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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone else have a problem with reaction times when having to release the TB deep into the bottom bulb? I've been struggling to recalibrate my brain for the pause before releasing the button but it's killing me. The adjustable TB switches seem like a good idea but also seem like another variable.
 

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I went through it a couple years ago...I footbraked for 30 years off the bottom then NHRA decided to kill the footbrake class and make it no box. I made my car quicker the year they did it and that compounded problems. 1.200 60 fts and my car needing to leave at a high RPM it was just too much to sit on it that long. After half a summer and fall of wasting time and money on those damn delay switches I said the hell with it and went to box....

How fast is your car?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I went through it a couple years ago...I footbraked for 30 years off the bottom then NHRA decided to kill the footbrake class and make it no box. I made my car quicker the year they did it and that compounded problems. 1.200 60 fts and my car needing to leave at a high RPM it was just too much to sit on it that long. After half a summer and fall of wasting time and money on those damn delay switches I said the hell with it and went to box....

How fast is your car?
It run between 6.07-6.18 1/8. I have mustang 2 front suspension with not much travel and the car pops the wheels just enough to clear the beams even with the shocks limiting rise. I just added more anti squat to try to keep the wheels on the ground, haven't been to the track to try it yet. I've lowered front tire pressure and 2 step rpm but I have to raise it again, the car doesn't like it. I have a box to install but I really like the wider window of the no box races, box races are so dang tight.
 

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T/S 368E
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Good luck with that.
First points race of the year in no box I got murdered by a .0008 light.
2nd points race of the year in no box I got murdered by a .0004 light.

The first race was a multi-time track champion.
2nd race was a multi-time track champion and double enters every race.
He runs no box & box at every points race without using a box.
Yes I did end up winning a few rounds and got some much much easier R/T's thrown at me,
but with the electronics & cheater buttons out there, the no box window isn't as big as it used to be!!!


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Anyone else have a problem with reaction times when having to release the TB deep into the bottom bulb? I've been struggling to recalibrate my brain for the pause before releasing the button but it's killing me. The adjustable TB switches seem like a good idea but also seem like another variable.
You can not try to pause on the last yellow. You will never get the same light twice. You need to make sure you stage the car as shallow as possible every time and let go of the TB as soon as you see the last yellow. You need to make sure you are seeing it and not anticipating it which is easer said than done. A good way to see if you are anticipating it is to try a 5 tenths pro tree at a TNT. That's the only way to get a consistent light. An adjustable long throw button will repeat without a problem. If it makes you late you can use the spacers to adjust it. But if you are still going red you will need to make adjustments to the car. There are several things you can do like front tire diameter - tire pressures - loosening the front suspension - lowering launch RPM- If the car is jumping out of the beams as mentioned above you can add weight to the nose of the car. There may be more than that but that is all I can think of right now.
 

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If you were good off the foot I don't see the reason to fight using a brake, although it is a your decision how you race. I had the same problems when we first went to No Box at my home track. At that time I was a 5.80 car in my roadster. Couldn't get a spot on the tree even with the long throw buttons. Went back to foot feeding and haven't looked back. It turned out to be a good decision because Division 4 changed to foot brake in the Pro ET class. I'm 5.60-5.70 now and still off the foot.
 

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Hard not to anticipate the light. We fought it all season, son (16) could get .0x - .00x lights then go red then .1x. Kept telling him hit it the same each time, don't try for perfect .000000, but easier said than done. So last time out we had him hit the .500 pro tree and he went .060, .055, .052 (all 1.49 60') so he can do pretty good, close enough we could adjust the car to bring it down, but watching those sportsman lights come down is tough. Said he liked the pro tree a lot more lol.
 

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I hear guys say all the time they can tune out the first 2 bulbs, and hit the 3rd.
I can't, I keep seeing them and screws me up

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
From watching video,my reaction times and couch testing with my portatree I'm thinking I need .125 or more to hit my sweet spot range. I've made some changes to slow the roll out I'll get to try this weekend. Until I can figure it out without having to launch at foot brake rpm I'm going to try a box I have. Either way I'm a duck right now, it's a tough job but someone has to do it. 😂
 

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I didn't read all of the replies, but you adjust the car to your natural reaction time.
Anticipation and counting will get you donating every race day.

I'm not great, but have won some stuff.

My 2¢.
 

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I don't think it would much easier to foot brake it. Foot brake is cool, if that's what a person wants to do. It's just not what I want to do.
Can I ask what you want to achieve by leaving off the brake? I don't mean that adversarial at all I have often wondered about this for No Box racers. Is it the consistent rpm, quicker ET, or I'm just not sure what?

Curtis
 

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It run between 6.07-6.18 1/8. I have mustang 2 front suspension with not much travel and the car pops the wheels just enough to clear the beams even with the shocks limiting rise. I just added more anti squat to try to keep the wheels on the ground, haven't been to the track to try it yet. I've lowered front tire pressure and 2 step rpm but I have to raise it again, the car doesn't like it. I have a box to install but I really like the wider window of the no box races, box races are so dang tight.
IMO you can adjust a 6.0 6.teen car for the bottom bulb. I didn't start to have trouble until I started heading into the mid 5's.

Am I guessing right that you have a 3 speed and pretty steep gears in it?
 

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I am not sure the issue, but as many have said to adjust the car to your reaction time. There are several things you can do in addition to the adjustable transbrake. Add/take away shims, front tire pressure, rear tire pressure, RPM leave, etc...even blinders were mentioned.

I have been racing off the bottom bulb the entire time. I use a transbrake with my Super Stocker and I have foot braked with my Stocker at the same races when I am running two classes. Now I am using a transbrake with my Super Stocker and a clutch with my Stocker at the same races off the bottom bulb. I adjust both cars to me and don't really have any issues.

Only difference now is that I am open tree where I was using a blinder with the foot brake when my Stocker had an automatic. I used the blinder on my Super Stocker also. I try to be consistent with how I look in both cars at the tree.
 

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I use a long throw button and use the springs to adjust it each race. Another thing i do to block the top 2 bulbs out is tape my visor up completely to only a small line of sight. I stage and tilt my head down and then look upward with my eyes. It puts alot of focas on the 3rd bulb. I never see the others. I go WOT and sit until the 3rd comes on. After dark i give the car 200 rpm more since the brighter flash kinda slows my RT a touch. If you had success off the foot then just continue to do that. Ever heard of Nasty Nick Hastings? Foot brakes all over the country and gets it done that way.
 

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Can I ask what you want to achieve by leaving off the brake? I don't mean that adversarial at all I have often wondered about this for No Box racers. Is it the consistent rpm, quicker ET, or I'm just not sure what?

Curtis
Since the OP didnt answer I will from my perspective. The trans brake is a more consistent release, brake pressure isnt an issue like it is when footbraking, and you dont have to burn on the converter like you do when you are footbraking against a slow car.

That is my thoughts anyways.

If you can set the car up right, it will be better in the long run.
 
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