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Hey guys,

Just wondering if anybody here is using a home made narrowing fixture to narrow rear ends, where they got the stuff from, and how exactly you guys are doing it. Im going to be narrowing my Dana 60 quite soon and I already have the tube, but need to figure out where im going to get/ make pucks from and just a small guide on some do's and dont's when narrowing. Pictures are a bonus!:cool:
 

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One of the biggest things is make sure you weld the bearing/housing ends on last. The tube will more than likely not be straight/square once you're done welding. What matters is that the bearing/housing end is square to the spool, locker, posi. I have done quite a few 9" rear ends, but never a Dana 60. I know there are plans out on the net for making your own jig. Some are real simple to make.
 

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One of the biggest things is make sure you weld the bearing/housing ends on last. The tube will more than likely not be straight/square once you're done welding. What matters is that the bearing/housing end is square to the spool, locker, posi. I have done quite a few 9" rear ends, but never a Dana 60. I know there are plans out on the net for making your own jig. Some are real simple to make.
so are you saying that I should trial fit the diff and axles first and then??? sorry, im a newb and am slightly confused...What would be the order of things after measuring and then cutting the housing...what would i do before welding the ends on for good?
 

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My advice is you take it to a professional... most guys do not charge that much to narrow a housing and will have it done in a day.
 

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My advice is you take it to a professional... most guys do not charge that much to narrow a housing and will have it done in a day.
even 100 bucks is too much for me at this stage..im 21 and broke

I have the fab skills, and have an idea of what needs to be done...just wondering if there is anything in specific that I need to do or watch for
 

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even 100 bucks is too much for me at this stage..im 21 and broke

I have the fab skills, and have an idea of what needs to be done...just wondering if there is anything in specific that I need to do or watch for
ok... given that I would go give plasma or collect bottles or cans becuase you want to make sure this is absolutely done right. :p

or get a big threaded rod a couple of funnels use your imagination.. :rolleyes:
 

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ok... given that I would go give plasma or collect bottles or cans becuase you want to make sure this is absolutely done right. :p

or get a big threaded rod a couple of funnels use your imagination.. :rolleyes:
there is really no need for sarcasm...I dont think you understand that people other than the "professionals" can do the "professionals" job

I can and will do this myself, and im sure it will turn out fine...skeptics can be skeptics, but i was looking for advice on doing it yourself, not advice on how to drop off a diff at a chassis shop
 

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your right you should do it yourself. im 20 years old and just put a full 10 point roll cage in my corvette cost me 300 with everything. everyone said take it to a shop and spend 1500. yeaa ok took 3 weekends but its done and looks awesome. now im putting a straight axle leaf springs and caltracs in it. and you can say you did it. the guys that need everything done by professionals are usually the guys that dont even know what components they have in the engine. they know how to let go of the button and pull the shifter. there was a thread on her acouple of days ago where a guy explained how he did it to make sure the ends were square. if you scroll back acouple pages you could probally find it. goodluck and have fun
 

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your right you should do it yourself. im 20 years old and just put a full 10 point roll cage in my corvette cost me 300 with everything. everyone said take it to a shop and spend 1500. yeaa ok took 3 weekends but its done and looks awesome. now im putting a straight axle leaf springs and caltracs in it. and you can say you did it. the guys that need everything done by professionals are usually the guys that dont even know what components they have in the engine. they know how to let go of the button and pull the shifter. there was a thread on her acouple of days ago where a guy explained how he did it to make sure the ends were square. if you scroll back acouple pages you could probally find it. goodluck and have fun
Amen to that brother!...thanks for the info, ill take a look.
 

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there is really no need for sarcasm...I dont think you understand that people other than the "professionals" can do the "professionals" job

I can and will do this myself, and im sure it will turn out fine...skeptics can be skeptics, but i was looking for advice on doing it yourself, not advice on how to drop off a diff at a chassis shop
:)
Evidently I hit a nerve... :-Daw

my comment about the threaded rod and funnels was part sarcasm and part truth... I have seen some 4wd guys do it before to "center" everything up. :smt115 how well does it work? I have no idea since I have not done that method myself... the difference between a straight housing and one that isn't can be very significant in the amount of "drag" created when turning the rearend. Good luck!:smt023
 

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I was just running this through my head, does anyone think this would work, use the original axles with the outer bearing in place, cut the axles to the desired width and either use a couple straight edges with clamps, or fab some inner only pucks to hold everything straight inside the pumpkin? 1 foot of tubing with the correct inner diameter cut length-wise half and clamp it to the cut axles? Not sure, but it sounds like it would keep everything straight??
 

