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Discussion Starter #1
When do you know when the master is bad. Here is my problem, in the burnout box the car will creep out when the line lock is on. Also at the top end it just seems like the car will not stop at all and im doing all I can do to stop the car. It has 4 wheel disk brakes and all the rotors get so hot that they are turning color. I have a Wilwood master right now and was thinking of replacing it and trying that. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Rob
 

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When the pedal goes to the floor, the seal went bad.

If the rotors are glowing, you are still getting pressure.

As for moving in the water, are you pumping up the pressure enough before pushing the button??

Good luck.

.
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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When the pedal goes to the floor, the seal went bad.

If the rotors are glowing, you are still getting pressure.

As for moving in the water, are you pumping up the pressure enough before pushing the button??

Good luck.

.
I pump the brakes till me foot hurts to try to build pressure but it seems like the pressure bleeds out and than I have to let go of the button.
 

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front tires are wet from rolling thru the box??
 

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Is the pedal different?? if the pedal bleeds out, the master is leaking past the seal.
When you lose a master, you will usually have no doubt.
It will not hold, small leak, or go straight to the floor, blown seal.

.
 

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What bore dia are you running now ?
 

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Is this a new problem.....was is good before? If it has never been right, sounds like a pedal ratio/ MC bore issue......If it was good before, sounds like the master cylinder is leaking past the seal.....We are a Wilwood dealer if you need anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
its a 1 1/16 bore. I just bought the car last year, so I dont know if it was ever good. I just know that is not right that u have to get on the brakes that hard to stop. If I dont pull the chute is a real treat to stop.
 

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its a 1 1/16 bore. I just bought the car last year, so I dont know if it was ever good. I just know that is not right that u have to get on the brakes that hard to stop. If I dont pull the chute is a real treat to stop.
if you have 4 wheel disc, that is too big....and check the pedal ratio...should be prob around 6:1....I highly doubt that the system has ever been good. The big bore is not allowing you to build enough pressure on the calipers, thats why they are getting hot and not stopping the car. Go down to a 1" bore
 

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if you have 4 wheel disc, that is too big....and check the pedal ratio...should be prob around 6:1....I highly doubt that the system has ever been good. The big bore is not allowing you to build enough pressure on the calipers, thats why they are getting hot and not stopping the car. Go down to a 1" bore

Agreed.
Also, another item that will affect braking is the pad material. Do you know what brake pads are on the car?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I just got off the phone with Aerospace cause that's what the brakes are and I think the master is from them too looks just like the Wilwood one but its a 1 1/8 bore. He told me to do a pressure test on all 4 corners to have at least 1000 psi and there should be more in the front. Second thing is to get the ratio of the pedal as OB1 mentioned. The pads I ordered from Aerospace last year cause I thought that could be the problem, also got new front rotors but didn't change anything. Thanks for all the great info I really appreciate it. I will go back and do some test and see what is wrong.

Thanks again
 

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Let us know what you find out.

What is the current pedal ratio ?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Let us know what you find out.

What is the current pedal ratio ?
I just did a pedal ratio and it between 4.3 and 4.7 and Aerospace told me to be at 7 so I have to move it up. But im going to take a PSI test on all 4 corners tomorrow night and see what it is at 4.5 lets just say and than again when I move it to 7. Should be interesting. More info to come.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok the pressure at 4.5 pedal ratio was 800 psi than I put the pedal ratio at 7 and the pedal goes to the floor and cant get a hard pedal. Put it back to 4.5 and i have a hard pedal. Is the master junk?
 

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Do you see any signs of "wetness" where the mc bolts to the firewall ? Or looking from inside the car ?

Is the push rod, going into the mc, going in straight after you made the ratio change ?

I'm curious to know how you changed the leverage ratio. Going from 4.5 to 7 is a pretty big jump in push rod position on the brake pedal.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Do you see any signs of "wetness" where the mc bolts to the firewall ? Or looking from inside the car ?

Is the push rod, going into the mc, going in straight after you made the ratio change ?

I'm curious to know how you changed the leverage ratio. Going from 4.5 to 7 is a pretty big jump in push rod position on the brake pedal.
No, I didnt see any wetness anywhere.

I moved the rod up one inch on the pedal. It is alittle on the high side. I was trying to get the rod to go straight in but laying on my head I was alittle off.
 

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No, I didnt see any wetness anywhere.

I moved the rod up one inch on the pedal. It is alittle on the high side. I was trying to get the rod to go straight in but laying on my head I was alittle off.

Sounds like the mc is leaking internally then if the brake pedal is going to the floor now at the higher ratio.
 

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if your mc is mounted in the floor and the calipers are higher you need a residual valve front and back. the blue one if you have discs at all four. this may not help and i speed read the other posts. if this has been discussed sorry for wasting your time.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
if your mc is mounted in the floor and the calipers are higher you need a residual valve front and back. the blue one if you have discs at all four. this may not help and i speed read the other posts. if this has been discussed sorry for wasting your time.
The master is in the stock location on a 1991 Camaro not on the floor. Thanks
 
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