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Discussion Starter #1
So I've done a few searches and found a lot of different answers on different ways to measure pinion angle. I really am not trying to stir that hornets nest. What I would like to know is guys that are going fast , say 5.50 and faster what degree is working for you? Also what symptoms have you experienced with the angle being off? Please explain. Have you ever had it cause a hook/ spin condition? Let's hear it thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah I really wasn't happy with the conversation I had with Calvert about the topic. They basically said they offset the two angles. The guy told me they don't take a measurement on the drive shaft. When I questioned about optimal working angle and its effect on the "hit" , I was put on hold while he talked to Travis. He then got back on the phone and reassured me to offset the front and rear angles.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Mine is sitting at about 8° now. I know that might be a bit much but do you see it causing issues?
 

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I believe on a car with caltracs how much separation the car needs has a pretty good effect on the pinion angle needed. On ours I would run 4.5-5 degrees if I knew the track was going to be hot and greasy, if we were going to be on a track like Holly Springs I'd knock it down to 3 degrees. Our chevy II would go from uncovering the entire sidewall with the shocks loose to barely moving with them stiff so that shows how much suspension movement we were getting.
 

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No to much, I have not seen cause what your describing, but 8* is a ton, like a Manual trans with a lot of separation and it would still be a lot. (to much)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So does more angle let it hit the tire harder? We are running 26x8.5s. The game I have been playing is tighten shocks so its not killing the tire on the hit but then it spins about 5 feet out. I cant seem to get better than low 1.40 60s I have tried tire psi from 12-17. The car only seams to seperate about an inch maybe 2 with shocks loose.
 

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My get is you have it set up to hit the tire to hard then you tighten the shock so tight it hits any track change the shock wont let it follow the track. OR the front hits a hard stop and is breaking the rear tire loose. Video helps throw the correct Dart
 

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Janderson, does your car have sliders? It's one of the things I did on ours that helped a bunch, also put them on the maverick in the video I posted in the shock sticky a couple of days ago. Are you running a big block?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Janderson, does your car have sliders? It's one of the things I did on ours that helped a bunch, also put them on the maverick in the video I posted in the shock sticky a couple of days ago. Are you running a big block?
The car has shackles. yes its a big block. The car sits really low, and has an aftermarket front clip on it with coil overs. The car has never really carried the front end like i would like it to. I assume the low center of gravity is to blame. The chassis seems to respond better when i give it more power off the line, Its just been a problem of getting it to stick if a track isnt perfect. I will try to post some videos. Thanks Jason
 

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I'm not saying a car has to have sliders, I've dealt with quite a few that had shackles that worked great. The main thing is to have zero bind in the rear suspension, and I believe the sliders just make it easier to accomplish this. Your setup sounds very similar to ours .
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Looks like its killin the tire.
yeah it will put the rim on the ground lol.

So in those videos I was trying lower tire psi and try to control it with a tight shock setting. Couldn't get that to work. Last outing I went way up on the tires and started loosening the shocks. It hooked then spun, but it did look better on the hit. I got a little gready on the tune also, should of pulled a bit more on the hit. Haven't been out since. Jeff what would you set pinion angle at? I was thinking somewhere around 5 degrees. Thanks for the input guys.
 

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With Automatics we start out with 4 to 5 if its a bigger tire. Then go Pro it Back. If you can work on the front by pointing the tailshaft straight to the pinion in a straight line When building from Scratch I have used a tube threw the mains right into the rear end bearings if that picture helps my poor description then when done turn the pinion down so the working angle of the rear joint is 4* negative. Make sense?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Jeff that is how it is set up, only I think the pinion could come up. I'm just not wanting it to hit harder.
Mike the bar is slightly up hill to the spring eye with it in the upper hole. Lower hole is not usable with the 8.5s the bracket was so low. Lower hole would run down hill anyways so I did away with it for ground clearance.
 

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Def looks like its killing the tire. Same thing my 55 is doing. Im new to Caltracs but my pinion angle is set between 5 & 6 and seems to be working ok but I think its a bit much NA. From looking at the gopro shots, Im sure it would be fine at 4 degrees. My car is lowered alot too, so I run the bars in the upper hole which points them slightly up in the front, but since its killing the tires Im gonna try the lower hole next time at the track just to see how it reacts. Although it may not be optimum, Ive seen some pretty quick cars running the bars level or slightly downhill in the front.
 
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