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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone good with these? I got an issue with my crank/cam I can't seem figure out, made a thread in the electrical section and not having any luck, thought you Ls guys might be able to offer more insight
 

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Danny Holley guru is real good with them and 2stroke on here. Danny will chime in for you.
 

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Is your tune compatible with the firmware version?
If the tune was saved on an older firmware it could cause issues.
X2 that is what I'm thinking.
 

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If you could post up everything you've checked, screen shots of your system logs etc I'm sure someone might be able to help. Most times I've found issues like these are hardware related, bad wiring job, sensor failures, reluctor wheel problems etc. Other times I've been able to log in and immediately see odd sensor values that the owner overlooked.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I have a internal billet 24x reactor welded to the crank and air gap was .082 I since modified it to .32,
At first my original sensor was terrible, got a Borg Warner and the issue went to only one miss per pass at the track, then holley told me to put an Ac delco sensor in it and I tried 2, neither would start the car, they sound like they were 180 out

Tune started as v2 when I uploaded the firmware and opened my old tune it said it was adjusting it to be compatible with v3

Only thing changed since it was running fine was heads/intake and the firmware

The system log has issues with the crank and occcasionally the cam, here's one example (I have probably 30)


I've tried 2 other Borg crank sensors
I've tried it without the cam sensor
Tried grounding the coil pack bracket
Tried higher resistance wires
Tried new wires
Changed plugs
Checked wiring
Unplugged boost noids and moved their 12v
New battery for the car
Checked for loose power/ground in harness
Checked air gap

Seems turning the boost up makes it worse(misfire more)
 

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I had an odd issue with mine too. Ended up being the cam sensor wire i had zip tied to the starter power wire. Was getting lots of interference. Moved them away from each other and it was good to go. It wouldnt rev past about 5k. Also had a similar issue when my plug gap was too wide. Lowered it to 16 and it revved fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I tried it with the cam sensor turned off in the tune, but did not unplug it, it's zipped tied along the pan then goes up the drivers rear of the block near the alternator wire into the cabin through the same hole as the alternator wire, but it has always been this way

The crank I have tied to the starter wire, have tried it tied away from it also

Plug gap is .018

Thing to mention is at wastegate 4~pounds it only acts up 1 out of 10 times
If I add 5 psi co2 to the gate it acts up 9/10 times
 

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Damn I'm having good luck with mine still on v2 though.

Post up some screen shots of the holley
 

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Did you check the runout on the reluctor wheel before you put the motor together. Almost sounds exactly like mine, except I was able to find a crank sensor that would start it. However, once under big power, any flex at all in the crankshaft would shut it down. My crankshaft reluctor wheel was .020 to .025. Billet 24x deal installed by LME. LME assured me and my engine builder that amount of runout was completely fine. Ass holes.
 

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I have a internal billet 24x reactor welded to the crank and air gap was .082 I since modified it to .32,
At first my original sensor was terrible, got a Borg Warner and the issue went to only one miss per pass at the track, then holley told me to put an Ac delco sensor in it and I tried 2, neither would start the car, they sound like they were 180 out

Tune started as v2 when I uploaded the firmware and opened my old tune it said it was adjusting it to be compatible with v3

Only thing changed since it was running fine was heads/intake and the firmware

The system log has issues with the crank and occcasionally the cam, here's one example (I have probably 30)


I've tried 2 other Borg crank sensors
I've tried it without the cam sensor
Tried grounding the coil pack bracket
Tried higher resistance wires
Tried new wires
Changed plugs
Checked wiring
Unplugged boost noids and moved their 12v
New battery for the car
Checked for loose power/ground in harness
Checked air gap

Seems turning the boost up makes it worse(misfire more)
If that is an actual raw signal from either crank or cam, then in no way is that correct or usable.

The hall sensors on these engines should produce a simple digital off/on signal, square wave. Not a sawtooth of any kind.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
No that's is the crnak position signal, I can post an actual crank log also

I did not chexk runout, as I've never had an issue but my car doesn't turn off it simply mis counts one rotation, I've spun it 8500 without an issue, sometimes it acts up at 5500
 

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Is there a way to revert to the previous firmware and v2 file?

Or borrow someone else box still in v2 and load Ur original v2 tune?

Seems like glitch for how everything happened IMO. Half the reason I don't load v3
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I can upload v2 firmware again and go back to an old file without a ton of work

Here's a log of the actual crank sensor shown, I don't see an issue and I'm not sure how to read it, unfortunately the 2 guys at holley I was talking to about this stopped responding weeks ago so I'm stuck figuring it out myself
 
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