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The car currently has 10.5w M/T's and wheelie bars.300 shot off the transbrake.I'm thinking on trying a couple of different tire classes this year(275 and E/T Street) that don't allow bars.So is it better to delay the nitrous hit (like a digiset) or to pull timing to prevent big wheelstands?One of the classes doesn't allow traction control so I guess a 7531 is out.Car currently has a MSD digital 6 in it.
 

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The nitrous guy
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LACK of power, is what causes big wheelstands. You dead stick the tire and the pinion climbs the ring gear, is what pushes the front end up. On bias tires, like slicks or ET Streets, you need to get after it hard enough to snap the car up on the tire and make wheelspeed.......this keeps the front down. Radials are a little diff, because you can't slip them and you can't hammer it like a bias tire. Chassis setup is more important than anything with a radial. Plant the tire, but control the front end rise with suspension and weight percentage.

Monte
 

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Is a progressive considered traction control? Either that or break it up into multiple stages if they allow it.

No traction control doesn't necessarily mean a 7531 is out. Ask and find out.
 

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More power earlier, and keep tightening the front shocks.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks,good info guys.Not sure if PSCA considers a 7531 traction control or not-I'll check.
 

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Is a progressive considered traction control? Either that or break it up into multiple stages if they allow it.

No traction control doesn't necessarily mean a 7531 is out. Ask and find out.
x2 On the progressive (edlebrock of course)... It does wonders at calming the car..
I had the same problem kept extending the build time from
(all in @) .800 to 1.200 worked like a champ and pick up on et & mph..
 

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I'm about half a second off your time, but when my car stood up, I put weight in the back seat, moved the nitrous bottle (15 lb bottle) to the passenger seat, and tightened up the front struts to 7. This resulted in a clean straight launch that just carried the wheels less than a foot off the ground. But again, it was only a 1.34 sixty and a [email protected] I'm going 1.38 sixty on motor now with the front struts on 2, no weight in car, carrying front wheels 30 feet or so a foot or a little more off the ground. I'm going to be hitting it with 300 this year and have borrowed an NOS controller from a buddy who's getting away from nitrous. We'll see how it works. I plan to start it at 50% off the line and bring it in over 2 seconds to start.

Oh yeah, thats on 28x10.5S tires.
 

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I'm about half a second off your time, but when my car stood up, I put weight in the back seat, moved the nitrous bottle (15 lb bottle) to the passenger seat, and tightened up the front struts to 7. This resulted in a clean straight launch that just carried the wheels less than a foot off the ground. But again, it was only a 1.34 sixty and a [email protected] I'm going 1.38 sixty on motor now with the front struts on 2, no weight in car, carrying front wheels 30 feet or so a foot or a little more off the ground. I'm going to be hitting it with 300 this year and have borrowed an NOS controller from a buddy who's getting away from nitrous. We'll see how it works. I plan to start it at 50% off the line and bring it in over 2 seconds to start.

Oh yeah, thats on 28x10.5S tires.
She's gonna stand way up hittng it with 50% off the line. I had to come down to 20% to get the front calm down. At 35% it was doing this..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9acsA8Ekab4
 

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Yes, if you throw more power at it, you also have to compensate with tightening the front shocks, or you can limit travel also. Personally I have better luck with all the travel in it and a front end that's tighter than a lowrider with the hydraulics extended.
 

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I have made a 'Wheelie-Control' box for eight years. I didn't make it as a performance enhancing product and for liability sake never advertised as a safety device. I just make something to help guys from tearing up parts. Unfortunately many times I get a call monday morning from a racer telling me they wished they had my box yesterday and they wouldn't be replacing front end parts.

I will say over the time talking to guys, like mentioned many times earlier, the wheelstand condition occurs when the tire is not hit hard enough, weight transfers to the rear end, tire hooks and the car climbs the ring gear.

I don't have much experience with smaller tires compared to working with Pro Stock cars, but it seems like the same scenario. When you dead hook a PS car, the driver might as well kick the clutch in. Some times when we watch the tires damn near go up in smoke, walk back to the pits thinking the time slip for the short times will suck, they are bad ass. Again, not much experience with the smaller tire deal, there is alot of be said with higher rather than lower tire speed. I know higher tire speed as it might be hard to imagine is easier to control. Mainly because tire shake is out of the equation. Tire shake I guess isn't a problem with your tire yet an example.

Just get after the tire, put a set up in that thing where you will think you are way over center and work from there. If I were you, I would rather go up to the line worrying about blowing the tires off than sticking it on the ass end again.

For those guys on this thread replying that have a progressive, do you find a point of being 'too aggressive' and have the same wheel stand as not being aggressive enough?
 

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front end is pretty loose in that vid.. limit front travel down to 1/2 to 1 1/2 inch. put the screws to her..
OK I'll give that a try. Never knew limiting the front end travel would help. Learned something today. Thanks
 

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She's gonna stand way up hittng it with 50% off the line. I had to come down to 20% to get the front calm down. At 35% it was doing this..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9acsA8Ekab4
I was hitting it with supposedly 200 off the line last year on that 5.90 pass that was actually clean. I didn't have a progressive or any type of controllers at the time. Just a .073/.065 jet spread in the cold fusion plate. I'm kind of wondering whether the solenoids were truly flowing .073 worth of nitrous though. Guess we'll find out this year with the new kit.
 

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My Man, get those sissy bars off there!! ;)

Some good information here. You didn't say what you're using for front/rear shocks, having something adjustable is a huge plus, as are front end limiters.

Even with all that suff, I think there is still a chance of a wheelstand on any given day/track depending on all variables...

Have Fun! :cool:
 

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Trevor Stripling
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Limiting travel does work, but be aware that if you limit it down to next to nothing and you miss the tuneup and end up on the bumper you won't have much suspension to help control the down force of the weight of the car when it comes down and will really tear some shit up. Trust me. There are other ways to avoid dead hooking and you should use the limiters as a last resort. Front and rear shocks, tire pressure and how you apply the power are some good places to start.

Trevor

OK I'll give that a try. Never knew limiting the front end travel would help. Learned something today. Thanks
 

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agreed with trevor.....HOWEVER..... if you have 4inches of front end travel you're fighting a different kind of battle....

a half inch from 4 probably wont, help, but we've found as little as a 1/4 in away from three can make a huge difference...

we actually make a killer set of front end limiter that we use on our fox car if your interested.

Give me a shout if you'd like

859 983 3762
Eric

if i don't answer (may be with a customer) feel free to leave a message of text
 

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Limiting travel does work, but be aware that if you limit it down to next to nothing and you miss the tuneup and end up on the bumper you won't have much suspension to help control the down force of the weight of the car when it comes down and will really tear some shit up. Trust me. There are other ways to avoid dead hooking and you should use the limiters as a last resort. Front and rear shocks, tire pressure and how you apply the power are some good places to start.

Trevor
I know exactly what your saying, I stood mines on the bumper one night and she came down hard!! Leaving on 50% all in @ .800 (I'll post the video later) I do have stock location Strange adj (rear) & Lakewood 90/10 (front) coil overs.
My thinking was dead hooking was ideal with the frontend staying down.. should strange adj front struts be my next move?
 
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