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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
has any of the builders here perfer to build a (lets say) max effort deal using a cast block over a alum. block.
from what ive been told from a few builders that they can make more power with a cast block over a alum block because the cast block is more stable over the alum. block.

im sure it depends on what alum. block is used also to compare to.

thanks Bob
 

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Ronald Reagans Ultra Ego.
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Iron is alot stronger, but heavier.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
the main reason im consider the alum. block is the weight difference.
i need to pull weight out of the car to make weight and no better place than up front.

difference on blocks.
the alum. block is 100 lbs lighter than the cast
the alum block is 9.200 deck vs the 9.000 on cast
the alum block has a 2.500 main vs the 2.250 on the cast.

both R5 blocks are race blocks with 6 bolt billet mains fully skirted. open decks with 60mm cam tunnels.
 

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HP difference ?

Are you looking for a HP 'Loss' number Bob? For what your doing probably going to be 30 anyways. I always tell customers, the dyno likes the cast block's, but the car like's the aluminum. Been threads on here in the not too distant past too, about the same thing Bob. Try to search up...

Off topic a little, I just talked to my close friend yesterday & he was telling me he has four (4) 68mm cam cores at Bullet for those blocks. Sound pretty bad ass, oil comes in from #4 journal, I think, then oil's the other journals internally (through the hollow core).
 

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1 big drawback is bore size...depending on what your going to do with the sleeves/bores.
Send the iron block out to get lightened maybe??
How much weight are you looking to get rid of....or get down to??
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i havent scaled the car yet, but from similar style builds ive done im figuring to be in the 2,850 to 2,950 range at race weight.
min. A/M is 2850 with bars
much rather add weight were i want it.

Ritter has done lighten to the cast blocks and has knocked 35 to 40 lbs. off them from what he told me.

bore will be in the 4.220 range. it can be bored to 4.250 but is pushing it to limit.
 

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When Darin was at Glidden's 15 or so years ago, he said the aluminum blocks made less power, but they went down the track faster in the Probe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: HP difference ?

Been threads on here in the not too distant past too, about the same thing Bob. Try to search up...
thanks !
found plenty to read on this.

Bob
 

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Re: HP difference ?

thanks !
found plenty to read on this.

Bob
Cool, right on Bob ;). I've actually got an alum. block in my car & am considering getting rid of it, just so I can get some weight a little farther forward. Corvette's were never nose heavy to begin with. As long as I can take some weight out in other places to keep the overall weight down (not simple at this point) I'd like to try.
 

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Weight on the nose is not always a bad thing.... it is needed. That's where the work is, in the lever of your suspension...... remove too much weight from the nose and now, the lever has nothing to work against......... food for thought.
 

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Weight on the nose is not always a bad thing.... it is needed. That's where the work is, in the lever of your suspension...... remove too much weight from the nose and now, the lever has nothing to work against......... food for thought.
Excellent point...
 

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Getting a tiny bit off topic, sort of...

Weight on the nose is not always a bad thing.... it is needed. That's where the work is, in the lever of your suspension...... remove too much weight from the nose and now, the lever has nothing to work against......... food for thought.
Yip...it is an excellent point. My car hooks hard, but has 'A Lot' of trouble driving off the starting line. Hence, Chris's lever statement. Gary Hansen (Hansen race cars) helped me a little in Vegas at the SCSN's & thought 53% on the nose would be close to ideal for me. I'm like 49.8% right now. Originally these car's in those years came from the factory 47% Frt./53% Rear! So needless to say I'm fighting it a little right now...
 

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www.ULTRA-CARBON.com
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Re: HP difference ?

Cool, right on Bob ;). I've actually got an alum. block in my car & am considering getting rid of it, just so I can get some weight a little farther forward. Corvette's were never nose heavy to begin with. As long as I can take some weight out in other places to keep the overall weight down (not simple at this point) I'd like to try.

Sounds like we need to trade, Ryan. I have an iron block for you!! :cool:
 

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Weight on the nose is not always a bad thing.... it is needed. That's where the work is, in the lever of your suspension...... remove too much weight from the nose and now, the lever has nothing to work against......... food for thought.
Seen this very thing last year,after and aluminum block swap,, wound up having to put weights on the front end to make it work right again,,, like you said food for thought,,,,
 

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i dont drag race, i mud race its just like drag racing except its in the mud. im here to tell you that i just went thru this and as of now im in the middle of rebuilding my truck cause i moved the motor to far back in the truck and i couldnt keep the ft tires on the ground enough to steer it during the pass. weight on the noise is a good thing!!!
 

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i dont drag race, i mud race its just like drag racing except its in the mud. im here to tell you that i just went thru this and as of now im in the middle of rebuilding my truck cause i moved the motor to far back in the truck and i couldnt keep the ft tires on the ground enough to steer it during the pass. weight on the noise is a good thing!!!
Nope...if a person has enough jam (power) it definatly can hurt a guy...
 

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You've got a deal...!

Sounds like we need to trade, Ryan. I have an iron block for you!! :cool:
If you get or a have a block set-up same as mine, deck height, key-way lifter bushings with Little Chief lifter layout, 55mm roller cam bearings, .440" raised cam tunnel, Olds Rocket block style spread pan rails, wet sump, 350 type main line...You've got a deal Greg!! LOL. :)
 

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Re: You've got a deal...!

If you get or a have a block set-up same as mine, deck height, key-way lifter bushings with Little Chief lifter layout, 55mm roller cam bearings, .440" raised cam tunnel, Olds Rocket block style spread pan rails, wet sump, 350 type main line...You've got a deal Greg!! LOL. :)


LOL!! Funny guy. You've seen my car run at Pacific, Ryan. Mine is just a stock type #509 block. I was just teasin'. How about I just take that motor off your hands so you can build yourself a new iron block version? Do you take IOU's? I'd make you a serious offer if I could seriously afford it. Not likely, though. Tryin to live the wine and caviar racer life on a beer and pizza racer budget.
 

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Re: You've got a deal...!

Tryin to live the wine and caviar racer life on a beer and pizza racer budget.
I hear ya' Greg. Was a few years planning (saving) to be able afford what I have myself. Good part's are hard on the wallet! Now in hindsight I could have & maybe should have saved a few bucks going cast :neutral:.
 
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