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Discussion Starter #1
This is for what you could consider a daily driver, but one making 500+ RWHP and 600+ RWTQ. I live in MD, and it can get up to 95* during the summer, and I would be driving in temps as low as 25-30* in the winter, but only until the first snow or salt on the roads. I had been running Rotella 15w40 since startup, but Im up for another oil change and Reed suggested something with a little more zinc in it like VR1. So I picked up some 10w30 VR1 from napa today as suggested by a guy at Valvoline, but Im wondering if I should be running something a bit thicker?

Motor is a SBM, 360 block, 4" crank, .030 over. Hyd/roller cam, BWS400 turbo.

My motor builder said he set the mains to .003 and the rods to .0025 . Its a street truck, but I do tend to beat on it pretty good, so I want to protect it as best as possible.

Should I stick with the 15w40, and maybe go to something like the Delvac cj-4 plus with more zinc in it like a searched on here and found or??? I'd like to put something in that I can get from my local NAPA, bunch of good guys and good discounts.
 

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Shell Rotella and add some GM EOS? I've got a handfull of bottles if your interested.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I'd rather stay away from additives, not to say they dont work, but I'd rather keep the convenience of picking what I need up locally on the way home from work rather than having to order something. My local napa will get just about anything that I need in. I appreciate the offer though, do you think that the 15w40 is best for my motor though?

My motor builder, who I think has been gaining experience since my build a year and a half ago (nothing against him) originally suggested the rotella, but just told me on the phone today, however, that he switched to joe gibbs 20w50, so I dont know what to think now.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Nobody?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
diesel cj-4 is ok... has pleanty of detergent in it to carry contaminates to filter
20w/50 is also good
being a rolller cam, u pick. either is ok
Thanks, my main concern is the viscosity when hot, for the .003 main clearances. Ive got 38# of pressure even after the restrictor measured at the turbo at idle (hot) but I dont have a gauge other than the factory low/high one on the dash for the engine itself. I dont know anything about this topic at all, just want to make sure Im doing it right!
 

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Discussion Starter #8

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15w40 rotella works very good. Adding a bottle of GM EOS will help protect the pistons skirts from high thrust load scuffing
 

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Discussion Starter #10
15w40 rotella works very good. Adding a bottle of GM EOS will help protect the pistons skirts from high thrust load scuffing
Which I think in my app I have to worry about because I think the pin gets moved up closer to the top of the piston, which makes that situation worse right (360 block, 408 stroker) ?
 

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Which I think in my app I have to worry about because I think the pin gets moved up closer to the top of the piston, which makes that situation worse right (360 block, 408 stroker) ?
Depends on the rod/crank/piston/pin combo, but yes it can be problematic.Still GM EOS is good to add to everything but bradpenn, bradpenn already has the extra amount of additives that eos would add to a oil like rotella
 

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Discussion Starter #12
No experience with brad penn, but Im assuming its just as protective as the Rotella? Never seen anyone say something bad about it on here...

If you had to make the choice, brad penn 15w40 or rotella+EOS 15w40?
 

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bradpenn will be ready to go out of the box, rotella doesn't need EOS but its good practice to add it.
 

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Do you really need all that zinc with a roller cam? I always thought that this was a problem us flat tappet guys have. I run EOS in both my Pontiacs but do not use it in anything newer.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Do you really need all that zinc with a roller cam? I always thought that this was a problem us flat tappet guys have. I run EOS in both my Pontiacs but do not use it in anything newer.
Collins had mentioned the piston skirts, and with my floppy pistons, it probably wouldnt hurt to have it in there. I imagine you can stick with the 3000 mi oil change then with a street driven vehicle, maybe 2000 and then filter every other. I suppose an oil analysis would really tell for sure.
 

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Do you really need all that zinc with a roller cam? I always thought that this was a problem us flat tappet guys have. I run EOS in both my Pontiacs but do not use it in anything newer.
it helps prevent piston skirt scuffing and reduces ring/bore wear
 

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We run the Joe Gibbs oil in our ODR car. It is not DOT approved due to the additives in it. If there is someone local to you that you can get it, I would run it.
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Just a comment on the viscosity, I shoot for 40psi at 8000 rpm. (dry sump system) I think any more pressure than that is a waste. I would think with the clearances you listed, you might need a 40wt.
 

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We run the Joe Gibbs oil in our ODR car. It is not DOT approved due to the additives in it. If there is someone local to you that you can get it, I would run it.
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Joe gibbs makes some very high quality oils and really the DOT dont mean shit, its not like someone is going to get a ticket for oil.
 
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