Yellow Bullet Forums banner

201 - 220 of 256 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
343 Posts
Discussion Starter #202
Long time no post huh? Don't you guys & gals think I've forgotten about updating this build. I've been super busy but we'll let you be the judge. This is 7th major update entry in this build thread. As any other good read this update is filled with plenty of ups & downs. To kick it off the realization several switches were going to be required to activate/trigger devices that were to be installed. Originally I wanted to repurpose the factory headlight wash, heated mirror, & adjustable suspension switches but my shifter location axed that idea. I chose rocker switches with built in LED’s. Then determined how many switches & how much real estate was required. These were functions/devices that would need switches data log, 2step, Line lock, & boost control. A AEM 12 position trim pot switch was selected for boost control. This way many different boost levels could be achieved with just a twist of a knob. 7 Rocker switches would suffice for the rest & leave extras for future use. The A/C control panel is easily accessible by the driver & wasn't needed. It's location was perfect. With all my switches chosen, I disassembled the A/C control panel saving just the "case". Which was trimmed down to accommodate the switch wires. 1/4 inch ABS plastic was used to make a faceplate that would hold the switches. I drilled holes into the faceplate after the orientation of all switches were determined. To attach the faceplate & case blind holes were made on back of the faceplate. So screws could secure them together. The trim pot switch came with stickers that numbered all 12 positions. A area the same size as said stickers was routed smooth to prevent them peeling from the faceplate. Then switches were installed into the faceplate.*
https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/1-Switch-Panel/i-cxZdtLc/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/1-Switch-Panel/i-cKHJ6rQ/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/1-Switch-Panel/i-d4HxN5h/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/1-Switch-Panel/i-3FrszmQ/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/1-Switch-Panel/i-xgKw5d7/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/1-Switch-Panel/i-L8sNVqf/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/1-Switch-Panel/i-68ksMCS/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/1-Switch-Panel/i-GdKPqxR/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/1-Switch-Panel/i-XMdzbcB/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/1-Switch-Panel/i-XPZcLDn/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/1-Switch-Panel/i-CSsgQZK/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/1-Switch-Panel/i-BJ9rQPN/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/1-Switch-Panel/i-FJRk7Jq/A][/url
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
343 Posts
Discussion Starter #203
I felt my previous breaker & relay setup looked too "busy". This was easily cleaned up by making a new panel for them to mount to. The panel also has extra room for future breakers.

Previous setup

https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Previously-posted-build-pics-5/11-break-wire/i-pbQHp6k/A][/url


New Setup

[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/2-Breaker-Panel/i-PvV5Ttp/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/2-Breaker-Panel/i-XWJcXGw/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/2-Breaker-Panel/i-XqThkdC/A][/url

Another fuse box was added to the mix. Knowing more devices would inevitably find their way into the build & would need a fused power source. I wanted all my additional fuse boxes to be in the same general area (above passenger foot well). Space was an issue. 1/4 inch ABS plastic was used to create a panel for the additional fuse box & ground distribution block. A stainless steel piano hinge was attached to the panel. Which allowed it swing down from underneath the glove box. The breaker & relay for the fuse box was also be mounted to this panel. A magnet prevented this panel from swinging down unexpectedly. With swing down panel completed, power & ground wires were ran to the rocker switches. Additional LED's were installed for the line lock, 2 step & data log switch. The line lock LED is solid red when active. The 2 step LED flashes red when active. As for the datalog LED it flashes blue when active. To make the leds flash, I used CEC Industries EF32RL Electronic LED Turn Signal Flasher Relays.*