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Even with a professional jig the tubes are going to move around when you weld them. I have a jig for 9" rear ends and by the time you are done welding and remove the jig the tubes are not perfectly straight and a back brace and the tubes move even more. This is why you weld on the ends last and square them up. Very hard to explain in writing. If you look at narrowed read ends you will see that many times there is a slight offset at the ensd of the axle tubes, where the ends are welded on.

To the OP keep your positive "I can do it" attitude and it will take you a long ways and save you a lot of money. Don't be afraid to make a mistake. You don't learn anything by handing money to people to do your work. This is what hot rodding is supposed to be about. I'll PM you a link to pictures of what I mean by putting the housing ends on last.
 

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This is not a fixture you can make in the garage out of spare parts. If you build a fixture you will need to buy material for at least 3 pucks and a perfectly straight center shaft. Then you will have to pay a machinist to fabricate them unless you have access to this equipment. You will spend more at the machine shop for 2hrs. of labor than it will cost to have it done by someone experienced in doing it. I built the jig I use almost 20 yrs ago and have probably narrowed 100 rears with it. If I were only going to narrow only one, I would pay someone else. Not sure of other's prices, but I charge $100 to narrow. That includes having the rear vatted. Not that expensive.
As stated before, weld the ends on last after all brackets and braces are welded. As you weld the ends on you have to continuously check which way the ends are moving and move your weld to pull the ends back into alignment. Good luck with what ever you decide to do............Toni
 

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Even with a professional jig the tubes are going to move around when you weld them. I have a jig for 9" rear ends and by the time you are done welding and remove the jig the tubes are not perfectly straight and a back brace and the tubes move even more. This is why you weld on the ends last and square them up. Very hard to explain in writing. If you look at narrowed read ends you will see that many times there is a slight offset at the ensd of the axle tubes, where the ends are welded on.

To the OP keep your positive "I can do it" attitude and it will take you a long ways and save you a lot of money. Don't be afraid to make a mistake. You don't learn anything by handing money to people to do your work. This is what hot rodding is supposed to be about. I'll PM you a link to pictures of what I mean by putting the housing ends on last.
thanks for the pm man, I will take a look. I appreciate the explanation also:cool:
 

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This is not a fixture you can make in the garage out of spare parts. If you build a fixture you will need to buy material for at least 3 pucks and a perfectly straight center shaft. Then you will have to pay a machinist to fabricate them unless you have access to this equipment. You will spend more at the machine shop for 2hrs. of labor than it will cost to have it done by someone experienced in doing it. I built the jig I use almost 20 yrs ago and have probably narrowed 100 rears with it. If I were only going to narrow only one, I would pay someone else. Not sure of other's prices, but I charge $100 to narrow. That includes having the rear vatted. Not that expensive.
As stated before, weld the ends on last after all brackets and braces are welded. As you weld the ends on you have to continuously check which way the ends are moving and move your weld to pull the ends back into alignment. Good luck with what ever you decide to do............Toni
its not going to be made from spare parts lol...I already have the long straight shaft, just need to find the material for the pucks...I have access to the machines to machine them

The jig is not going to just be for me, but also for my dad, brother, and anyone else who wants their diff narrowed...time for me doesnt cost me a penny, and if i get to learn something in the process, im more than happy...atleast if i screw it up i can blame myself lol , but i know that aint going to happen

thanks for the kind words and insight though, I appreciate it!
 

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I had my pucks made at a machine shop, i might have $100 in them. I have done 2-8 3/4'' Chryslers, a Dana 60 and my latest was a 9'' Ford which i had to have new pucks made for.So i think my jig paid for itself in my case. Its not that hard , just make sure you weld all your brackets and braces first, the rest is cake !!! The ends will usually be a little offset if you have done a lot of welding on it. I say, Go for it !! Good Luck
 

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I was just running this through my head, does anyone think this would work, use the original axles with the outer bearing in place, cut the axles to the desired width and either use a couple straight edges with clamps, or fab some inner only pucks to hold everything straight inside the pumpkin? 1 foot of tubing with the correct inner diameter cut length-wise half and clamp it to the cut axles? Not sure, but it sounds like it would keep everything straight??
A friend of mine did 1 like this for a 55 F-100,been 20 yrs. and never had a problem.He did say he would pay someone next time,for what little it cost compared to the time he had involved though.
 

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Hey sorry to bring up an old thread, but there is a lot of good info in here.

I'm building a narrowed 9" Once all welded up, my alignment bar spins freely installed through all fixtures. Installing or taking out the fixtures on the ends though while the rod is still installed they move a little. They push back in pretty easy, but you can tell they are slightly off. My question is, how much is too much misalignment? Am I going to have problems are nah? Didn't know if it all had to be dead nuts or if just a tad of misalignment is OK.

Thanks
 
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