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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello, Kinda starting a build thread when the truck is about 90% done. Ive been over on the turbo forum and Holley's forum getting all the bugs worked out.



Truck is a 1980 C10, TH400, 3200 stall, LQ4, LJMS stage 2 cam, springs, and push rods. Running a s475 knock off, Deka 80lb injectors, 93 octane, studs, gaped rings, Cometic gaskets, Holley HP EFI, dual 400lph pumps, etc....


I am to the point where I need to get the suspension lined out so I came over here to get some info from the pros. I have Smith Race Racecraft Assasin bars sitting in my garage so I think ill hook pretty well with those at my power level (only running 10psi for now).



(if anyone wants to throw out what my power level might be please do. Id guess around 550-600 to the wheels on 10 psi)



What I need help with is the front suspension. Going 100mph in this truck is sketchy as shit. I live in Mustang, OK so I will eventually be taking the truck to Mustang alignment. They are a highly regarded shop and I trust them to do a good job.



I have replaced every wearable item on the front, upper and lower ball joints, new spindles, pit-man arm, idler arm, and all the tie rods. but I would like some input/ideas on the steering. Should I just run factory stuff and deal with it or swap over to a tighter rack and pinion. I'm okay with spending the money for tubular control arms and all that jazz but is it worth the money? I just want tight steering and I don't think I'm going to get it with the factory gear box.



Any input or constructive criticism is welcomed on the build. I have never been on a track so I need some wisdom from the seasoned guys/gals.






https://imgur.com/S8QBISe
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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the weight savings alone on the arms makes a bid differnce, not to mention the stability, and its a fairly easy swap if you do the brake kit.

i didnt even look at the price of that ridetech kit, but your truck looks nice enough to be on that budget scale.
 

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I've been 8.97 @ 149.56 mph with my 84 , not sketchy at all. CPP upper and lower control arms , 2 in drop spindles and 1 in drop coils . Stock steering. Afco D/A shocks. Trying to go faster this year.
 

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What I need help with is the front suspension. Going 100mph in this truck is sketchy as shit.

---

My '71 has stock front end parts, but I put a bunch of caster in [5*]It's a little vague as far as feel, but it drives nicely at speed imo. I used adjustable C/E shocks set on 90/10 at the track. Those tubular front control arms look nice, but unless they improve the geometry somehow, I can see them being all that much of an improvement.

My combo was a toad compared to gbeauregard's, but here's an in-truck video that shows how it drives at 120. A little steering at the launch [needed more on the RR], but you could use one finger the rest of the trip.


Dave
 

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Stock alignment specs suck . you need as much caster as you can get. Mine has 7 degrees , the CPP control arms help the caster and keep the wheel centered in the wheel well
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Little update on the truck.



I did a dyno challenge at the c10 Nationals. This was my first experience ever with a dyno and it was pretty fun. Got second place and a trophy so I thought that was pretty cool. This has me hooked on getting more power and trying to win it next year. The winner put down 749 and I feel like I can beat that next year fairly easily. The pull was only on 8psi and 91 and I was running EXTREMELY conservative timing.



Since the dyno challenge I have installed gen 4 rods and pistons (they were free), BTR ls9 gaskets, ARP studs (ditched the china studs), added a MAC valve for boost control with the Holley, and changed over to E85. Ive been through about a dozen plugs inching up on the timing while running 14 psi and I think i have the timing pretty good. After about a few weeks of driving on the 14 psi I decided I needed some assistance in the traction department so I threw on a set of Smith Racecraft Assassin bars. The traction bars made a huge difference and this thing flat out gets it. Well it did for about 60 miles of me beating on it.



My junk summit racing converter can hold the power and it will blow right through it and hit the rev limiter or that is what I'm ASSuming is happening. Reverse gear is shot and now it wont always shift back to first after coming to a stop. I'm pretty sure this TH400 is just a stock 400 as I bought it used.



So my next plan is to upgrade the transmission. I would like to go to a 4l80E with a manual VB so any pointers on choosing the right 4 speed would be a huge help. I have have been to tons of drag races but I have never participated in one and I would like to give it a go. Ive built most of the truck with this in mind and have done a lot of things to make it legal for the ET that I would expect this truck to run. (longer wheel studs, drive shaft loop, battery shut off, etc)

















 

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Discussion Starter #10
Stock alignment specs suck . you need as much caster as you can get. Mine has 7 degrees , the CPP control arms help the caster and keep the wheel centered in the wheel well

I took the truck to a local shop here in Mustang and had the alignment done. Its a night and day difference. I can cruise at 80 easier in this truck than I can in my 13 ram 2500.
 

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nice updates!

heres a built 4l80 with a proper PTC converter for $3500 in fort worth

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/313651695938285/











Marketplace›
Auto Parts
RPM 4L80E stage 4 with PTC 4000 stall converter
Fort Worth, TX · over a week ago ·
$3,500
Car has made about 10 1/8 mile passes and we switched to turbo
Condition
Used - Like New
Brand
RPM
 

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Discussion Starter #12

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the good thing about buying one from PTC is they can take it back and make it do what you want it to do..

heres an n/a car cruising around just for fun, stolen from another thread.

 

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My '71 has stock front end parts, but I put a bunch of caster in [5*]It's a little vague as far as feel, but it drives nicely at speed imo. I used adjustable C/E shocks set on 90/10 at the track. Those tubular front control arms look nice, but unless they improve the geometry somehow, I can see them being all that much of an improvement.





My combo was a toad compared to gbeauregard's, but here's an in-truck video that shows how it drives at 120. A little steering at the launch [needed more on the RR], but you could use one finger the rest of the trip.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jja7ocXqHKk

Dave

You should center the wheel. All steering boxes have a "sweet spot" at the center of travel. That's assuming of course that the wheel/ column/ coupler to the box is as it should be rotationally
 

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nice updates!

heres a built 4l80 with a proper PTC converter for $3500 in fort worth





That's not an 80e, that's a 60e.
 

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OP, I love your truck. I am a broke ass school teacher with hotrod dreams, so anytime you are prepared to sell it for a price that is significantly less than it is worth let me know. :D
 
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