[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/3-Flip-Down-Panel/i-vPXDqdP/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/3-Flip-Down-Panel/i-gqfLbCh/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/3-Flip-Down-Panel/i-scDpxzv/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/3-Flip-Down-Panel/i-vLSBKWX/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/3-Flip-Down-Panel/i-TxcpPfN/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/3-Flip-Down-Panel/i-NDKBW3c/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/3-Flip-Down-Panel/i-Xg6wzdX/A][/url
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
343 Posts
Discussion Starter #204
While tuning my car one day, I ran out of fuel due to the lack of a fuel gauge. The factory sending unit & gauge cluster in my car were inoperative when I purchased the car. So a Intellitronix LED analog bargraph gauge was added. Intellitronix appealed to me because it's made in the USA, they have good customer service, I liked it's appearance & price point. As for a fuel sending unit a Bosch unit (part# SP0F000013) was chosen. The factory sending unit was stripped down & the Bosch unit was modified to fit it. I even retained the factory plug. A yellow w/red stripe wire was used for the fuel gauge signal wire. This wire can be found on the left(driver) harness near the dead pedal.*
https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/4-Fuel-Gauge-Bosch-Sender/i-kwcs4n6/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/4-Fuel-Gauge-Bosch-Sender/i-hcPJ4KJ/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/4-Fuel-Gauge-Bosch-Sender/i-ZhDKrzf/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/4-Fuel-Gauge-Bosch-Sender/i-6nCpr53/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/4-Fuel-Gauge-Bosch-Sender/i-CtdDDPR/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/4-Fuel-Gauge-Bosch-Sender/i-8gG7G3m/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/4-Fuel-Gauge-Bosch-Sender/i-P6CPQmp/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/4-Fuel-Gauge-Bosch-Sender/i-bPMwbqj/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/4-Fuel-Gauge-Bosch-Sender/i-ZbvTQfp/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/4-Fuel-Gauge-Bosch-Sender/i-5tQVK6b/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/4-Fuel-Gauge-Bosch-Sender/i-pP5S4D7/A][/url
[url=https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/4-Fuel-Gauge-Bosch-Sender/i-KgTRWct/A]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
343 Posts
Discussion Starter #206
Fuel level wasn't the only thing my dash was missing. The factory gauge cluster leaves very much to be desired IMO. I began investigating & pricing out different gauge solutions. Speedhut, Autometer, & Racepak setups would've been a small fortune. My search ended when I stubbled upon Nick Pahls & few others using displays backed with Raspberry Pi 3B's as gauge clusters. Until this moment I had been using a laptop to monitor everything while driving the car. These Pi setups could be built for*relatively*cheap especially if you code everything yourself. Unfortunately my heavily congested work schedule wouldn't allow me enough time for learning how to code. Luckily Nick Pahls ran a site/group called Raspberry Pi dashboard aka Pidash. Which offered plug & play solution for only 275$. It's a little more expensive than building it yourself but it's convenient & still very affordable honestly. The PiDash uses Tunerstudio*so you can view gauges, make changes*to your tune, Datalog, & view datalogs. It's touch screen, supports gps speedometer, endlessly configurable, has built in WiFi, has built in Bluetooth*so you can wirelessly upload/download files & connect to the internet. This was my solution. He also partnered with Custom Instrument Panels that was offering 3D printed clusters for just 50$(what a deal!) The pidash was accompanied by GlobalSat BU-353-S4-5Hz USB GPS Receiver & back lit Rii i8+ Mini Wireless Keyboard with built in Touchpad Mouse. I recieved the pidash & accessories lightning quick. Then sent my original gauge cluster out to Custom Instrument Panels. While waiting for the 3D cluster, I setup the Pidash. A word of advice, use a desktop when designing your guage cluster for the Pidash. Use a cellphone charger to power the Pidash so you can test your gauges. This would've made things SOOOOO much easier & faster. Apparently I prefer to do things the hard way, aka doing it in the car with my mini keyboard. A 5v power supply was hardwired to supply power to the Pidash. I opted to have it on a switch instead of it powering on with 12v switched. That way I can have it on without the car being on. A spare usb cord was also connected to the Pidash & installed inside my ash tray so thumb drives could easily be connected. I've got to give mad props & thanks to Nick Pahls for badass customer service. This man answered every dumbass question I’ve had & provided tech support at all times of day/night even at 4am sometimes. I couldn't be happier with his*product*& support!

