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Discussion Starter #1
I posted about 1 month ago about my sprag going out on my glide and that I was going to buy a new converter..
I went ahead and bought a Hughes Converter from the guy who freshened up my motor and he swears by them.. says he is and has been running them in several of his cars with no problems..

Ok... I've got the car back together and went to the track friday night for test and tune.

but 1st..
Some history on my car since I had just had the engine freshened up.. Car was running 5.78 to a 5.85.. 60ft was 1.26 to 1.28 at 118 mph This was about 2 months ago.

After the sprag went out and I sent the glide back off to be gone through to make sure everything was ok in it..
he said all was good except the sprag and the he sent it back to me.. Then I installed the new converter.. The converter was built specifically for my car.. They had the dyno sheet and the weight and everything about it.
So I was hoping that it might pick up some..

Friday at the track, the temps were in the low 90's.. The car ran a 6.04 right off the trailer and the 60ft was a 1.38 at 113mph..
Next three runs, it went 5.93.. 60ft was a 1.33 to 1.35 at 115 mph.
The car launched like a slug.. Would not even pull the tires off the ground.

Ok.. Then I go to the races saturday and it is hotter.. Temps in the mid to upper 90's and my friend said the air was some of the worse that he has seen in a long time.. My car runs a 6.03 right off the trailer with about the same 60ft times as above.. The best time I could get out of the car was a 5.98 that night..

The converter seems looser to me.. Before when foot braking, I would struggle to get car to 4000rpms before it would push.. Now it gets to 4000 with no problem and It starts to push at 4500..

More info on my car is... It runs on pump gas and a mix of race fuel.. It is really fat.. But it was fat when it was running the 5.80's..


So... What do you think... Is it the air.. the temps.. the converter or a combination of things.. Several others said their car was running a full tenth off old dials... My friend said with the bad temps and the car being so fat that he thought that was the problem.. He does not think its the converter..


Ok... here's something else that happened saturday night.. When I went to back the car up and pull the staging lanes.. All was well. Once in the lanes, I put it in park and shut it off. When I went to pull it forward.. It would not go anywhere. I would have to rev it up to about 2000rpms before it would move. It had no problem going down the track or anything else.. But evertime I pulled in the staging lanes it would do that.. The fluid is full..

What I am planning on checking 1st is... Gonna drain some fluid to make sure there are no shavings in it.. Then I am going to make sure the shift linkage is in the propper spot.. Maybe I have it off a little bit..


So anyway... Sorry for all the questions and all.. But I am trying to learn what I can.. I have only been racing for 1 1/2 years and I have a ton to learn.

I appreciate any and all ideas and suggestions.. And once again.. Thanks for the help..

Oh.. and sorry for the long post.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I shift at 6500... I honestly did not look at tack when I went across finish line.. I meant to.. but never did..

I plan on doing a lot more research the coming weekend..
 

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you need to practice watching HOW the needle moves.....
and see what rpm the needle drops to and how fast it regains to the max rpm that you are looking for.

a part of this is also the ability to breathe steady and evenly so that there is a certain PACE...

this will then give you a view on how to compare the tach needle MOVEMENT as hutch as mentioned....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you for the replies.. I will do my best to check out the tach this coming weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok.. Checked the shift linkage, and it is all in line with the cable, and all gears are where they are susposed to be..

I drained some of the fluid out in a clear glass, and let it sit for awhile, and I held a light up underneath it and looking at the bottom of the cup, you could see some tiny tiny metal in the fluid.. probably the size of dust..

If you looked down in the cup with the light up underneath it.. The fluid looked clear.. It was only if you looked at the bottom of the cup that you could see it.. So I am not sure if this is normal or not..

Guess I will just have to run it again this weekend and see if things get any better or worse..
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok.. more updates.. Raced this last weekend.. Good news is.. I won 1st place in No/E and got 3rd in No/E Quick..

Bad news is.. car would struggle to back up when in reverse unless you really got up on the converter.. Then it still did the same thing in the staging lanes,, Would take a fair amount of RPM to get it to move once it did move,, It was good to go.. No problems doing burnout or even launching..
Got to where I was foot breaking at 4000 to 4300 RPM's and car would pull the wheels just a tad bit..

60 ft was still horrible.. 1.36 to 1.39 Not good.. Used to be 1.26
It was running 116 to 117 mph on the top end at 5.94

Temps were not horrible hot, but were not perfect..

Also checked to see what RPM's were at when I crossed the finish line.. I shift at 6500 and cross finish at 6000 RPM's.. Before this converter, I was shifting at 6500 and crossed line at 6500..

At the end of the night I was having to make runs very close to one another. And my car started slowing down, and people said thay could smell my transmission fluid.. About three times at the top end of the track, I was turning to exit the track, and when I got on the gas, the car would not go.. After about 5 to 10 seconds, the car would go ahead and move after I reved it up some..
My buddy who I raced, said he smelled my transmission fluid when he was exiting the track behind me.

Car slowed down to a 6.07 and on last run, I put a fan up under my car and got some air on it, and the car ran a 6.00.. so I guess I got it cooled down some..

We pulled the transmission lines off the cooler to make sure it was flowing, and it was.. But we were not sure how much it should be flowing...

Anyway, I have a local guy who works on power glides here who is going to come out tonight to hook up a meter to see how much pressure it is flowing.

He and a few others said the seal in the glide may be loose and not letting the car move until the car is reved up and this forces them to seal up and then move again..

He said he would check the pressure and this would give him some sort of idea what he is up against..

So.. hopefully this guy is good.. Looks like I am going to spend my winnings on the glide..

Still think the converter may have something to do with the poor 60ft time... But then again.. I don;t know... Curious if I need to send the converter back and have them tighten it up a little bit..


So.. Whats your opinion on this long Novel that I just wrote ?


Thanks for your help.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, he checked the pressure, and it was a little over 150.. that was in 1st gear and foot breakking it at 1800 rpms.. Thats what the pressure was showing..
 

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Pull the trans and have it fixed. Make sure you also had/have proper converter to flexplate clearance. 150 is too low for line pressure; should be up around 200-225ish for your car.
 

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Sounds like you have 2 problems. Converter and trans. Now if the trans only has 150 psi line pressure at 3500 rpm or more , then the converter likely won't work very well also. If the trans was fixed and had proper pressure , the converter may be ok but you will have to make the call whether or not you are willing to try it before you send it back for adjustment.


Hutch
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The pressure was at 1800 RPM's... Should it have been at 3500 like you mentioned ? I am sorry, I do not know.


Thanks for your help
 
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