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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking to build an ls motor for the first time.My question to the ones that know which ls take out is the best to start with.4.8,5.3 or 6.0.I can get my hands on a 5.3 take out but i need to know if that the one to build.Thanks for any help
 

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either do a 5.7 out of a vette or f-body, or a 6.0 motor..the trucks with 6.0s make great footprints to start on..bore it 30 throw a stroker crank in it and it becomes a 408..you can also take a stock 5.7 throw a good cam and heads on it and easily make 450+rwhp..the 5.3's just require to much block work to be able to make much power
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks,that the direction i was looking for.What year models to look for the 6.0 motors in.They only came in trucks is that correct.Thanks for any help.
 

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Thanks,that the direction i was looking for.What year models to look for the 6.0 motors in.They only came in trucks is that correct.Thanks for any help.

you can get a ls2 aluminum block out of a gto or vette but it will cost you more..look for the truck motor with the aluminum heads..they are worth around $300 alone. i bought a complete 6.0 motor last year from oil pan to tb for $750...i parted out everything except the shortblock and pretty much paid for itself..i am considering selling the ls1 out of my camaro..its a stock head motor that made just under 400 hp on a chassis dyno. let me know if you are interested..
 

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What are you wanting to do with it ??? What will it be in?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have a chevy luv with a bbc now,but i'm looking to do a stock suspension fox mustang or 96 camaro.It will be carbed and nos.If i find a 6.0 truck motor what comes next.I'm looking to do the stock short block with the exception of cam and pistons.and production heads with some port work.What heads are the best to start with.Thanks for information in the right direction.
 

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I have a chevy luv with a bbc now,but i'm looking to do a stock suspension fox mustang or 96 camaro.It will be carbed and nos.If i find a 6.0 truck motor what comes next.I'm looking to do the stock short block with the exception of cam and pistons.and production heads with some port work.What heads are the best to start with.Thanks for information in the right direction.

the stock rods are really the weakest link..you can do a good heads/cam swap, and spray 150-200 and only thing you might want to consider is a good set of rod bolts. you'd be looking at over 600 wheel then.just buy a 408 shortblock from TSP for around $3400 and call it a day!!
 

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I've got an LS1 block fitted with Darton sleeves (4.125 bore).........no miles.

Block+sleeves+machining and sleeve install= Over $3500.

I'm selling for a small fraction of that.
 

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Go to your local junkyard and buy a complete 6.0. If your going to replace the pistons look for a LQ4, there a dishtop motor and usally a touch cheaper. It should have alum. 317 casting heads, these can be ported to make some impressive numbers. Just use the stock crank and do a piston and rod upgrade + some arp hardware and you have a helluva shortblock, and the usual valvetrain upgrades= great power. Really gets fun with a 225 shot!
Here's a little proof. Stock LQ9, 212/224 cam, carb setup, no portwork or head upgrades. Truck was 3420# on a 275 drag radial. [email protected] It has run .30 a few times also...
Put this in a set up and light fox body mustang and low 6's- should be easy..
 

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I've got an LS1 block fitted with Darton sleeves (4.125 bore).........no miles.

Block+sleeves+machining and sleeve install= Over $3500.

I'm selling for a small fraction of that.
how much, Billyman...? this might sound naive, but is it aluminum?
 

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You can take a stock ls2 block, use a 4 inch crank and get a 402, It's 100 lbs lighter then the 6 litre truck block, and will take a 900 to 1000 hp build if you do it right (billet mains that are pinned, little blcok exoxy in the bottom of the water jackets)

I've got over 100 passes on my motor now, no issues so far.

Other options are the ls3 block with a 4 inch crank to get to a 416, also a good choice for CI vs weight.

Lsx block can go to a 454, and that with the right top end /power adder on it will make all the steam you want.
 

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Other options are the ls3 block with a 4 inch crank to get to a 416, also a good choice for CI vs weight.
The hottest N/A build for the LS3's right now is a 4.065 bore and 4.100 stroke with 6.200 rod (427). The down falls of this build is the ring stack and high wrist pin placement in the piston. The .043/.043/3mm ring stack isn't suitable for boost or even a modest shot of N2O but for N/A power, it's a beast and torque monster. Just got one all together last week and installed and started in an '05 GTO today.

For boost and N2O, the 416 is a solid choice.
 

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right now the configuration is a factory ls2 block with 4.00 stroke, 6.125 rod, 4.000 bore
heads are cnc 235cc TFS, solid roller, super victor, not sure on carb yet. the heads are 70cc, so compression is going to be 11:1
hoping to get 650hp n/a and then hit it with a 200shot. car will weigh 2850 with me in it for one class and 3200lb for the other
 

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You can take a stock ls2 block, use a 4 inch crank and get a 402, It's 100 lbs lighter then the 6 litre truck block, and will take a 900 to 1000 hp build if you do it right (billet mains that are pinned, little blcok exoxy in the bottom of the water jackets)

I've got over 100 passes on my motor now, no issues so far.

Other options are the ls3 block with a 4 inch crank to get to a 416, also a good choice for CI vs weight.

Lsx block can go to a 454, and that with the right top end /power adder on it will make all the steam you want.
You dont need billet mains or have them pinned for 1000hp. My old 346 didnt have either and ran like that for 2 years and the mains were fine after 450 passes and I beat the living shit out of the thing.

The LS2 block i have now is still on the stock main caps, crank too..

As far as the stock rods if you keep the rpm reasonable and have good rod bolts they hold up pretty decent, my original 346 that was in here ran 9.70-9.80s @ 3400lbs for a year on the stock connecting rods shifting at 6700rpm. But there are a lot of cheap rods out there these days so may as well go with an aftermarket rod unless you are extremely bucks down.

These engines can take a hell of a lot abuse in stock form as long as its tuned properly, you can blow up the best stuff out there on a bad tune.
 

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Hey Kevin,

Did you put arp main studs or head studs.. what prep did you do to the block? do you have a motor plate or motor mounts?
I have ARP main studs and head studs (regular diameter). Block was just squared up, line honed and honed with plates. deburred and thats about it. Stock cranks in the last 3 engines. The last LS6 block and this LS2 were brand new GM blocks.

I'm on stock motor mounts with poly inserts.

Here is some pics when I took the old 346 apart late last year, it could have been honed and put back in but I figure a new short block every two years isnt much to ask as much as I race the car, usually two-three times a month year round and I have been known to make over 10 passes a day - i get my moneys worth when I'm at the track ;)

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=827072&highlight=main+cap+walk
 

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You dont need billet mains or have them pinned for 1000hp. My old 346 didnt have either and ran like that for 2 years and the mains were fine after 450 passes and I beat the living shit out of the thing.

The LS2 block i have now is still on the stock main caps, crank too..

As far as the stock rods if you keep the rpm reasonable and have good rod bolts they hold up pretty decent, my original 346 that was in here ran 9.70-9.80s @ 3400lbs for a year on the stock connecting rods shifting at 6700rpm. But there are a lot of cheap rods out there these days so may as well go with an aftermarket rod unless you are extremely bucks down.

These engines can take a hell of a lot abuse in stock form as long as its tuned properly, you can blow up the best stuff out there on a bad tune.
I don't have billet mains or the mains pinned in mine either, but I'm not making that kind of power either. For a build that has a goal of 1000rw, I would do it while it's apart. For the cost vs the added stability, I would spend the couple bucks. I did put a motor plate in the car, mainly for header clearance and ease of taking it apart, and this way I can change the k member with the motor in the car easily when I get around to doing that, and the plate I got was cheap, after selling the motor mount clamshells with the poly mounts the plate only cost me about 70 bucks.
 
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