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Morrison supercar Beretta

3304 Views 49 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  mrdragster1970
So I bought a Morrison Supercar Beretta , almost ready to run . Some minor mods to get me fitting in the car .
Unfortunately the previous owner had some uninvited guests in his workshop years ago who stole all his tools and toolboxes . As in every toolbox , the top drawer was full of paperwork . In this case all the stuff from the car.
Therefore I am looking into getting as many infos and original paperwork of this type of car as I can . Does anybody owns such a car and send me some more infos about it ? Buildplans , setup infos etc….
The car hasn t run in years and the previous owner didn t remember much .
I would be highly thankfull to get some infos about how to set up such a car on the wheels , camber Toe in , maybee a little about the 4 link ?
I never owned a car with offset frontwheels for example ….
Thanks in advance to share your experience with me.
Best regards
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Thanks a lot , i spoke to them before opening this thread.
Due to the fact this is a very old car/design they do not have any data on those kits anymore. That s why i try my luck to find another owner
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Reher Morrison might of ran that type of car at some point and they might be able to point in you in the right direction.

Thank you , I will give it a try
You might search for the issues of Car Craft where they built the 55 Chevy using the kit. It had lots of info on those cars. Setting it up when ready to race shouldnt be a problem.
I am from Luxembourg (Europe) so finding Car Craft magazine want be easy. Can anybody help me out on some basics like front wheel camber , toe in of the wheels . This would give me a great start already
Up to now i raced a 1958 VW Bug . Slightly different ;)
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I have a Beretta race car, I built in 1990 took me 1 yr 7 months start to finish. A VFN fiberglass body, tube chassis, strut car, 9 inch, 4 link car from an Alston chassis kit. This was a purpose built S/G car with a high crank centerline for pro tree racing, now run local top doorslammer 1/8 mile. Currently 555 BBC with glide, single dominator. Been racing it for 30 years, but I have kept it current with lots of maintenance and parts.
They make a decent race car, pretty good windshield angle, although a little tight getting in and out of with a F/C cage. The car is narrow, with decent leg room and 105 inch wheelbase, so it handles pretty well.
If you have a strut chassis you want 0 degree camber, 9 to 10 degrees positive caster, and 1/8 inch total toe in. These figures are at ride height. Make absolutely sure to check for bumpsteer ! I personally don't like a car with stagger.
If you need any further information, let me know.
I am not familiar with the Morrison chassis designs.....
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Now that is some real good infos . Thanks a lot !
how do i check for bumpsteer ?
never done that before
Keep us updated with pictures and engine information, ect., thanks.
Now that is some real good infos . Thanks a lot !
how do i check for bumpsteer ?
never done that before
After you align the front suspension and get all the dimensions correct at ride height, jack up the chassis with the jack centered under the front crossmember until the front tires just begin to come up off the ground barely. Now recheck your toe in. It MUST not change, if the rack is mounted at the right height, and correct front to rear in relation to the steering arms, it will not change. Do not run the car until this is correct!
Ah I see what you mean . Thanks for this I will check it once I am at this point ;)

the car has 434 CUI small block chevy from Engelage in Germany . Estimated at 850 hp .
2 speed glide . Ran a 8,8 on the 1/4 but overall only around 50 passes on the car and not dialed in 100 % yet . So i guess there is still some room for improvement ;)
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Wow no idea what is going on here …
Check my steering arms . This is not as it is supposed to be , or is this normal on a car with staggered wheels ?
the one bend more is located on the trailing wheel

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I took this as a „Strange“ Setup where the steeringarms should ve straight .
am i wrong on this ?
First are you sure the chassis is built with stagger? I say this because I've seen, and had to fix cars that had no stagger in the chassis ( the upper strut mount was mounted the same distance from firewall) and someone had 10 degrees positive caster in one side, and had something like 2 degrees in the other side, trying to get stagger, which is not safe.
I'm assuming you have a mid plate mount in the chassis, clamp a long straight edge to the midplate running side to side as close to the height of your upper strut mount as possible. Now measure straight from that straight edge to the center of the strut mount hole on each side. If that measurement is pretty much equal, there is no stagger built in the chassis. Is the rack mounted equal dimension side to side measuring from the mid plate?
Are the mounting tabs for the lower control arms on the frame rails the same distance side to side from the midplate?
I have never seen one steering arm bent like that, any evidence of the car being wrecked on the side of the bent steering arm? Welds look the same side to side on the strut and control arm mounts?
Can you post a picture of both lower control arm assemblies side by side?
Also a picture of the rack mounted in the chassis, I can only see a small part of the right bellows.
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The car has never been wrecked , the previous owner was the only owner , i talked to the tuner who gave them a hand to build the car. He confirmed all this .
the lower control arm brackets are exactly 1 inch offset to each other . The upper strut mount has even more . Around 2 inches 2,5 inches .
Here you find some pics .
i think they bent the steering arms because they where interfering with the wheels . Instead of putting spacers under the wheels ,they did this and it was still tight .
here are some pics
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OK, I see where the stagger is built in correctly, the rack appears to be mounted correctly, the bent steering arm will likely cause a problem with bump steer.
When caster and camber is adjusted and correct, side to side especially caster, with the chassis at ride height, if you look front to rear level with the steering arm and look at the angle of the lower control arm and the angle of the rack steering arm, they should be the same, if not, the bump steer will be off. It can be corrected, with shimming either up or down of the rack, or rod end at the steering arm.
So my idea to straighten the 2 steering arms would be correct and then go from scratch and adjust the rack pinion or rod end as required parallel to the lower supports
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