https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/6-Pi-Dash/i-FVDRmZC/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/6-Pi-Dash/i-XRHNqmh/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/6-Pi-Dash/i-LNVhf6c/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/6-Pi-Dash/i-2RBfQN4/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/6-Pi-Dash/i-S2JQc6C/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/6-Pi-Dash/i-Q2GsN7V/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/6-Pi-Dash/i-VmT7TQQ/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/6-Pi-Dash/i-HqpSj2X/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/6-Pi-Dash/i-szMc6Fb/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/6-Pi-Dash/i-MrCkppZ/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/6-Pi-Dash/i-5DMZv4T/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/6-Pi-Dash/i-Kf8ZcSF/A][/url

Easy access USB extension

[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/6-Pi-Dash/i-4srxV9K/A][/url
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
343 Posts
Discussion Starter #208
The Pidash was followed by installing interior. This meant converting to black interior pieces, new carpet & replacing the padless factory seats (field mice ate all the padding). Before the carpet could be installed a couple panels would be needed. One to cover the surge tank & fuel cooler. Another to seal off the factory shifter hole. The foam tool tray was shaved down to level floor above the surge tank & fuel cooler panel. This maintained a flat floor in the hatch area. Then the shifter hole was blocked off by another panel.*

Tool tray panel

https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/7-Tool-Tray-Shifter-Panel-Tool-Foam/i-n7MDz8m/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/7-Tool-Tray-Shifter-Panel-Tool-Foam/i-ZNNBDwr/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/7-Tool-Tray-Shifter-Panel-Tool-Foam/i-LGXjNKv/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/7-Tool-Tray-Shifter-Panel-Tool-Foam/i-cVBjCzB/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/7-Tool-Tray-Shifter-Panel-Tool-Foam/i-MBk225f/A][/url

Shifter panel

[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/7-Tool-Tray-Shifter-Panel-Tool-Foam/i-36NgcDj/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/7-Tool-Tray-Shifter-Panel-Tool-Foam/i-zbSDZ6H/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/7-Tool-Tray-Shifter-Panel-Tool-Foam/i-c2g3CtR/A][/url
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
343 Posts
Discussion Starter #209
The brown ebrake made its way into the trash & was replaced with a black unit. When I purchased this car the factory carpet had already been removed. The previous owner "installed" old house carpet in its place. American Custom Carpets Molded Mass backed Essex black carpet was ordered. It's super plush & far more superior when compared to factory carpet. Of course factory carpet has a little better fit especially in the corners & tool tray area. ACC offerings are the only option(s) available for the Z31. Factory carpet is NLA (No Longer Available) good luck finding BNIB (Brand New In Box) carpet now days. A old socket was heated with a torch to create nice clean holes for bolts. This will keep the carpet from fraying while creating a perfect circular hole. I salvaged plastic carpet clips from the junk yard & stapled them onto the new carpet. These clips hold the carpet tight to the door sill area.*

https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/8-Carpet-E-Brake-Handle/i-5549Cb4/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/8-Carpet-E-Brake-Handle/i-tKCKd9p/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/8-Carpet-E-Brake-Handle/i-wGC4vh6/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/8-Carpet-E-Brake-Handle/i-ffK6V8w/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/8-Carpet-E-Brake-Handle/i-nvBHLmP/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/8-Carpet-E-Brake-Handle/i-g77VpGM/A][/url
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
343 Posts
Discussion Starter #210
With carpet installation complete, the hunt was on for a functional seating solution. I wanted something lightweight & fixed back. Z31's don't really accommodate most aftermarket race seats too well. Shoulder pads of most seats will hit the door panel or window when installed. Some seats even touch the roof. Many of my friends had fading issues with entry level Sparcos & knock off seats. My decision was quickly made after sitting in my friends car equipped with Kirkey Pro Street Drag seats. Little did I know these seats & covers were on back order. Several weeks went by but none of the major suppliers had*received*their shipment. Summit Racing got me in direct contact with Kirkey. Kirkey drop shipped the seats to me once they were completed. The seats arrived here all the way from Canada to Texas within 48hrs! The same for the seat covers. But those weren't completed for another 11 days. My foamless factory manual seats weighed over 37lbs each! That's without the rails. The Kirkey's only weigh 11.6lbs each. That's over a 25lb weight savings per seat. The Kirkey's were mounted to the factory manual rails using Kirkey side mounts. Factory manual Z31 seat brackets are double locking. It's crazy how similar Sparco & Corbeau rails are to my factory rails. These seats were pretty comfortable even without the padded covers installed.


