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Hi,

Have a Wolfe belt drive Mag 44 set up. Have it mounted on the engine, belt lined up and all seems good.

Question come in on the phase part? Been trying to get a hold of David Wolfe for over a week without much luck, can get his shop but they say I need to talk to him.

System is a XFI, MSD Grid to the Points box. Where or how do you phase this in? Do you phase it on #1 cylinder and at what timing? This was bought used so no instructions came with unit. I know the makes on the mag for the direction it's turning needs to line up but just trying to find out the rest!

Thanks
 

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Are you using the internal trigger or a crank trigger?

1.) Find TDC #1 compression stroke
2.) Roll engine back to 50* BTDC
3.) Line the crank trigger up with a magnet. (this would only apply if you're using an external crank trigger which I assume you are). I would be a little scared to run the internal trigger when you're running the wolfe setup since it uses a belt to drive the magneto.
4.) Roll the engine forward to BTDC of your maximum timing
5.) Phase the rotor of the distributor so the copper contact is directly over #1. You can mark where #1 is with a sharpie and remove the cap. MSD also sells a cap with holes drilled in so you can see it.
6.) Set you crank reference angle in your ECU to 50*
7.) Start you engine to check your timing. Lock your timing in and see if it matches what you're commanding in the ECU. If it's off by only 5 degrees then adjust your crank reference value in the ECU until it matches. If it's off by more than 5 degrees then adjust your crank trigger until it's within 5 degrees.

The wolfe drive isn't much different than a standard mechanical magneto drive. Your points wire/crank trigger is still commanding when the spark is released
 

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Phasing is pretty straight forward but I had a hell of a time getting mine to start reliably and/or easy with the crank trigger signal thru the EFI. The best money I ever spent was on a crossover box that allows you to start the engine on the internal mag trigger then switch over to the EFI/crank trigger signal. I had all kinds of advice that cranking rpm need to be 24v/36v/48v. All of which was wrong. 16v lithium battery, MSD high speed starter and a 153T flexplate. It starts now in less than a 1/2 a revolution EVERY TIME with the crossover box. I have a switch and a bright red LED that is in my eyes so I don't forget to switch it over to EFI control. Forgetting to switch it over effectively locks the timing and could cause major engine damage. The crossover also acts as a kill switch so you don't need a shorting contactor to kill the engine. Here is the link, http://www.fuelinjectionent.com/webstore/product_info.php?products_id=209
 

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Got beltdriven Mag back from Wolfe, line up marks, no spark.
Instructions say line up marks on generator[no cap]at 20 degress BTDC, trigger set at 20 degrees, no spark.

Set generator at TDC or even 5 degrees ATDC, trigger set at 20 degrees BTDC, good spark and starts great, timing light steady at 20 degrees.
Tryed reversing trigger pickup wires, no spark, unless hooked up normal way

What gives?
 

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What gives is there are several things working against you that must be compensated for to get it to start properly. The biggest issue is there is a lot of hysteresis in the signal compared to when the power pulse is generated to produce the spark. This is not like a CD or inductive style ignition that is powered continuously and just waiting on the trigger to fire the spark. The power for the spark is only generated as the armature passes the magnetic poles if the stator so there are only brief power pulses coming from the mag at low rpm and especially at cranking speed. Everything takes time and when the signal to fire has to go thru multiple devices the imparted hysteresis can get the sync off between the signal and the spark pulse. This is why I posted about the FIE crossover box above. In my case it takes out the Grid Controller and the BS3 by using the internal trigger in the mag which also happens to be the cleanest signal of the two. The FIE box also allows the mag to be unaffected by timing changes in the bottom of the spark map that could mess up a otherwise good starting setup. You also can get rid of another problematic piece of the puzzle which is the kill solenoid. I have also heard of people using the Grid Controller to kill the mag just like using the FIE box as killing either and/or both of them removes the signal to fire thus killing the spark. Once I got the sync right on my setup, I don't think it even needs the 16V battery(which I already had) or the high speed MSD starter or 153T flexplate. However when it's adjusted correctly I have never seen any engine, old, new, carb, EFI, COP etc start as fast as this setup. You literally cannot get your finger off the start button fast enough to not drag the starter when it fires up. It is less than a half revolution and honestly probably less than 1/4 of a revolution most of the time but if the sync is off between the generator poles and the trigger the deal is off which can vary between being sluggish to a no spark condition like you are experiencing. On a side note try to keep signal and power wires separated and I have the mag points box and coil up near the mag while keeping the MSD Grid Controller, Grid modules and EFI in the cockpit. It is also a good idea to run some dedicated ground cables from each head to a good clean chassis ground and be sure the points box/coil are also well grounded. Mags have been known for wreaking havoc on engine parts, especially main bearings/crank when allowed to find their own path to ground. Sorry for the long post and I hope this helps.
 

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Toss that mag in the trash :p coil packs ttfmf lol
 

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No grid, no extra timing controls, no efi.
Starts easily on 12 volts.
Has no internal pickup to switch to.
Gonna need 2 crank trigger pickups? 1 set at cranking timing degrees, 1 set at running degrees?
 

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What the hell are we working on, a tractor??? It better have some way to manipulate timing, else it is going to be really slow or hurt a shit load of parts.........
 
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