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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone had issues with the starter saver causing an ignition breakdown under a load at high rpm? Been chasing an ignition issue and did not think about unhooking it to see.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I took the starter saver out today. After removing it I checked the timing , it was 4 degrees retarded at 1,250 rpm. Hooked it back up and it advanced 4 degrees. The tech is also jumpy when the starter saver is hook up.
 

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Mine was a Flexplate eater. Got rid of it and changed my starting procedure.
Locked out at 40 degrees and no problems.
 

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Not the Starter Saver but my timing computer has a 20° start retard. With a correctly phased distributor and large cap, I don't have any issues.
 

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If my research is any good, it seems to be somewhat related to cap size. The larger diameter cap seems to have less trouble than the smaller diameter.
 

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Thing is a pos. I ran it for a while and my engine would shut off whenever it chose to do so. It would always start right back up but would inadvertently shut the engine off in no particular measure of time. I removed the device and the issue went away.
 

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20* is too much retard on start up, that will create ahold other set of problems along with killing ring gears and starters.
I've always heard people say that, but then you see distributors with even more mechanical advance.

It just doesn't add up to me. If it works fine with 20° or more of mechanical advance, it should work fine with the distributor locked and a 20° retard.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
One last thing at the last trip to the track the two step stopped working. After I unhook the starter saver we tried it again and it work. Hooked it back up no two step. We will see if it was causing the brack down tomorrow night. Thanks for the insights
 

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I've always heard people say that, but then you see distributors with even more mechanical advance.

It just doesn't add up to me. If it works fine with 20° or more of mechanical advance, it should work fine with the distributor locked and a 20° retard.
With the 20* retard where does that put your timing at?
 

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12-16°, depending on if I have my timing reduced for pump gas.
I was running an MSD pro billet locked out at 31* on a 600 hp 408 cleveland, 12.8:1 on pump 94. When I was at the dyno I learned that it wanted to be at 20 or more degrees advanced to start up well, and it has always started great even locked out at 31* . It did not like a curve or initial at 12* as far as starting goes.
 

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I was running an MSD pro billet locked out at 31* on a 600 hp 408 cleveland, 12.8:1 on pump 94. When I was at the dyno I learned that it wanted to be at 20 or more degrees advanced to start up well, and it has always started great even locked out at 31* . It did not like a curve or initial at 12* as far as starting goes.
A start retard isn't a ignition curve. Different ones bring the timing in differently, but they go back to full timing very quickly. The initial burp of rpm should be enough to deactivate the retard, as soon as the engine lights off. Only having 12°of initial timing is a completely different story, my car idles like shit with anything under 20°.

And for the most part, my car still started fine with the timing locked at 36°. I bought the timing control for the step retards but it has other features as well, might as well use them.
 

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OK. Yes I understand its not a curve, I was under the impression that you were having issues with it starting with the retard
 

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My buddy hooked one up last year and it actually advanced the timing when cranking! We reversed polarity on the leads and it worked fine after that!
 
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