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Been reading and searching to lock out a 85805 sbf dist. I don't want to pull and disassemble, I read that I can throw a weld on it and be done with it.

I have read that you spread the weights and weld them open, and I have read that weld them in the in position.. can someone tell me the way?

pic would be great!
 

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T/S 368E
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I've done this many many times for myself & buddy's.
Don't 1/2 ass it, do it right, it takes a few minutes to mark & do it as designed.


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take the weights,and springs off, tack weld the moving parts under rotor
 

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Take the springs off. Spread the weights out. Put a big blob of silicone seal or Right Stuff all over the weights and around the top of the shaft between the weights and the shaft. Fill the rotor with silicone so the whole area over the weights is full of it so when it sets up the weights cannot move. With them at full advance they will keep the mechanism locked by the centrifugal force when the engine is running and the silicone will act as a shock absorber. Let it set up overnight before you run it so the silicone will cure. This will lock it for temporary or permanent and you can "un-lock" it easier than if you welded it.

WTH, why not? :rolleyes:
 

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I forgot. Clean it good with Tri-chloroethylene brake cleaner so there is no oil film on the metal parts and the silicone will stick so well you will need explosives to get the rotor back off.
 

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I thought that most of the MSD units were set up at the factory , with a "two position" shaft lock thing.

If you look at the top of it under the rotor , springs, weights, there are a couple little holes that have pins in them ?

There is a little bolt through the shaft top, with a small nut under there, undo the nut, slide the shaft out abit, turn the shaft 180 degrees ( into the round hole , not the slotted hole ) , tighten the nut back up ? Take the weights and springs off.

Maybe not that model ?

MSD tech site :
First you'll need to remove the weights and springs. Remove the roll pin from the drive gear, then remove the gear and two bushings. The shaft can then be pulled up through the housing. Under the weight plate assembly, there is a nut that holds the advance stop bushing in place. Remove both the nut, washer and the bushing. The assembly can then be pulled up and separated from the shaft. Turn the weight plate assembly 180 degrees until the stud lines up with the small hole opposite the slot where the advance stop bushing sat. With the stud all the way down in the hole, reinstall the nut and washer. Reassemble the distributor and you're done! Remember that the springs and weights are not reinstalled.
 

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^ yep that's how my Pro billet is. You flip the Advance stop on the shaft 180* and bolt down the stud.
 

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what's the advantages of locking one vs non-locked, I have always been under the impression that engines don't idle good without the initial advance?
 

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Best think I ever did was lock mine out so drives much nicer on the street I was in denial for years about it. Now I see the light!
 

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You aren't thinking of welding on the distributor with it all assembled are you? I would never weld on anything on the engine assembled.
 

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If you don't want to flip it for whatever reason and do want to weld it it does not matter where the weights are. Once you weld it they are not moving and you then just set your timing. BUT i highly recommend flipping the plate 180* instead.
 

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T/S 368E
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You aren't thinking of welding on the distributor with it all assembled are you?
I would never weld on anything on the engine assembled.



Exactly my point, sounds idiotic to me!!!
Too lazy to take a few minutes and do it right.



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If you don't want to flip it for whatever reason and do want to weld it it does not matter where the weights are. Once you weld it they are not moving and you then just set your timing. BUT i highly recommend flipping the plate 180* instead.

Only one thing to add. Be sure to check rotor phasing afterwords because if its not correct you will fight issues for a week like i did after welding a HEI many years ago...
 

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Already been mentioned above the correct way to do it, remove the cam gear, raise the shaft up, turn it 180* and drop the lock out stud into the hole and put the nylon nut back on...done, and reversible if you decide to change direction down the road.

I will also add, while you have the punch out to driveout the roll pin to do this correctly, check shaft end play. I've purchased 5 msd pro billet dizzy's from msd and not a one was set right, all were as sloppy as the neighborhood whore. If I recall for the sbc msd pro billet they recommend .008-.012 end play, so if you don't have a shim kit, order one before embarking on this adventure and kill two birds with one stone.

learned about it the very first engine I ever took to have engine dynode and the shop owner was checking timing with his gun and it was moving a lot from idle to above 3000 rpm. He shut it down, pulled the dizzy and moved the shaft and said whoa, look at this, we aren't doing anything until this is fixed, so he took care of it on the spot and timing was rock solid from there on out. I later experienced the timing fluctuation (1-3 degrees) with the varying dizzy's over the yrs I'd buy, shim them correctly and timing is solid no matter the rpm.
 

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Only one thing to add. Be sure to check rotor phasing afterwords because if its not correct you will fight issues for a week like i did after welding a HEI many years ago...


How do you phase the rotor on a standard distributor??



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