Yellow Bullet Forums banner

1 - 20 of 52 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Combo is a 540ci tall deck bowtie block, Eagle crank and rods and JE domed pistons. Chinese aluminum heads that have been gone through locally. Comp solid flat tappet cam and lifters and Crane stud mount rockers (not turning it much over 6500). King bearings throughout. Whole motor was just freshened up due to a valve spring failure.

This is only the second oil change on it, first was the break-in oil change and that filter was dirtier for sure but nothing to be alarmed about. This oil and filter has maybe 20 miles and a handful of 3/4 throttle pulls on it, didn't suspect anything just wanted to make sure all was still well with it. Oil pressure has always been excellent, around 50PSI warm idle and well over 60PSI when I get into it. Have been running Valvoline VR1 20W50 high zinc oil at recommendation of engine builder.

This is quite literally the only piece of metal I found in the oil, every other pleat looked pristine. Oil in the filter had barely any metal in it at all, certainly not enough for my phone camera to pick up. Oil in the pan looked pristine and there was no metal on the drain plug. Piece is about the size of a fingernail, doesn't really seem big enough to be part of a lifter but don't know for sure. I have not gotten the chance to check valve lash since the last time it ran but I spent a considerable amount of time listening to the valvetrain and couldn't hear any inconsistencies in the sewing machine sound.

Going to call engine builder to get his thoughts, but in the meantime any guesses from the bullet?
233129
 

·
Long Live The King
Joined
·
106,102 Posts
Are you sure it's metal ?

If that's the only thing you see, and if inside the valve cover rails (oil return channels are clean) you're probably Good to Go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Teflon valve seal retainer ring if it is shiny on outer surface?
It looks identical on the other side. Appears to be part of something larger diameter than that but it has probably been distorted - will pull valve covers and inspect for sure.

Are you sure it's metal ?

If that's the only thing you see, and if inside the valve cover rails (oil return channels are clean) you're probably Good to Go.
I didn't test to see if it was magnetic, but I did bend it around and it is definitely metal.
We already put new oil in (did so before cutting the filter - rookie mistake lol) so the drivers head should be clean regardless but the passenger side should still be a good indicator.

Thanks for the replies so far! If anyone has any other ideas feel free to chime in, so far it sounds like I may have gotten lucky with this one but we shall see.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,195 Posts
Could have been in the oil filter from their manufacture process. Doesn’t look like any thing in an engine that I know of. That’s why I like the system one oil filters. You can take them apart and clean them. You know they are clean when you install it. What kind of filter as that
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Could have been in the oil filter from their manufacture process. Doesn’t look like any thing in an engine that I know of. That’s why I like the system one oil filters. You can take them apart and clean them. You know they are clean when you install it. What kind of filter as that
I hear ya, I'd like a System 1 but for the price it's a little hard to justify. We've been running only Wix 51060r filters, I'd be surprised if that was in there from the mfg.

Although now that I think of it, that could be a piece of the filter that fell in when we were cutting it open. It matches the curvature of the metal as we cut it off. In the heat of the moment my mind immediately went to engine failure but now that you mention it this seems more reasonable lol.

Will still pull valve covers and make sure all is in order, but as of right now that explanation makes the most sense.
 

·
Long Live The King
Joined
·
106,102 Posts
I hear ya, I'd like a System 1 but for the price it's a little hard to justify. We've been running only Wix 51060r filters, I'd be surprised if that was in there from the mfg.
Those Wix Racing filters have a 61 micron rating. If the engine is something that's going to be together for a while and get some miles on it you might want to consider something that will filter your oil in the sub 20 micron range.

Good luck with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,134 Posts
Napa Gold is Wix. 1061 is 21 micron for Chevy. 1060 has the non needed anti drain back valve. You can use them for initial start up and break in oil. Then Wix 51061R with 61 micron for the track.. Napa can get the 51061R.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,862 Posts
I hear ya, I'd like a System 1 but for the price it's a little hard to justify. We've been running only Wix 51060r filters, I'd be surprised if that was in there from the mfg.

