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I've got to drill over a 1000 holes thru 1/2" 304 stainless. This will be done in a machining center with flood coolant (unfortunately not coolant thru spindle). I've always just purchased whatever 1/2" carbide drill was cheapest. I can afford to spend a little money on tooling for this one. I'll be doing more of it in the future. Recommendations on a drill?? Replaceable tip drill?? What would you use?
 

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Call Ray Thompson at 770- 979-1997. He sells the finest drill bits available. He has bits, not carbide, that cut stainless. Tell him his old race car driver told you to call.
 

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Also he has a wealth of knowledge about cutting metal. Really knows what he is talking about.
 

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What he said ^ Seriously, call a high end drill manufacturer and follow their recommendation. I was turn stainless in our Haas and going through inserts like crazy, called Kennametal tech and got the inserts they recommended and using the suggested speed and feed ran faster and lasted longer than trying to wing it. The OSG drills are the pooky in stainless but I don't know how large they go.
 

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Also he has a wealth of knowledge about cutting metal. Really knows what he is talking about.
Curious, who does he rep or work for?
Always looking for new resources as new projects come up.
 

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How deep a hole?
I have always used Guhring Carb drills with a Firex coating.
Only a .100 dia spot if you spot dril at all.
 

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For 1/2 holes I might try Guhring but, AMECo. makes spade bits, that's where I would be. Thru tool coolant helps a lot but, I have used the spades without, at 1 inch deep.
 

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Hate drilling stainless. I use a masonry bit ( and soapy water for coolant ) that I’ve hand sharpened, of course in your application that not ideal but they do work well.

1000 holes? Would it not be better to invest in a punch?
 

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For 1/2 holes I might try Guhring but, AMECo. makes spade bits, that's where I would be. Thru tool coolant helps a lot but, I have used the spades without, at 1 inch deep.
I second this. You're far better off with spindle through coolant, but you can make it work without. Just maybe program a full retract in the cycle if you're going deep. I also second buying Allied. Very affordable bodies, inserts aren't too bad either.
 

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we do mostly stainless at the shop and use quite ordinary tooling, quite ofter hss tooling. flod coolant and keep rpm down will help a lot, dont skimp on sharpenning whenever your drill get dull. you can't get away with too much rpm or dry machining like you do with steel. whenever the sound change just stop and sharpen to avoid hardening.
 

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You don't need anything fancy. OSG SUS drills is all you need. It's just 304, keep your SFM within their range and feed whatever IPR for the diameter of drill.
 

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Yep, like pep fab said, Low rpm, and good feed rate. Don't be afraid to push it. HSS/Cobalt regular precision twist drill is all we ever used. 304/316 drilling fairly deep on screw machines. I would start out around 250 rpm, .006/.--.007 inches per rev, tweak up or down from there. Thats what rpm & feed over ride is for!
 
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