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Discussion Starter #1
Last season fought some hp problems but working on getting that fixed. Looking into suspension side of things now also.
Sometimes it Will hop other times it just blows the tires off.
Best has been 1.30. Going to have to be alot quicker.

Just wanting to learn more from those in the know for tuning in a higher hp leaf spring car. If your car was launching like this what would you change? Or see that needs changing....https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5de7542a81a2d/received_446833806140291.mp4https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5de7551a84343/received_460242031212793.mp4https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5de7555bbae3c/received_346977585977328.mp4

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Last season fought some hp problems but working on getting that fixed. Looking into suspension side of things now also.
Sometimes it Will hop other times it just blows the tires off.
Best has been 1.30. Going to have to be alot quicker.

Just wanting to learn more from those in the know for tuning in a higher hp leaf spring car. If your car was launching like this what would you change? Or see that needs changing....https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5de7542a81a2d/received_446833806140291.mp4https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5de7551a84343/received_460242031212793.mp4https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5de7555bbae3c/received_346977585977328.mp4

Sent from my RS988 using Tapatalk
Both sets of shocks are too loose and it doesnt have enough tire pressure to start. Also needs to bring the power in a bunch quicker.
 

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Right now the car is seperating instantly, as well as the front extending very quick. Thats causing it to stick the tire (also crushing sidewall), and it doesnt have the power at that point to drive through it and keep it loaded so it bounces back up and the car starts to do the bouncing motion that your seeing. Any time I see a car thats bouncing its due to lack of power after its been hit too hard. Once it bounces and it has enough power it will blow the tire off. Its a fine line, thats why its best to get the bounce out, and it will be alittle more forgiving.

You need to look at your G meter, D shaft sensor, and if you want to go fast add 1 rear shock sensor (they have dropped a bunch in price). Those 3 things combined will let you dial the car in, in just a few passes.

So yes I would tighten up the front extension, this will help slow down the weight transfer and allow full transfer to happen further out when power starts to come in
Front compression - I havent seen it matter on a car thats working good, I run it real tight
Rear extension - tighten it up to try and slow that rear seperating down, let the tire get alittle rotation and set itself up before bringing power in
Rear compression - Would start probably in the middle and see how far out it spins or bounces.

Before any of this you need to start a baseline for the caltrac bars and a baseline for air pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
When your old man is taking the video and isnt used to using cell phones much. Not everyone is as tech savy as you lighten up bud lol

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Discussion Starter #7
Right now the car is seperating instantly, as well as the front extending very quick. Thats causing it to stick the tire (also crushing sidewall), and it doesnt have the power at that point to drive through it and keep it loaded so it bounces back up and the car starts to do the bouncing motion that your seeing. Any time I see a car thats bouncing its due to lack of power after its been hit too hard. Once it bounces and it has enough power it will blow the tire off. Its a fine line, thats why its best to get the bounce out, and it will be alittle more forgiving.

You need to look at your G meter, D shaft sensor, and if you want to go fast add 1 rear shock sensor (they have dropped a bunch in price). Those 3 things combined will let you dial the car in, in just a few passes.

So yes I would tighten up the front extension, this will help slow down the weight transfer and allow full transfer to happen further out when power starts to come in
Front compression - I havent seen it matter on a car thats working good, I run it real tight
Rear extension - tighten it up to try and slow that rear seperating down, let the tire get alittle rotation and set itself up before bringing power in
Rear compression - Would start probably in the middle and see how far out it spins or bounces.

Before any of this you need to start a baseline for the caltrac bars and a baseline for air pressure.
Thank you for that helpful insight!

I will look into those items. Adding a few more sensors and points of data was high on the list for this year!

Sent from my RS988 using Tapatalk
 

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Right now the car is seperating instantly, as well as the front extending very quick. Thats causing it to stick the tire (also crushing sidewall), and it doesnt have the power at that point to drive through it and keep it loaded so it bounces back up and the car starts to do the bouncing motion that your seeing. Any time I see a car thats bouncing its due to lack of power after its been hit too hard. Once it bounces and it has enough power it will blow the tire off. Its a fine line, thats why its best to get the bounce out, and it will be alittle more forgiving.

