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Discussion Starter #1
Well as the Torino is now dead for a while I've moved back to something I used to mess with before I bought the old muscle car.......

Say hello to my little friend! 1957 88" Series 1 Land Rover, I got it back in 2014 before the prices went stupid, took it green laning, killed the engine (forgot to turn the electric fan on and cooked a head), rebuilt that engine, lost interest, sold the engine, put a new engine in, lost interest and bought the Torino so sold that engine to fund some speed parts, bought another engine then sold it again when I decided it had to be a V8 not an Essex V6, lost interest again....and now the White Whale is dead and a bit more costly to repair than this I'm back to rebuilding the 88!

So here are a few old pics, a video and some new pics.

Spent today cutting off the old engine mounts as I'm going to solid mount the new engine.....prefer having a bit of vehicle rocking when you rev the motor and thats kinda hard with a 3.5L Rover (not my favourite engine by a longshot but it was only 2 packs of Haribo!)


Bit of off road action and I'm pretty sure this was the lane I cracked the head on




Just a bit of revving and idle




And the pics!


So this was it when it was in use









And that brings use nicely onto here where some magic is about to take place! My welding skills haven't really been taxed for a while and this month I've got this to repair, new engine mounts to make and a set of 12 Merlin engine exhaust stub pipes to fabricate, means I'll be getting a lot of TIG practice













And as of yesterday the front end was off, only took about 35 mins....this evening was then spent cutting off the old mounts and getting the frame ready to be welded.











Finally a baby V8! Its strange being able to carry the block round one handed when I cant even do that with one of the 429 heads without struggling! The valve pic is one of my 429 intake valves Vs. the whole chamber of the 3.5








 

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Nice of the wife to let you haul parts in the Volvo wagon! Ive always wanted one of these but state side their hens teeth and worth more then a pot of gold.

What year did they go to aluminum bodies? Cool project.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Oi thats my wagon :p I sold the other landrover and got a nice cheap runaround....although I think it may need a clutch and timing belt at some point in the next 15k

Always been ally bodies since 48, means they're nice and light. Got my engine mounts ready for forming and the mock up block ready to go in. All I need now is a dry day and a bit of motivation
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Minimal motivation and a lack of progress until Monday....

Carried the mock up block round to where the car is languishing and bolted it up, real nice being able to hold an engine block with one arm and wrestle it into place whilst having a hand free to stick the bolts through the bellhousing and tighten it!
Couldn't do that with the 429!

So plan of action is to triangulate the chassis mounts back to the chassis then put a nice radius on them so they don't look so agricultural, take a set of standard engine mounts and modify them to bolt up to the new chassis tabs then pull the mock up block out and drop in the new running one thats arriving next Monday......simple right?

The modified mounts will have two positions one 4" further back than the other, this will allow me to do a 5 speed conversion in the future as the engine needs to come 4" forward in order to allow the transfer case and handbrake assembly to clear the central crossmember







 

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Discussion Starter #5
Change of plan on this, bought a 5 speed box so now I'm making the whole lot fit.....alongside that, thanks to uni I haven't had as much time as I thought I would.

Managed to get a little welding in and remembered how much I hate welding bodywork, its not pretty but its solid now.


































 

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Discussion Starter #6


























The new engines also been here for a while, this is what a 14,000 mile engine looks like internally.

















Now as a 5 speed LT77-LT230 set up comes in around 8" longer than an LT76 Series transmission I have to move the engine forward in order to make it all work.

To do this I've simply made up some ally brackets with slots cut out, not neat but for measurement purposes it'll be fine. Plan is to slide the engine all the way forward (I know I need to leave 6" for the crank pulleys and water pump)

From there I can mark up exactly where the engine can sit in its maximum forward position and work back from there. The box actually only needs about 4" more clearance so you can get the hand brake drum off easily.....so basically I'll shove the engine and box back as far as I can if theres any leftover space, but the further forward I can get away with putting it the better the rear prop shaft angle



 

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One thing is for damn sure. You are a glutton for punishment. I would not have a Rover up my ass. So, to each his own. I thought those things were aluminum? Shows what I know.

