Been giving my 2003 Cobra 2.3 whipple a workout for the last year (almost exactly) and 11K miles. I started noticing intermittent cooling issues in the last couple weeks So yesterday while leaving for work (temps at 90C on test mode), winding the car up in 1st had catastrophic results. I have not torn down the motor yet, but I believe at this point, given how quickly it happened I dropped a valve. Literally within 1 millisecond there was a cloud of burning oil smoke and some of the nastiest sounds I ever heard in my life. Given the car shaking from side to side, I assume to be a completely demolished piston.
Background
H-13 Tool Steel .200" Wall Wrist Pins
Valve Reliefs
No coatings
I want to run 04 9 thread heads, but I'm unsure what if any valvetrain mods I should be running. I was spinning mine to 7K which is apparently about the limits of the ford ECU. But I would like to build the valvetrain to take 8500rpms if possible. Not because I will use that regularly (but would love to every once and a blue moon once I get a stand alone), but I would just prefer the valvetrain to be working far below its ability.
My fuel system at this point is going to be inadequate. So I've been desperately trying to spec out a whole fuel system without buying on off the shelf kit. Mostly because I want the control of buying the correct items, not to mention the savings of buying them that way. Having sold car parts pretty heavily the last couple years, I know it is a tendency of high performance retailers to throw in cheap replacements when they run out of the good stuff to keep a sale. You ditch your brand name fittings and lines and throw in some ones from eBay. I see this happen frequently and I don't want to be buying another engine if I don't have to, I'm going all out this time.
So far for the E85 switch over, here's what I know will work given my needs
I'm also trying to figure out who makes some good fuel lines and fittings, rather than just buying the lethal kit.
Pictures of my wounded kitten. It is a 100% street car. Any help is appreciated in specing this out.
Background
- Whipple 2.3 17-19lbs w/ twin ford gt supercar pumps
- ARP headbolts
- Unknown cams (original builder gone, records only state stage 3 cams, but they're mild. So maybe Crower Stage 3s?)
- Stock shortblock w/ CP pistons
- McLeod RXT w/ 26 spline input shaft & MGW shifter
- Billetflow IRS brace, Delrin bushings for the IRS (some FTBR some Drop Engineering)
- Bassani midlength headers, offroad x & steeda (borla) catback
- Billet pulleys
- Other misc : Innovate wideband on column, crossdrilled and slotted rotors, steeda drop, 10.5 replicas with Nitto 555Rs
- 586rwhp 556rwtq
- Teksid block w/ assembly by either L&M or someone with roughly the same street cred. Trying to stay away from bargain builders.
- Kellogg Forged 8 Bolt Crankshaft
- Manley Pro Billet 5.933" Connecting Rods / 7/16" ARP 2000 Bolts
- Diamond 4.6L Forged Pistons -19cc dish and offet pins
H-13 Tool Steel .200" Wall Wrist Pins
Valve Reliefs
No coatings
- Total Seal AP Steel Coated Piston Ring Set w/ Napier 2nd Rings
- Clevite 77 H-Series Rod & Main Bearings
I want to run 04 9 thread heads, but I'm unsure what if any valvetrain mods I should be running. I was spinning mine to 7K which is apparently about the limits of the ford ECU. But I would like to build the valvetrain to take 8500rpms if possible. Not because I will use that regularly (but would love to every once and a blue moon once I get a stand alone), but I would just prefer the valvetrain to be working far below its ability.
My fuel system at this point is going to be inadequate. So I've been desperately trying to spec out a whole fuel system without buying on off the shelf kit. Mostly because I want the control of buying the correct items, not to mention the savings of buying them that way. Having sold car parts pretty heavily the last couple years, I know it is a tendency of high performance retailers to throw in cheap replacements when they run out of the good stuff to keep a sale. You ditch your brand name fittings and lines and throw in some ones from eBay. I see this happen frequently and I don't want to be buying another engine if I don't have to, I'm going all out this time.
So far for the E85 switch over, here's what I know will work given my needs
- Division X fuel rail w/ remote mount & fittings AN8 feeds
- Behind bars racing 18 gallon tank 12 Female feed 8 Female Return 8 Female vent
- ID1000 injectors (until I spray the car, after which I'll need ID2000s... bastards are pricey!)
I'm also trying to figure out who makes some good fuel lines and fittings, rather than just buying the lethal kit.
Pictures of my wounded kitten. It is a 100% street car. Any help is appreciated in specing this out.




