[Ren]

What exactly has to be done to properly fit a mid plate with a clutch? I tried doing a couple searches here on the bullet and didn't really come up with much.

 

[Ren]

for reference it is a t56 behind an ls1, I don't have the transmission apart so i can not take measurements, my best guess would be just use an extended pilot bushing in the crank. But I am not sure if that leaves the splines fully engaged on my twin disk.

 

[Battlestar]

If the plate is only 1/8" thick, then I would likely not worry too much about pilot engagement. Or remove the stock plate and use only a midplate, then you lose nothing. Does the new cars even have a factory shield between motor and flywheel?

On my car, I have two plates for the fact I needed more room inside the bellhousing. I then used the stock one to weld ears on to make a midplate. The second ring is just that, an open ring so it fits around the flywheel and just spaces the bell outward. There is not enough room behind the flywheel for a full two plates.

 

[Ren]

The stock ones don't have a shield but my sfi bellhousing does use one. I was going to use an alum midplate, but a steel 1/8th and a thick front alum should get the job done. Do you use anything to control forward/backward motion of the engine or have the plates themselves been sufficient?

 

[RJAZE]

When I ran a Jerico my midplate was made from the same steel used for armor. 0.250" thick. Was a real bastard to work with, but I had no worries about the clutch destroying the block in the event of an explosion.
I made a limiter for the right side. Right and left hand heims, mechanical tubing, etc...

Still use the same midplate with my 'Glide.

 

[Battlestar]

I run 1/4" alum front plates on mine. I have two limiters, running from brackets on the bellhousing bolts running back at angles to the stock frame rails. Whatever works for your car.

 

[Johnny O]

Do you have a picture of how you have it supported with the limmiter? Thanks