Closest thing to "Brit" is when my Gramps came home on my 14th birthday (he was a widower then) with a 54 Jag XK120 which he'd just bought for ELEVEN HUNDRED dollars. This was June, 1962. He kept it, drove it a bit, and mostly stored. Dad bought it from Gramps later on, and had it painted, but not restored. HE drove it a bit more. Managed to dent on front fender. Dad died at only 71, in 95. Mom sold the thing for 18K

This is Mom and the Jag not long after Dad bought it from Gramps, before it was painted. It was originally white, this is not the original paint

 

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Discussion Starter #9
One thing is for damn sure. You are a glutton for punishment. I would not have a Rover up my ass. So, to each his own. I thought those things were aluminum? Shows what I know.

Closest thing to "Brit" is when my Gramps came home on my 14th birthday (he was a widower then) with a 54 Jag XK120 which he'd just bought for ELEVEN HUNDRED dollars. This was June, 1962. He kept it, drove it a bit, and mostly stored. Dad bought it from Gramps later on, and had it painted, but not restored. HE drove it a bit more. Managed to dent on front fender. Dad died at only 71, in 95. Mom sold the thing for 18K

This is Mom and the Jag not long after Dad bought it from Gramps, before it was painted. It was originally white, this is not the original paint


Oh yeah I'm a moron and I know it.....

You're kinda right, its an aluminium body with a steel bulkhead and chassis. Very early ones (like 48-53 I think) had an aluminium bulkhead and front panel (the bit I've had to repair) but as ally became less cost effective they changed


Thats a lovely jag though! Worth a fortune now, I'd happily drive one if I could. I like cars with a danger factor.....so for me, this wins on the fact it has no doors and no seatbelts
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Seat box out and some measurements taken.

LT77 = 31 1/2" long, front drive flange 11" back from bellhousing lip

The space between engine and central crossmember is 32"

Pushing the engine forward 3 3/4" should allow enough space to take off the handbrake drum, if not a disc setup can be used

Wide angle UJs will solve the short ish rear prop issue

Amazingly my rough bastard engine mounts for mock up both lined up perfectly....s'aaaall good so far






















 

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Discussion Starter #12
About the most sunlight the series has seen in years.....removed the tarps and shoved it into a new position to work on. Much nicer now its not facing down a hill

Also turns out the new LT77 isn't in too bad a condition underneath the shitload of grime but its definitely not a one man lift like I thought it was....LT76 no problem as I lifted that out easily, but this must have another 50kg on the series box!

But progress is being made, I've now got the lovely job of tig welding the ally mounts tomorrow seeing as I've measured and cut the plates to brace them....definitely my least favourite metal to weld
























 

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Discussion Starter #13
Welded up the chassis mounts and engine side mounts today, not the nicest job crouching between chassis rails.....but can you guess which side I fucked up the measurements on?


No pics of the ally bits because they really do look like shit! They're melted together but fuck they're ugly, they're like the Hilary Clinton of welds, fat, ugly and not fit for the light of day

















 

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Discussion Starter #14
And with a bit of help from the death wheel the LT77 fits. There's even enough room to get the transfer case in and out

The chassis gearbox mounts nearly line up too!












 

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Discussion Starter #15
If I fits I sits! Might be a tight squeeze but it's in the series and ready for a top end rebuild now ��
Just wish I wasn't working on a fucking gravel hill.....

Got the fat crack in the bellhousing welded up by a friend too. Landrover aluminium quality is absolutely wank.

















 

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Discussion Starter #17
Engines in and built back up. Just need to add plugs, leads, fuel and it should be good for a test























Got the gearbox and transfercase in, just need to make up some mounts for it










 

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Discussion Starter #18
Modified a crank pulley earlier, can see the amount of space this will give back when installed.


The engine will only run an alternator, the water pump is being replaced with an electric one so I'll fabricate a blanking plate with -16 fittings on it



 

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Discussion Starter #19
Minor injury today.......the nice A&E nurse says I'm not allowed to get it wet, get oil on it or lift anything heavy to make sure it stays sealed up.....no more progress this week then :((


Rather annoyed considering it happened due to excessive health and safety......had I not been made to use a fucking clamp to hold what I was cutting and done it the normal way like I would at home, this wouldn't have happened!





 

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Discussion Starter #20
How do you make sure a blanking plate fits? Butcher the piece it's replacing for a template.

So an AN-16 fitting welded to the front of it, plus hose is still shorter than the old pump. That frees up space for a deeper rad. Then on the crank pulley....losing the pump drive gains about 2.5" back and saves paying out the arse for a P6 set up, that would be around £280! EWP cost me £110 and by the time I've bought AN-16 hoses I'll be around the £160 mark, much more palatable





















 
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