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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm wanting to provide direct oiling to rear thrust surface. The upper shell has a full center groove. I slotted one side of one shell half at the top into center groove. It's about .060 but it's smaller than the center of bearing. I just don't want to starve that bearing for oil. Bearing clearance is .0025 i use 50 weight with restrictors.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Motor has had past thrust issue. It's a Neal BT converter that had an .080 shim but it was still flexing enough where snout end was just touching crank. Tranny cooler is looped but noticed hose was kinked a little fixed this too. I shimmed converter and bellhousing some more should work. It's a procharged application just don't want anymore thrust issues. I don't think the extra oil will stop load on thrust but it probably won't hurt it either. I just don't want to starve that bearing for oil but it's a pretty small opening.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Thrust side is .007 the bearing is .0025.... That is a good question because engine has 14mm cog with a crank support. I have wondered if the belt can hold the crank into the thrust. Not sure if more thrust side clearance would help...Engine is SBF
 

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Beating it up on the transbrake. Pretty common problem. What type of engine ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Beating it up on the transbrake. Pretty common problem. What type of engine ?
It's SBF F3 procharged the brake is used up to 3800. Many other people don't have issues. It would be trick to put a sealed tapered bearing on the mandrel against a plate to hold the crank.
 

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drill a hole thru the saddle webbing into the galley that goes to the thrust

any add a ball bearing to the front main journal

some also add a thrust wear ring to the flywheel that rubs on the back face of engine block,
( this is commonly done on "fuel" type engines that have lots of clutch / flywheel flex when the fingers have lots of pressure or weight on them )....
 

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Has the block been align honed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Has the block been align honed.
It has 2 times... I've not had problems with timing chain length. Are you thinking trans is off center? what is an accurate way to check this with JW bellhousing?
 

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I am thinking there is not enough chamfer on the edge of the thrust bearing cap, so its pushing in the radius of the bearing causing the edges of the thrust to push out toward the crank when you tq the cap. Not sure how and when your checking thrust during assembly but have seen this before.

Are you fitting your thrust or just putting it in and running it. Sanding the sides of your thrust bear?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The upper shell (block) had .007..........When i installed the cap crank hardley had movement. I had to sand the lower shell alot on both side to match the .007....... To back this up the motor is going back together now all this happining just having a line hone done. First line hone was needed being new block.
 

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I would check your last bearing or the one in the motor now for a line in the radius going to the sides of the bearing to make sure the cap is not pushing on it. That will pinch the bearing on the ends and cause you to lose thrust clearance when you put the cap on it.
 

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The upper shell (block) had .007..........When i installed the cap crank hardley had movement. I had to sand the lower shell alot on both side to match the .007....... To back this up the motor is going back together now all this happining just having a line hone done. First line hone was needed being new block.

DID you set the THRUST with a hammer before fully tightening the rear cap????

YOU need to do this to align both halves of the bearing

if you had .007. then put the cap on and had less you should have figured out WHY........

Sometimes you have to open up the holes for the blots or studs so you can set the thrust and they line up

Did you set the thrust??????
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The thrust was set several times. It was less clearance due to fitment in cap. I don't know if lack of chamfer caused this. It's not uncommon to sand one half or both. Noticed more than normal was needed. I checked bore with dial gauge it's fine. It is what it is and clearanced front/rear to match other bearing shell in block
 

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I've also seen the thrust put behind the front cap, for a roller thrust....

Personally I like the idea of using the rear of the block between the crank flange on the outside...
 
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