https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/9-Kirkeys/i-XMzjNPz/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/9-Kirkeys/i-MBp7p5P/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/9-Kirkeys/i-bqpSfLv/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/9-Kirkeys/i-5dwGfNt/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/9-Kirkeys/i-cxdmJCG/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/9-Kirkeys/i-hQbW56w/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/9-Kirkeys/i-RnW6Z6r/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/9-Kirkeys/i-fPRcznX/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/9-Kirkeys/i-cTgz4Dd/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/9-Kirkeys/i-fjDXRZq/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/9-Kirkeys/i-2HGCdCk/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/9-Kirkeys/i-4Fp9Md8/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/9-Kirkeys/i-Bx238zX/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/9-Kirkeys/i-gLQQCLX/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/9-Kirkeys/i-ZqVJ3kq/A][/url
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
343 Posts
Discussion Starter #212
The remaining items required more work than I had perceived. Obviously the Z31 coupe is different from the 2+2 version. I assumed the only difference between the slick top & t-top versions was only headliner & weather stripping. You know what they say happens when you assume. You make an ass out of you and me. The following parts are different between the slick top & t-top versions. A pillar panels, B pillar panels, rear quarter window panels, headliner, weather stripping, & coat hooks. Luckily for me I saved my original slick top panels. Black interior pieces are hard to find, so are slick top pieces, but black slick top pieces are even harder to find. My original Panels were brown but I changed them to black thanks to SEM products. First the panels were all cleaned with hot water & Dawn dish soap. The panels were then scrubbed clean with SEM 39362 Soap. SEM 38353 Plastic Prep was used to clean any oils & contaminants from the panels. Not wanting to chance the color coat flaking off over time SEM 39863 Plastic Adhesion Promoter was applied. Now the SEM 15013 Landau Black Color Coat could be applied. The results are amazing. You can't even tell what is factory black or what's painted. I opted to install rivnuts to secure the door sills instead of using the factory "fastening system".* A brain fart came when I went to install my black door panels. I totally forgot the interior door handle is high up 84-85 models vs "centered" on 86-89 models. Everything previously covered was in preparation of attending my 1st car show/event with my Z31. It was just 24hrs away. I was dead set on having the interior as complete as possible. Luckily I was able to score a spare set of doors from my local pick-n-pull. I quickly swapped the doors out. My original door lock cylinders were then swapped into the "new" doors prior to installing the black door panels. New door switch covers were also installed.*

https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/11-Interior-Panels/i-c8tr8vB/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/11-Interior-Panels/i-QF8M4H9/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/11-Interior-Panels/i-4GGSrzr/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/12-Door-DOH/i-8VPV9Fg/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/12-Door-DOH/i-Qjw3LLP/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/12-Door-DOH/i-h2rXpV2/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/12-Door-DOH/i-nP75dQR/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/12-Door-DOH/i-nXvhwdm/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/12-Door-DOH/i-g7c6ZSq/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/12-Door-DOH/i-z7rC5X2/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/11-Interior-Panels/i-HCkJ4L7/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/11-Interior-Panels/i-99QWPWq/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/11-Interior-Panels/i-52PCBP7/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/11-Interior-Panels/i-kxWQxDH/A][/url
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
343 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
343 Posts
Discussion Starter #218
My factory antenna was inoperative. Upon further inspection the "cord" for the mast was broken into several pieces. I picked up a Z32 unit from a friend. Which was sacrificed to rebuild my Z31 unit. The mast & a few other components are interchangeable. Prior to installing the mast I cleaned all the old grease from the Z31 assembly. Then packed it with fresh dielectric grease during assembly. Here's some pics.
Z31 Antenna.


https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/16-Antenna-Rebuild/i-g7TvTj4/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/16-Antenna-Rebuild/i-PPRDCc5/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/16-Antenna-Rebuild/i-zPHVwXK/A][/url

Z31 VS Z32 Antenna.