Although now that I think of it, that could be a piece of the filter that fell in when we were cutting it open. It matches the curvature of the metal as we cut it off. In the heat of the moment my mind immediately went to engine failure but now that you mention it this seems more reasonable lol.

Will still pull valve covers and make sure all is in order, but as of right now that explanation makes the most sense.
I get the system one is costly. Do some math though. My system one filter is 19 years old. Still all original. Hundreds of oil changes/washes. Still going strong.
 

·
Long Live The King
Joined
·
106,102 Posts
Napa Gold is Wix. 1061 is 21 micron for Chevy. 1060 has the non needed anti drain back valve. You can use them for initial start up and break in oil. Then Wix 51061R with 61 micron for the track.. Napa can get the 51061R.
The reasoning for the Wix R at the track ?

if you aren’t running a dry sump what’s the benefit of it ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The farthest the car will ever see on the street is a couple miles to a local car show, it runs on 110 so not really feasible to drive it much more than that. And on the street we do run an air filter on it FWIW. So for a 90% track/10% street car would the regular 51061 still be better than the R? Oil pressure with the R is already quite strong, is there a chance the regular could restrict it to the point of being a detriment?

As for the System 1, I like the idea of it but I'm not yet convinced that we'll actually be keeping this car longer than through this season which is why I'm hesitant. I have another project waiting in the wings that will be more street friendly, hopefully to do drag week and events like that, and that car will get a System 1 for sure as I plan on driving the wheels off that one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
FYI WIX was bought out by Mann-Hummel some time ago and they aren’t what they used to be. Still a decent product but be aware that the bean counters at M-H are working on the entire product line. Baldwin still manufactures a quality product.
 

·
Long Live The King
Joined
·
106,102 Posts
The farthest the car will ever see on the street is a couple miles to a local car show, it runs on 110 so not really feasible to drive it much more than that. And on the street we do run an air filter on it FWIW. So for a 90% track/10% street car would the regular 51061 still be better than the R? Oil pressure with the R is already quite strong, is there a chance the regular could restrict it to the point of being a detriment?
Something restrictive yes, but something like a Jomar (20 microns) or a K&N, Moroso, or a Baldwin B279 would be just fine. There are a few others too.

The B279 has an 18 micron rating, flows 15 gpm at just 5 psi, and is 75% efficient. It also has a by-pass built in.

It can flow more gpm at 5 psi than your wet sump pump can pump thru your engine at 7,000 rpm.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 70_half and SMJr

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,889 Posts
The reasoning for the Wix R at the track ?

if you aren’t running a dry sump what’s the benefit of it ?
Even then if you are running a dry sump why the 60 micron filter?
I run napa golds on all my engines....
Never ever an issue... Hell my 532 is dry sump, has 500+ 1/4 mile passes on it and a napa gold since built....
Bout to get to 650+ passes after this season
Still runs 180+ mph like it did from day one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,889 Posts
Something restrictive yes, but something like a Jomar (20 microns) or a K&N, Moroso, or a Baldwin B279 would be just fine. There are a few others too.

The B279 has an 18 micron rating, flows 15 gpm at just 5 psi, and is 75% efficient. It also has a by-pass built in.

It can flow more gpm at 5 psi than your wet sump pump can pump thru your engine at 7,000 rpm.
Is that baldwin B279 the std chevy thread?
I want to get some to try, just never did yet.
 

·
Long Live The King
Joined
·
106,102 Posts
Is that baldwin B279 the std chevy thread?
I want to get some to try, just never did yet.

Chevrolet B-279

Big and Small Block Chev High Performance filter.

Full-Flow Lube Filter, Spin-On, Length 5 11/32 In, Outside Dia 3 11/16 In, Thread Pitch 13/16-16, Includes Anti-Drainback Valve and 20PSID By-Pass Valve Includes
 
  • Like
Reactions: SMJr

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,748 Posts
They are so good, you need to run 2! Lol
 
1 - 20 of 52 Posts
Top