging and trying to get the car around to 3000 before I have to leave. Hoping that will maybe yield me some better results.
Your 1st sentence is what I was talking about.

Every combo has a sweet spot & a glide car is finicky about shift recovery.

As long as you have the parts to be there it will be more consistent at higher rpm.

7000 is not where it’s making power but it will fall back to a happier place on the shift & be more consistent.

The 357 in my Chevelle was out of power at 6200 but I shifted it at 7000 & won a ton of money with that junker cuz it printed tickets.
 
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As for your staging procedure, I don’t think you’ll have an issue bringing your rpm up to 2500 and then bumping in. That’s how I do it, simply because I don’t want to look away from the tree. And, don’t worry about timing out. As soon as both cars get pre-staged, start bumping in. You’ll have plenty of time, and be more consistent.
 
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