[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/16-Antenna-Rebuild/i-ZnVPBJ2/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/16-Antenna-Rebuild/i-CV7RCzJ/A][/url

Z31 Antenna rebuild.

[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/16-Antenna-Rebuild/i-TRw4R6q/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/16-Antenna-Rebuild/i-rgmD2Tn/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/16-Antenna-Rebuild/i-Fj5cBRH/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/16-Antenna-Rebuild/i-KV3h8WG/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/16-Antenna-Rebuild/i-CwZdfZv/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/16-Antenna-Rebuild/i-ghwv6tz/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/16-Antenna-Rebuild/i-sDHfWLg/A][/url
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
343 Posts
Discussion Starter #219
All the factory speakers & speaker wiring was removed. I went to local car audio shops to compare several different speakers. To be "budget" friendly I chose 6.5in Alpine SPR-60C Type-R components for the fronts & Alpine SPR-60 6.5in Coaxial 2-Way Type-R speakers for the rear.*

https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/17-Speakers-Amp-Tweeters/i-fhkn8Xd/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/17-Speakers-Amp-Tweeters/i-TSwZWZx/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/17-Speakers-Amp-Tweeters/i-XCSWF4W/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/17-Speakers-Amp-Tweeters/i-7gJm6bC/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/17-Speakers-Amp-Tweeters/i-9XkzjLT/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/17-Speakers-Amp-Tweeters/i-sJkHjS4/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/17-Speakers-Amp-Tweeters/i-2KrdhX3/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/17-Speakers-Amp-Tweeters/i-dgWR4f4/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/17-Speakers-Amp-Tweeters/i-pKZmfN3/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/17-Speakers-Amp-Tweeters/i-BgQFDkm/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/17-Speakers-Amp-Tweeters/i-bkbR4jn/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/17-Speakers-Amp-Tweeters/i-xpKcNvb/A][/url
[url=https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/17-Speakers-Amp-Tweeters/i-JLh8d7b/A]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
343 Posts
Discussion Starter #220
These were powered by a 600w Kenwood 22154656 Compact 4 Channel Digital Amplifier. This thing is tiny & has a foot print almost the size of a dollar bill. It's power output is crazy for it's size. There's several amp dyno videos showing just how capable this amp is. It's connected to the head unit with Rockford Fosgate rca's.


https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/17-Speakers-Amp-Tweeters/i-NxfRW78/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/17-Speakers-Amp-Tweeters/i-GXJvz8S/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/17-Speakers-Amp-Tweeters/i-X8t7bx7/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/17-Speakers-Amp-Tweeters/i-QJ7xCjB/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/17-Speakers-Amp-Tweeters/i-kKj9fjL/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/17-Speakers-Amp-Tweeters/i-rwgf8x8/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/17-Speakers-Amp-Tweeters/i-FhKn7MX/A][/url



12ga OFC (Oxygen Free Copper) was used to wire all 4 speakers. All wires were labeled with heat shrink using my Dymo label maker. The mounting bracket for factory security system box along with 1/4 inch ABS plastic were used to mount the amp underneath the passenger seat.*

[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/17-Speakers-Amp-Tweeters/i-rcq3PPc/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/17-Speakers-Amp-Tweeters/i-vF9pH43/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/17-Speakers-Amp-Tweeters/i-9HhwJVX/A][/url
[url=]https://turbolsxz31.smugmug.com/Update-70/Posted-Build-Pics-7/17-Speakers-Amp-Tweeters/i-4sr6S49/A][/url
 
201 - 220 of 256 Posts
Top