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Discussion Starter #1
I have started this thred because this is not a easy task . I decided to test fit the engine in the car and got to work on the cross member . Had I not cut the cross member it would have been a B###h to get the engine in . So I hacked away and boxed the frame were I cut and welded in a new crossmember . after all of that work got a friend over and we stabbed the engine in . I went with the solid MOROSO engine mounts Part #62515 which were a little taller than the big block mounts . After all the work here are the pics of how it looked


 

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Discussion Starter #2
The prob that I am having is the tierod end his hitting the bottom of the pan when you turn to the left anyone have a fix for this prob besides a rack system ?
 

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Glad somebody wrote this up, thanks! Had you not cut the crossmember, would the pan clear the crossmember with the taller moroso mounts? I heard that it does, but barely. How much can you steer the car before the tie rods hit the pan? and does it hit the pan in both steering directions?

also wondering why it would be a bitch to install the engine if you didn't remove the crossmember?

When i asked about running this pan in a Chevelle, people said to use heim joints on the inner tie rods to gain more clearance, use spacers to limit the amount of steering, grind some of the tie rods, remove the grease fittings, or put a TRZ manual rack in it.
 

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Even a none stroker pan on a bbc the tie rods hit the pan!!!!
 

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My pan is dented from the tie rods as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Glad somebody wrote this up, thanks! Had you not cut the crossmember, would the pan clear the crossmember with the taller moroso mounts? I heard that it does, but barely. How much can you steer the car before the tie rods hit the pan? and does it hit the pan in both steering directions?

also wondering why it would be a bitch to install the engine if you didn't remove the crossmember?

When i asked about running this pan in a Chevelle, people said to use heim joints on the inner tie rods to gain more clearance, use spacers to limit the amount of steering, grind some of the tie rods, remove the grease fittings, or put a TRZ manual rack in it.
It may have fit with the stock front cross member but it would have been so tight that it would not be worth trying . with the tall engine mounts it was hard getting the engine back into position I had to take the driver side engine mount off then lower the engine into place then put the engine mount on .
If you turn the steering wheel to the right the tierod will not make contact even with the grease fitting in the tierod . now when left the tierod end makes contat with the pan without the grease fitting you can turn it a good ways before it hits but it will not turn all the way .
 

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This pan will clear a stock cross member, as I have not notched mine at all. But I do have the same problem with the drag link hitting when turning left...

Haven't I seen a drank link that has been dropped to clear oil pans???
 

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Discussion Starter #12
This pan will clear a stock cross member, as I have not notched mine at all. But I do have the same problem with the drag link hitting when turning left...

Haven't I seen a drank link that has been dropped to clear oil pans???
what did you do ? you just let it hit the oil pan or did you do somethng to prevent it from making contact with the pan . and if so what and do you have pics of what you did . thanks for any help . The reason I started this thred is anyone can google this and will be able to find it .
 

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i put stops on the lower control arms where the spindles hit. didnt notice any difference in turning since the spool in the rear fights you anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
i put stops on the lower control arms where the spindles hit. didnt notice any difference in turning since the spool in the rear fights you anyway.
Is there anyway you can take pics so I can see how you did it .
 

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Is there anyway you can take pics so I can see how you did it .
Pretty simple just turn your wheels all the way to the one side and its pretty self explanitory. Make some sort of stop for the spindle's to rest against the lower control arm. You could thread a bolt in there and make it adjustable if wanted, get creative.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I got you but im working right now and im in my car just trying to get a idea of how others have done it
 

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Any idea how much weight you pulled out when you cut out the stock crossmember?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I had a chance to play with the car a little more and I think I may have figured it out . The center link needed to be lower but not much so I have been thinking of what I could do and came up with moving the idle arm My thinking was that if the idle arm was a little lower in the car then it would clear . So I started to unbolt the idle arm and took the lower bolt out and as i pulled on the center section to get under the car the center link dropped and the bottom of the idle arm slid forward towards the front of the car I then noticed that the drag link was free and clear of the pan I then got the top bolt of the idle arm tight so it would not move and worked the steering back and forth from lock to lock no binding no touching of the pan at any location . I then drilled a new hole in the frame and put the lower bolt back in the lower hole of the idle arm and in the new hole and bingo fixed . the steering works fine and will go lock to lock and will not touch anything there is even room for the grease fittings . any thoughts




 
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