You need to look at your G meter, D shaft sensor, and if you want to go fast add 1 rear shock sensor (they have dropped a bunch in price). Those 3 things combined will let you dial the car in, in just a few passes.

So yes I would tighten up the front extension, this will help slow down the weight transfer and allow full transfer to happen further out when power starts to come in
Front compression - I havent seen it matter on a car thats working good, I run it real tight
Rear extension - tighten it up to try and slow that rear seperating down, let the tire get alittle rotation and set itself up before bringing power in
Rear compression - Would start probably in the middle and see how far out it spins or bounces.

Before any of this you need to start a baseline for the caltrac bars and a baseline for air pressure.

Good stuff!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Right now the car is only equipped with the basic stuff. Grid with widebands, promax controller monitors pan vac, etc. Wondering if there is a way to get some shock sensor data thru 0v-5v references in grid logging or if thats a no go. Was thinking about adding an arc module to gain the ds speed. Maybe just a basic racepack would be cheaper.

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Right now the car is only equipped with the basic stuff. Grid with widebands, promax controller monitors pan vac, etc. Wondering if there is a way to get some shock sensor data thru 0v-5v references in grid logging or if thats a no go. Was thinking about adding an arc module to gain the ds speed. Maybe just a basic racepack would be cheaper.

Sent from my RS988 using Tapatalk
I can say I relate to you buddy,

I used to run my car with nothing but a go pro camera in the interior to monitor the gauges and a cell camera out back to try and look at the suspension. We went decently fast with that but there is just no substitute for data.

Don't get me wrong, I still mess stuff up all the time even with data, it just allows you to see your mistakes quicker lol

You definitely wont regret having more data, just need to make sure its good data. If you told me I could only have 3 sensors and thats it, I want Pan Vac, G meter, and rear shock sensor. Those are what let you go fast, all the rest just let you know when you blew it up
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I was looking into the altronics dataquest setup. Looked like it would provide all that is needed and add in a low dollar racing shock sensor and looks like it would be a lot more information!

Racepak sportsman looked ok but just seemed more money and slower sampling rate. Maybe I'm wrong.
 

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Right now the car is seperating instantly, as well as the front extending very quick. Thats causing it to stick the tire (also crushing sidewall), and it doesnt have the power at that point to drive through it and keep it loaded so it bounces back up and the car starts to do the bouncing motion that your seeing. Any time I see a car thats bouncing its due to lack of power after its been hit too hard. Once it bounces and it has enough power it will blow the tire off. Its a fine line, thats why its best to get the bounce out, and it will be alittle more forgiving.

You need to look at your G meter, D shaft sensor, and if you want to go fast add 1 rear shock sensor (they have dropped a bunch in price). Those 3 things combined will let you dial the car in, in just a few passes.

So yes I would tighten up the front extension, this will help slow down the weight transfer and allow full transfer to happen further out when power starts to come in
Front compression - I havent seen it matter on a car thats working good, I run it real tight
Rear extension - tighten it up to try and slow that rear seperating down, let the tire get alittle rotation and set itself up before bringing power in
Rear compression - Would start probably in the middle and see how far out it spins or bounces.

Before any of this you need to start a baseline for the caltrac bars and a baseline for air pressure.
Best explanation on how to set it up and what to look for. Very good info.
 

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I was looking into the altronics dataquest setup. Looked like it would provide all that is needed and add in a low dollar racing shock sensor and looks like it would be a lot more information!

Racepak sportsman looked ok but just seemed more money and slower sampling rate. Maybe I'm wrong.
The racepak sportsman is a nice unit for the money in its base configuration, but when you want to start adding sensors down the road you run into 2 problems, sensor and vnet cost, and channel volume.

We have recently been pushing the Fueltech stuff. I converted my setup over to it and cant say enough good things about it. Datalog, dashboard, tuning, all in one setup/program. Also gives you the ability to convert to injection later on down the line. Just gotta price everything out and see what works best for what your wanting to do.
 
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