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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 4sec coupe only had a little 10 point in it and after racing this year 2 cars out of a few dozen races this year crashed pretty bad while I was racing them. So me and Brandon said time to add some bars.
Well I baught a bender and tubing and here we go.

Started this evening.

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The two down bars from the seat belt bar we did first. They hit the sub frame
Connectors.
Then the back bars 1.5 going to the rear of the car hit the upper control arm boxes.
Then u see the funny car cage starting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The two down bars from the seat belt bar we did first. They hit the sub frame
Connectors.
Then the back bars 1.5 going to the rear of the car hit the upper control arm boxes.
Then u see the funny car cage starting.
 

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You should grind the coating off that CM tube at the notches, it will weld a lot nicer. Just use a scotch brite type pad on a grinder.
 

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If I'm looking at this correctly I don't like the down bars. There's nothing on the opposite side of the shoulder bar. That thing will flex like a wet noodle. They should intersect at the shoulder bar/main hoop.
Doug
 

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Are you building to a specific SFI spec? I would at least get the applicable spec and try to stay as close to it even if you are just running outlaw tracks. x2 on the cleaning of the mill scale.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
We are building to spec and cert the cage 7.50
We are not done obviously and still have lots of
Bars to put in.

I will start grinding the mil coating off the cm.

Keep in mind were no chassis shop lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Mainly doing the addition for safety not to concerned for spec car is mid 4s 1/8 so a 10 point wasn't cutting it.
 

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Mainly doing the addition for safety not to concerned for spec car is mid 4s 1/8 so a 10 point wasn't cutting it.
That's good your upgradeing because of your concern about your safety. So many upgrade cages only because they have to because of the rule book.
 
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